Anthony : 1987 Accord Aerodeck LXR-S

Check the valve cover gasket along it's front edge, oil will run down onto the exhaust manifold from there. On your engine there will be a TDC sensor bolted on in front of the distributor. Both of those can leak ("O" rings) but normally will run down the end of the engine, not so much onto the exhaust. Probably have to remove the valve cover and if the gasket doesn't break or have splits/cracks in it, you will have to clean it and the head where it contacts, of oil/old sealant and reseal with gasket silicone. Getting a new gasket for that engine may be hard. There are also 4 flat gaskets that seal the spark plug tubes that will need looking at as well and resealing.

The sensor you mentioned is a O2 (oxygen) sensor and IIRC it passes through a hole in the heat shield and is virtually impossible to get a spanner or deep socket on without removing the manifold itself, which just increases the difficulty of loosening it because being off the engine, there's nothing to lever against.

Just to relieve your mind, the oil leak isn't behind there, it'll be from above (as said above)

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Originally Posted by hondapop

Check the valve cover gasket along it's front edge, oil will run down onto the exhaust manifold from there. On your engine there will be a TDC sensor bolted on in front of the distributor. Both of those can leak ("O" rings) but normally will run down the end of the engine, not so much onto the exhaust. Probably have to remove the valve cover and if the gasket doesn't break or have splits/cracks in it, you will have to clean it and the head where it contacts, of oil/old sealant and reseal with gasket silicone. Getting a new gasket for that engine may be hard. There are also 4 flat gaskets that seal the spark plug tubes that will need looking at as well and resealing.

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by hondapop

The sensor you mentioned is a O2 (oxygen) sensor and IIRC it passes through a hole in the heat shield and is virtually impossible to get a spanner or deep socket on without removing the manifold itself, which just increases the difficulty of loosening it because being off the engine, there's nothing to lever against.

Just to relieve your mind, the oil leak isn't behind there, it'll be from above (as said above)

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Thanks for the info. I have removed the valve cover before to try and get a new gasket for the valve cover and new seals for the spark plug tubes. I took it to a Honda dealer and even managed to find an Aerodeck parts book which gave them the part number. They did a nationwide search as well as sending the number back to their head office in Japan but the search returned nothing. So I used some sealant on the gasket and had to reuse the gasket unfortunately.

Thanks for the info on the sensor. I should have taken a video of the smoke yesterday and where it was coming from - my mistake. It definitely looked like it was originating from behind the shield. It's a shame I can't even get behind there to have a look just to satisfy my curiosity.
I do see moisture built up on the passenger side of the engine (I guess you'd say it's below/near the cams).

I'll see if I can't play around with it tonight. The sensor has a cord attached to it and you're right about the angle. It's a complete bitch however I'll give it a go with an open-ended spanner. I was just unsure as to whether it came out like that.

Honestly thanks again for the info. Engines are a bit foreign to me and I haven't really had any experience playing around with them before. This dual carby setup looks like a nightmare compared to the F22B1 I have in my other Accord too !

There is definitely nowhere behind the manifold for oil to leak from, it will be coming from that cam-cover gasket, running down onto the manifold itself while the engine is standing, then creating smoke when you start up and it gets hot. The only thing you can do is use sealer, but, you'll need to wash every bit of old oil off it and the head surface for it to stick and reseal. I'm also guessing that the gasket has cracks and breaks in it. This is where it can get tricky. It's probably hardened and will break if you try to prise it out, but that may be your only recourse. You would then have to clean out the groove it fits into and the gasket itself of oil, then put sealer into the groove and press the gasket pieces back in, making sure the sealer gets between the broken ends. Then reapply the sealer to both faces before replacing the cover, gon'na be a bit messy.

I wouldn't try to get that sensor out without removing the engine or the radiator etc, because at this age and length of time it'll be stuck real tight. Haven't had any experience with the dual carb setups on these, but the dual choke single setups had an absolute plethora of small hoses (21 IIRC) and pipes attached for the anti-pollution system. PGM-FI is much simpler in that regard, although the type fitted back in the mid '80's had a lot also because they still used vacuum controls.

A thought occurred to me Anthony, the B18A, B20A shared the same basic "architecture" as the B20A6 in the '88-91 B4 AUDM Preludes. It's gasket/s may fit. The engines aren't able to be interchanged because of external differences in alternator etc mountings.

As a last resort, try the B18A1 gasket. The cover is the same style, worth a try.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by hondapop

There is definitely nowhere behind the manifold for oil to leak from, it will be coming from that cam-cover gasket, running down onto the manifold itself while the engine is standing, then creating smoke when you start up and it gets hot. The only thing you can do is use sealer, but, you'll need to wash every bit of old oil off it and the head surface for it to stick and reseal. I'm also guessing that the gasket has cracks and breaks in it. This is where it can get tricky. It's probably hardened and will break if you try to prise it out, but that may be your only recourse. You would then have to clean out the groove it fits into and the gasket itself of oil, then put sealer into the groove and press the gasket pieces back in, making sure the sealer gets between the broken ends. Then reapply the sealer to both faces before replacing the cover, gon'na be a bit messy.

