Re resetting the ecu, I didn't really reset it other than taking out the battery during fitting for the extra space.
Maybe go to a syd coffee meet and try to get a ride in a car with CAI and also asking ppl to ride in your car.
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Re resetting the ecu, I didn't really reset it other than taking out the battery during fitting for the extra space.
Maybe go to a syd coffee meet and try to get a ride in a car with CAI and also asking ppl to ride in your car.
I will top up my oil for tomorrow, and i might look in to getting some of those ducts to throw some extra air that way from the grill or around.
Return updates tomorrow!
just came up this question in my mind, does the k20a from fd2r able to bolt on our cars???
Im assuming they would. Same engineQuote:
Originally Posted by ITRDC2
i'd think so too but given the cost, i'd rather spend the $$ on other things which has better cost/benefit.
just a question,
have any of you guys installed a s2000 push to start button?
does it fit for our cars? is it same as DC5R push to start button?
thank you philip... you the man!
no worries mate.
there are tons of info on the UK forums. good to pay them a visit.
how did you go? any update?Quote:
Originally Posted by GEG
Half update for now lol
so the car drove fine, was going to recheck the piping, and top up oil as discussed.
come morning time, i topped up the oil, let it sit, then took it out for the day.
from the very first take off, something felt funny. the clutch was slipping, and was unable to hold the acceleration through the band. the engine revs as normal, but that is not converting in to power, the car is very slowly creeping forward.
so i am not able to even overtake, because i cant generate the speed on the moment - without maxing out the revs just to get to 60..
what bothers me is that it literally happened overnight, with no changes in anything else.
last night i took it all apart, checked the vacuum hoses, and the seals around the silicon bend pipe - all good. put it back together from scratch just incase.
same thing today, no change. i am going to take it down to a mechanic to have a check at 3pm today. i refuse to believe that the clutch is on the way out, it was perfect until the night before, with no changes. the gear box is super strong, as always - so not the issue.
has it fallen out of alignment? i have no idea what happened. but it smells like clutch no matter where i go.
help!!
i think there is more issue than just the CAI alone........
yeh seems to be, any idea what? it was 100% the night before, and then wouldnt take off in the morning? i just want to have an idea of what to ask or know about when i go to get the mechanic to take a look
did you undo something you shouldn't? the gearbox/clutch are around that area of the engine bay.......
nothing else was taken off .. but i did lose a small sized socket into the depths, remember...
dremeled the plastic off, put on the pipe, lost a socket, topped up oil
that's the step by step of the changes!
so, clutch is gone.
booked it in for tuesday, FML
what clutch are u getting?
oem it seems
unless you have a recommendation? nothing heavy duty. nothing that cant be daily-ed. nothing [expensive]
man i cant stand the smell, it's off the road as soon as i get home from work.
That's sad to hear! Clutch dies out of nowhere.. Really strange, you sure you didn't severly burnt te clutch the night before?
One thing I'm scared of is clutch dieing!
I heard exedy organic clutch is quite good, not very heavy and a little heavy then stock, have a look into it!
definitely not burning the clutch, i guess it was just on the way out, but sucks about the cost of it all!!
exedy sports organic is the popular choice, says indy for IS motor racing
im going to get him to do it, he says that during the taking off of a bolt, there is a chance of the vibration breaking an o2 sensor, which not many mechanics know. so, i am going to go to him instead of the local guy, just incase. i dont want to risk the future problems.
excedy organice the way to go, looking at 500-600, get ur flywheel machine and ur sweet, it should rev much smoother aswell after the machine
indy said he includes the machining, which the local mechanic did not mention doing. also, fluid change, and the clutch + labour, for about 1200-1300
i guess the experience costs a bit on top, but everyone quoted about 6 hours as they also need to drop the cross member i think, so similar prices all round
Finally they are on the car....
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._1863328_n.jpg
looks good man, whats the specs, im still in the market for a set of wheels but havent found anything i like atm yet
looking nice man.....how much did that set you back? im thinking of getting te37 or ce28 in matt black.
Mugen_B16B arnt you selling your ep3?
hey thx, they are 17/8J/+38, tyres are imported Dunlop Z1 225/45/17R
hey thx too, total cost including the tyres & rays nuts is about 3.2k i guess.
