nah the coil is in the dizzy u just replace the dizzy with external one
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nah the coil is in the dizzy u just replace the dizzy with external one
Anyone done a brake up grade on a DA9? I'm starting to run out of brakes in the hills (back of glorious in particular) and I've got a pretty spongy pedal. I've bleed the brakes and replaced the fluid with dot4, with very little improvement.
Next I was planning on swapping the pads out and getting the rotors machined, but I'm not sure if I should just put something bigger on. How adequate is the stock Da gear with a decent set of pads and braided lines? I don't want to blow money fixing up the stock setup to find that I'm still losing the pedal regularly on the downhill runs.
If anyone tracks their DA I'd like to hear your opinion.
EDIT: I'm running 15's and I don't want to go bigger
I have changed to Type R discs and calipers (282mm) and Type R booster and master cylinder, it makes a massive difference in braking, i can brake really late, and the discs are slotted (redrilled to 4x100) its the best upgrade i have done, will try and find some pikkysQuote:
Originally Posted by gumbs
Oh, 2 things, you will need to get your brake lines from the master cylinder to proportioning valve flared, the Type r uses different ends. You will also need to change the plug on the fluid level switch, easy way i found was go to a wreckers and get the plug and wiring from one of the horns, its the same connection, and wreckers gave me free! (and looks factory)
I'm assuming off a DC2R? Can you still run them under 15's? How much did it set you back?
Yeah, off a DC2R, i got whole hub/bearing assembly etc, bolt in, easy as.Quote:
Originally Posted by gumbs
The brakes cost $500 from someone here of Ozhonda, flaring cost $20, brake booster and master cylinder from a Japanese Type R cost $50 (friends runs importing company) and brake fluid.
This really transformed my car, I can outbrake a lot of other cars and no fading, so i would say this is a bang-for-buck mod. Now i want to get a pair of re-drilled type R rears to match :) maybe just wait and get a 5 stud conversion, then will sell my current setup.
Changing the booster is a pain, you have to get at 4 bolts up under the dash, usually lying on your back, half in and out of the car, lots of swearing involved...
Keep an eye on the for-sale thread, sets come up all the time
cheers, Tseesinn
Thanks, I'll do some more research into it. Its good to know there's a reasonably cheap and easy upgrade.
y not just get ek brakes there still 4 stud.... coz they bigger then eg but i duno how much diff they r from da
i m actually thinking of going back to 4 studs..LOL
do it
Don't waste your money on larger disks/calipers until you try better pads.
I run stock sized discs with good fluid and good pads and at Wakefield Park last year the brakes were as strong first lap as they were 5th lap. I have a dodgey master cylinder and did a poor job bleeding, and they were strong the whole day with zero fade.
Or spend 4x as much on a stock Type-R setup and still need to buy new pads anyway! Like tires, you can increase the size all you want but if it's a crappy compound, you'll have no grip. That said there are obvious advantages to a 1" master cylinder; but "improving" brake "feel" doesn't make you any faster.
arnt they 262mm rotors? unless you got some whacky brake setup, your stock rotors are 262mm. they eg's are 240. eg and crx guys in the states use our (da9) brakes to upgrade their brakes.Quote:
Originally Posted by A-man
string is onto something though. get good pads first, you'll see a massive difference. If your braking needs will overpower a good set of pads then you probly should know all of the above ! :cool:
Ez
u upgrade eg brakes because of the drums on the bak