I wouldn't try to get that sensor out without removing the engine or the radiator etc, because at this age and length of time it'll be stuck real tight. Haven't had any experience with the dual carb setups on these, but the dual choke single setups had an absolute plethora of small hoses (21 IIRC) and pipes attached for the anti-pollution system. PGM-FI is much simpler in that regard, although the type fitted back in the mid '80's had a lot also because they still used vacuum controls.

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by hondapop

A thought occurred to me Anthony, the B18A, B20A shared the same basic "architecture" as the B20A6 in the '88-91 B4 AUDM Preludes. It's gasket/s may fit. The engines aren't able to be interchanged because of external differences in alternator etc mountings.

As a last resort, try the B18A1 gasket. The cover is the same style, worth a try.

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Thanks for the info once again. I'll let you know how it goes after work.
I've forgotten the layout of the B18A gasket but the B20A6 and B18A1 are good places to start. I'll see if I can't find one at a local shop (Repco, Autobahn, SCA, etc) as the ones online may take too long to arrive. Unfortunately for inspections they require down payment before you book... ugh. I wanted to book today but don't want arrive and have the car smelling like burnt oil and smoke seeping from the bonnet. Hmm... tough decision but I might get through the weekend and book on Monday. It's probably the safer option at this point as inspections are (or at least last time I went) $180.

Here are a couple HD photos I promised the other day. The Aero looks beautiful. I'm excited to start driving it daily and modifying it heavily.

http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f1...psrvavucdk.png

http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f1...psjqahnd2v.png

Quote:

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Originally Posted by hondapop

A thought occurred to me Anthony, the B18A, B20A shared the same basic "architecture" as the B20A6 in the '88-91 B4 AUDM Preludes. It's gasket/s may fit. The engines aren't able to be interchanged because of external differences in alternator etc mountings.

As a last resort, try the B18A1 gasket. The cover is the same style, worth a try.

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So. You sir, are a lifesaver :D
I bought a B20A6 gasket (which - thankfully came with the spark plug tube seals also!) and it's a direct match !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f1...ps9jvxwaju.jpg

The previous one (pictured above with the GreyMaxx on it above the rocker cover) was hard, and tough, and stale. The new one slotted right in, was soft and awesome ! I put a thick bead of GreyMaxx on there - just to be safe.

... embarrassingly when I was undoing the bolts for the cover I found one (which coincidentally was the bolt above the cam gears - ie, where the leak was) that was almost completely loose. -.-" Major facepalm!!
I had a look through the cams and saw a lot of fresh oil that had run out of the rocker cover and down the block. I'm about 99.5% confident that was my issue. However changing over the gasket and seals was a good thing to do tonight anyway. There's a small oil build up in the spark plug tubes but I'm sure it'll burn off and there won't be anymore deposits now that I have new seals.

I'm so confident I'll book regency tomorrow for Friday. I hate how I have to pay for the inspection over the phone straight up -.- wish I could pay there.

Anyway, I also got some Sika and perma-glued down the back hatch trim. Left it over night with some weights on there and it seems good today. Woohooo ! The last two weeks with this car have been so lucky and so easy. I'm kinda worried.






More updates to come !
Thanks again hondapop ! You are the best !

Edit: You must spread some Reputation around before giving it to hondapop again

Woohoo man good work
Whered you get the new gasket from?
Noob thing to do to leave the bolts loose :P
Good luck with regency tomorrow
Imsure itll all go well!!!

That's very good news. Now take your plugs out and get some paper towel or cloth, twist/roll it up so you can get it down the plug tubes and give them a wipe out. clean the oil off the plugs or get some new ones, probably needs some anyway. Oil down the tubes, sitting around the plugs will continually vaporise and could cause mis-firing. Wash the ends of the plug connectors with petrol or turps to get rid of oil contamination as well, let them dry thoroughly before reconnecting.

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Originally Posted by Jasemas

Woohoo man good work
Whered you get the new gasket from?
Noob thing to do to leave the bolts loose :P
Good luck with regency tomorrow
Imsure itll all go well!!!

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Where else would I get it from ? :P Repcoooooo
Regency is not tomorrow. I tried to book it today for Friday but unfortunately they said it's " first come first serve ". ugh, so if it's busy I may not even get inspected (which means I'll be waiting $56). They also said they dunno what the car requires until I get down there. They couldn't tell me whether it would be an ID check, full inspection... anything. UGHHHH. Typical SA govt. bullshit.

I've taken Friday off work so I'll definitely be going down. I'm going to organise the day pass tonight / tomorrow / thursday night so I can just get up early and go!
Thanks for the confidence. The car really isn't that bad. I'll do some final cleanliness stuff tonight (wipe off all the oil, ensure all bolts and screws are in their correct places, etc) and then it's in fates hands ! How excitingly scary !

Quote:

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Originally Posted by hondapop

That's very good news. Now take your plugs out and get some paper towel or cloth, twist/roll it up so you can get it down the plug tubes and give them a wipe out. clean the oil off the plugs or get some new ones, probably needs some anyway. Oil down the tubes, sitting around the plugs will continually vaporise and could cause mis-firing. Wash the ends of the plug connectors with petrol or turps to get rid of oil contamination as well, let them dry thoroughly before reconnecting.

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Okay, I'll do that tonight. The oil won't just burn up on its own ?
TY again ! You've been a troubleshooting GOD

The oil in the plug tubes eventually will reduce down to a tar like substance, but you don't want that coating everything.