Can you take a pic of the offset please? I want to see how it sits.
Nice Kelven I saw your rims today at seeker.. Made me want them.. Hehe
well gram lights isnt that bad, but u seriously need some new tyres......
lollllllllllll my engine blew.. time for k24 bottom end :):):):)
How did that happen?Quote:
Originally Posted by typeRr
What the ? What were u doing ?
lol wuh.... if i blew my engine id be bloody pissed.Quote:
Originally Posted by typeRr
Shit must be thrashing ur car extremely hard
story please.Quote:
Originally Posted by typeRr
Hell noooo...!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by ITRDC2
WTHell is wrong with you...you can't rattle gun aluminium nuts...unless they're not...theny carry on
Referring to the pic btw.
i went to reverse and boom, laters
anyone know anyone selling a fresh k24 block? hook me up please, got quoted 3k for one thats done less than 6000kms
I was just trying to show the offset to the other member,and that was my machanic doing the job and they are rays nuts,so assume it will be all right,but anyone can correct me if I'm wrong,thanksQuote:
Originally Posted by jbird
wtf :| ?
WTF of my saying?or?Quote:
Originally Posted by SuperSteve
Yeah I wasn't complaining about the photo, I like CE28N's.Quote:
Originally Posted by ITRDC2
Just because they are Rays nuts doesn't mean they won't get stripped. Aluminium no matter what grade T6/cold forged whatever is 'soft' compared to proper steel nuts and strip a lot easier.
Sorry I should have been more clear. What I'm saying is it isn't a flat out "no you can't use a rattle gun" - if it's set to the lowest level of torque it should be 'ok' and your mechanic finished tightening them with a torque wrench set to the correct specs. If this procedure was followed then yeah.
If it's done too tight, the nuts might fuse onto the studs or become stripped
nope was meant for the, went to reverse then boom msg.Quote:
Originally Posted by ITRDC2
Hey guys anyone running on tein flex if so what settings are you guys running on in terms of clicks ( eg, 10clicks counter clockwise for rear)? cause right now my teins are sooo stiff a small bump on the ground feels like i ran over a cow. also noob questions do i need the car jacked up to change the 'clicks' or cna i just pop the hood and change that top bolt with a spanner or watever for the front settings
yeh some shit mechanic snapped my lightweight alum locknut in half.....i bet he was on full throttle with the rattlegun lol.....
http://img260.imageshack.us/img260/2...to0016a.th.jpg
what nuts are they??
clicks are very personal, start from the middle and play around till you are happy.Quote:
Originally Posted by k0e1
No need to jack car to adjust, just pop the bonnet and hatch.
not sure lol. but theyre the ones that Shift Performance sells. it says 'shadow' on them.Quote:
Originally Posted by ITRDC2
http://www.shiftperformance.com.au/p...me=Accessories
I hate mechanics who use rattle gun to undo aftermarket lock nuts. They should overcome their laziness.
hey guys for the tein flex the front suspension wont click at all any particular reason for this? even with the key it wont turn left or right. please not let it be bad news. the rear ones were fine. also there is a bit of oil on the damper. is it time for repair or something?
my clutch is getting fitted end of this week, going to throw in a service while im there. excited already to have her rolling again!
has anyone here fitted a harness bar to their cars? ive found one from NRG that seems to be a good one
http://www.funkypower.co.uk/catalogu...d_product=5288
im trying to find out if i need to cut anything to make it fit - which i dont want to do
http://www.funkypower.co.uk/images/I...0bar_small.jpg
u shouldnt need to cut nothin, its fit onto the b pillar
imo waste of money, u lose the easy access to the back seats, vision in the rear mirrors
You shouldn't be using a harness without a HANS device or you will suffer major, life time damaging whip lash or death in the event of an accident.Quote:
Originally Posted by GEG
That harness bar doesn't look strong enough. Yeah it will hold your harness but will it stop you from flying out of your seat.
Waste of money
careful ep3 boys
"doma" has a thing for ep3's, best if he doesn't find this thread :)
i don't get it
some newbie going around talking crap bout ep3s and honda's in general
Haha yeh, because FN2R's are way better, with the LSD of course.
