Quote:
Control arm shim-caster adj
1 / 2 / Shim adjust +1 to +6 deg range / Honda Caster Kit / HONDA CASTER KIT
Code: #KCA301
Price: AU$43.91 (Australian Dollars)
NOTE: Australian deliveries must add 10% GST
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Quote:
Control arm shim-caster adj
1 / 2 / Shim adjust +1 to +6 deg range / Honda Caster Kit / HONDA CASTER KIT
Code: #KCA301
Price: AU$43.91 (Australian Dollars)
NOTE: Australian deliveries must add 10% GST
seems to me that the Whiteline webstore it is representing that it is upto +6 degrees castor...
i would like to know, as it seems quite an adventurous claim for only few washers and a new set of bolts to achieve...
factory stock for DC2 = 1'10" +/- 1'
I'm thinking we should make a new thread tinks......but when I read this it said:
However after getting my kit fitted......I didn't have even 3 degrees of positive caster.........so I was a bit shocked.Quote:
The red car has a massive 5 degrees of positive caster.........
Hi Everyone,
tinkerbell,
Yes, Bigger sway bars allow to use softer springs, relatively. What are the ideal spring rates for your car??? Don't know. Don't know enough about your car. But, you can use our Civic EK Group'4 spring rates of 6kg/mm front and 4kg/mm rear with 27mm front and 22mm adjustable rear sway bars... etc... as a base line.
KCA301 - caster kit, adds up to +2.5 degrees of extra caster.
(description in our webstore is being changed)
Regards,
Wojtek.
Whiteline Automotive.
If you use soft springs u have a greater reliability on the sway bar?Quote:
Originally Posted by Whiteline
Then you will get subframe tear outs..
I've been running stock shocks/springs with upgraded front and rear swaybars for around 2-3 years now and have tracked the car. No problems yet (touch wood).Quote:
Originally Posted by BlitZ
oh hey... it looks like we have a whiteline rep. in here....
have you got it on the hardest setting?Quote:
Originally Posted by wynode
what is your laptime around wakie?.......I think issues arise when you start pushing hard.
Quote:
Originally Posted by MKI4EVA
Yeah hardest setting. I've been on stock springs uptill a month or so ago when I swapped to DC2R springs (slightly stiffer than stock). Apart from that everything else is stock, sussy wise. First time on wakefield was 1:21.6x on street tyres.
Someone trying to say I don't push it hard enough?Quote:
Originally Posted by MKI4EVA
Hey Wojtek,Quote:
Originally Posted by Whiteline
I've been on:
+++++++++++++++++
Eibach - 9kg/6kg progressive + Bilstein (they say groupA) - valving unknown. It was a 41mm piston from memory
Nice weight transfer, bit to much roll but was quite uncomfortable on the road.
- Not sure on tyre Temp, but found about a 6psi difference after a couple of laps. Street tyres - mainly RE71's
Ride heights were about a 15mm drop F and 20mm R
I must say braking felt good with this set up, felt like I was getting the right amount of "dip". Sometimes some rear wheel lift in cornering as well.
Zeal S6 - 12kg/8kg Aluminium coil over - valving unknown but adjustable.
I think this rate is just about perfect on a DC2 road/track - quite comfortable still (I think my kidneys can handle more than most) and good feel on street tyres.
Found it soft when I moved from a Street tyre to a Dunlop DJ01 - psi difference of 4-5, but biased as sometimes i didn't push that hard due to tyre scrub against the guards
Setting was 610mm F to wheel arch 610mm F
Current - Showa steel bodied coil over - straight spring - adjustable bump
14kg/12kg
Valving
0.01m/sec F 15.3／-17.6kgf R 10.8-11.7kgf
0.02 36.5-32.0 21.4-17.4
0.03 62.3-46.1 36.9-21.7
OEM sway's
I have found these feeling more comfortable than the bilsteins on the street. On the track they feel extremely sharp with - had a few comments that guys loved watching the car in the corner - just looked extremely balanced and flat (that made me happy :D )
The main difference is, I feel that I'd pay for it more if I made an error - more likely to break traction or get a "pushing" feel rather than turning.
I've since adjusted the rake to be more "level" between F & R and find this alot better.
F toe out about 4mm and R - 0 toe - keeps it straight under brakes and turn in is crisp! (have tried toe out R, toe in F and R - but prefer the current configuration)
Cornering feels extremely stable and controlled, with a better "drift" which can be adjusted with driving (turn in slightly earlier) - I'd almost say more predictable.
Cornerweight with me in the car (but apparently it made only a 3kg diff).
Tyre's fluctuate about 3-4psi. With the new feel, I hope I'll pick up an extra second or two!! :D - but I'm definately loving this set on Dunlop DZ02.
Heights:
605mmF 600mm R
Now
595mmF 590mmR
(free data!)
Rake = 10mm lower at the F (measured at to chassis)
Right now I'd say the natural camber from lowering a double wishbone is having good effects!!
(by the way, I'm no pro, I just like collecting and analysing my own data :D))
The next set - I would like to try a set of Koni 3811 and adjust the sussy through testing. Think that would be fun! haha
euGeR,
Thanks for your data so far. In order for me to make some sence, could you please provide shock valving graphs, tyre temperatures, ride heights (absolute ride height, measured from centre of wheel to guard), full wheel alignment settings at the very least.
Eitherway...
I understand that you have not fitted uprated sway bars with any of your suspension kits. Can I ask for your reasons for not using bigger sway bars?
We have tried to explain the benefits of using bigger sway bars here and in other threads and forums, but it seems the information is not being acknowledged.
Could you explain the reasons for not using bigger sway bars please?
Component failure is not a unique problem to a Honda. Other cars break mounts, brackets, links, etc... as well. We provide solutions where required.
Regards,
Wojtek.
Whiteline Automotive