Lol......
lol wtf.
anyway anyone in need of a mugen grille i really wanna get it off my desk LOL
dont think he would be able to find this thread anyway since its been sticky haha
hahaha doma, wat a joke lol
yeah we drive pregnant Jazz and proud of it lol.
lol stay alert but not alarmed bru'zQuote:
Originally Posted by burak213
Indeed we do =)Quote:
Originally Posted by Philip Lee
whats that mean ?Quote:
Originally Posted by iQQ
can anyone figure out whether the seats from fd2r can fit on our stock rails?
Hey guys, what brake pads u got on ur cars? Hanny's Performance refused to use bendix or any other brand because it would damage the brakes, so they only offering OEM which is exxy. Any suggestions?
i use Endless NS97 and they are quite good for street use.
very low dust and doesn't seem to chew rotor too. Much better than the stock pad i had before.
Fd2r seats fit our ep3 rails. I tried them last time
actually it was fn2r seats but I think fn2 and fd2 are same..
U going to get fd2r seats kelven?
not the same as FN2 seats have airbags and FD2R don't. but i'd guess they're fairly similar with mounting.Quote:
Originally Posted by mtonep3
ohhh good...u want it too?i just need one....on driver side...Quote:
Originally Posted by mtonep3
Not for me.. I prefer to get bride! :)
I will get this over a bride;)Quote:
Originally Posted by ITRDC2
http://page13.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/r65484075
alrighty! time for an update!
let me prefix this by saying i just went to watch iron man 2, and it was freakin sweet!
SO: got the car back today, after a week off the road. for those of you playing at home, here's what i had done -
Flush all the pipes
Engine oil change (fully synthetic)
Gearbox fluid change
Brake fluid change
x4 Platinum spark plugs
Flywheel machined
Exedy Sports Organic Clutch installed
straight out of the workshop, i realised the change an "OEM type" clutch can make. the friction point is quite low, much lower than the stock, which i find unusual, because i have lost my sense of timing! going to have to relearn that. and also - it is much harder to push down on! the two points combined mean for a lot of jerk while shifting. trying to keep shifts lower than 3k, which is fine really, as it's keeping me focused on the clutch work.
the exedy site reads 1000km bedding in time, so i suppose no overtaking, and it will be interesting to test how far my fuel can really go!
after a nice drive home, i decided to just put it in gear, and do a short run, without changing gears so i didnt touch the clutch, and then letting it slow itself down. nothing hard, just a slow build from 3-5, 5-6, down, and up again.
HELLO FUJITA.
i dont know where it was before, but let me tell you, it is a very very nice sound!!! rolling up the revs, i heard for the first time an urging rumble, which i never got in my short ram. with the short ram, only the cross over was noticeable, however the massive sound difference meant there was an uneven torque curve i believe.
tonight, as soon as i had it running at a nice range, it was just purring all the way through, and it sounded really really nice, matched with my fujitsubo exhaust! as it reached 5k, i could feel the cold air rushing in, which is hard to explain, but if you have run with a short ram and hot air before, you can just sense the ease with which it was rolling. the echoing was rumbling all around, from the front, and straight out the muffler. i did a bit of a changeover, and yep - it is all there and working! a tad softer than short ram, but the build up was less forced, and much more zippy!
so the changes i have noticed:
stock box:
no induction sound
crossover sounds like a whisper
short ram:
defect in the making
induction sound only just before hitting vtec zone
great crossover sound
serious heatsoak on warm days
fujita cold air intake:
stealth piping so it cant be seen
induction sound throughout the low range as well
can feel the cold air difference, i am going to get some extra feeds towards the filter to help too
great crossover sound that stays strong
so it was a big day - last week i left being a little disappointed. it seems everything has come together now, and i am thrilled. all i was thinking was - so glad i chose an ep3! loving it!
stay tuned, i am trying to organise some fun for my wheels for next week ;)
yippeeeeeeeeeeeeee!
Did IS do all the work for ya?
Sweet, follow the procedure with bedding the clutch in and it should last you nicely.
How good must your brakes feel aye
p.s I think Way wants to paint his wheels too :)
Sweet just got an EP3~ Shweett
stepped in warmed the car up and VTEC yo!
It does have a bit of torque steer though, so will be looking at getting an alignment at heasmans to see if that helps.