^ thats the thing you "hear nasty whispers"
Ever thought about actually going in person to talk and see the workshop 1 on 1
1 Melb workshop who deals with CRX's and b20's in actually is ModProject...which incl Tuning.
Frankeneilstein” DC2
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^ thats the thing you "hear nasty whispers"
Ever thought about actually going in person to talk and see the workshop 1 on 1
1 Melb workshop who deals with CRX's and b20's in actually is ModProject...which incl Tuning.
Frankeneilstein” DC2
Yes I have, and done both (go in, and talk!). I really wanted James to tune my car at RevZone, but unfortunately he's no longer doing work there now - Craig has taken over doing the Hondas.
But I guess if I can communicate verbally with a person and see that they do in fact have a workshop to work at...then according to you they must be a competent tuner?
Snoop, I really care about my car and who works on it. That's why it's been on the road for all but maybe 14 days since I've owned it, whereas there are people who never made it to a single meet over a solid 5+ year period.
Not entirely sure what your insinuating in the last para.
As for James the Tuner.
U never thought to perhaps find out where James is these days and ask around? Obviously not!
James still tunes just not at RevZone.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Snoop_gee
B20s < K20...and their lack reliability speaks volumes....at the end of the day snoop has done an amazing job and was just trying to guide you...
Quote:
Originally Posted by Snoop_gee
You're wrong, it did occur to me, however I haven't pursued it yet. I can probably get his number when time allows me to see him. I think Jeff has it.
I agree with K20 > B20, but I disagree that snoop is just trying to guide me. IMO he's just coming up with assumptions - assuming that I've never bothered to speak to or visit a tuner but would rather decide on hearsay. Assuming that I've never bothered to consider trying to contact James directly.Quote:
Originally Posted by civicboy84
If he wanted to guide me why wouldn't he just offer to help me get in contact with James, my preferred tuner?
hahah Chris. Your a classic man .:cool:Quote:
Originally Posted by civicboy84
B20's are still alright thou :thumbup:
Andy uve always disagreed from day 1 but thats u i cant help that.
Riiiiiiight lol. Clutching at nothing...
get a room kidz!
tell me if you find one, im in a pickle as well.Quote:
Originally Posted by dougie_504
This mentatilty that B20's arent reliable is kinda getting old, they are reliable aslong as its been built properly. Its not a conversion that can be left un-opened, the engine components obviously need to be taken apart and slapped together, where as a K20 can be un-opened.
A B20VTEC can be reliable as any other motor that has been built together, keeping in mind your not overboring the already thin sleeves, Boosting it to strenuous amounts of psi or revving it above 9000++
OEM power will never be less reliable than a modified engine...........millions on RnD for a reasonQuote:
Originally Posted by GSi_PSi
You could argue that swapping out your OEM pistons/rods etc for forged items might be more reliable because they are stronger. Same goes for valvetrain items like HD valve springs.
I've seen B20VTEC's rev'd to over 10,000RPM, obviously with forgies and sleeves, upgraded valvetrain etc.
Just because a motor can be made to perform in a certain way doesnt mean it can do it continuously. Put a shot of nos on a dihatsu cherade, it'll go fast, once.
^ clearly that's not relevant to the use of a B20VTEC.
They're reliable when done right, and there are lots of examples to see for yourself.
Oh no doubt, nothing is impossible if you have a fat wallet
wats the best head for a b20?im a noob
Do your research tony or pm a few guys who have done many of these
Best head to start off with PR3 B18cR or if you want slightly more comp P72 head (b18c2).
http://www.luxury4play.com/images/l4...ies/gotNOS.gifQuote:
Originally Posted by vtecing
hahah
Thx for the help.ill do more research on it.
B16A head is the cheapest and flows very well, also sounds great on VTEC crossover. You're more likely to find them for sale than B18C heads.
There's one being sold by 'hitoriko' in VIC right now in the Parts section, and I'm sure I saw a B20 block for sale in there somewhere this week.
Have PM'd you links to a head and block for sale.
Hello B20 discussion thread
As some of you have read my EK civic is soon to be a B20 vtec (B20B bottom, B16 head)
Currently im after a Golden eagle 84mm vtec conversion kit and haven't had much luck on the cheaper side of prices finding the cheapest kit at $300 lol
If anyone has some insights as to purchasing one please let me know where it's possible to find a cheaper one.
Also just wanting to know what set ups most people are using. I'm looking for a close to stock set up with slight mods to make the build reliable I.e on my list already is:
ARP HEAD STUD BOLTS
ARP ROD STUD BOLTS
GOLDEN EAGLE CONV KIT 84mm
i wouldn't use a conversion 'kit' if i was trying to save money...
Lol what are you implementing mate that a Conversion kit won't hold up hence spending more money later or just going around it in a different way to get a cheaper alternativeQuote:
Originally Posted by tinkerbell
When you get the head servicedQuote:
Originally Posted by blastnpast
1) Have the dowel holes drilled on the opposite side & re-use the std B20 dowels
2) Use Nippon Gasket Co, Ltd head gasket
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/JDM-CIVIC-B20...item2303c14e01
3) Buy a 1/8 NPT grub screw & fit this to the base of the head (OEM Vtec oil supply)
4) Use M-Factory sandwitch block or similar & make your own oil line
Or use the stepped dowels & the B18C 84~85 gasket
kit is more expensive, cheaper if you buy all parts yourself rather than buying a kit.Quote:
Originally Posted by blastnpast
not saying kit is shit.
Awsome info thank you for clearing that up I will defiantly look into these options :)
i implement my own 'kit' when i build my B20'sQuote:
Originally Posted by blastnpast
1. 1/8bsp - AN6 m/m
2. 3/8bsp - AN6 m/m
3. earls prolite 350 hose
4. cometic B20vtec gasket
5. head ser vice as TODA has said
what about instead of using a sandwich plate to feed oil to the head, feed it from the oil pump?
it "looks" to do the same job, but would it be efficient as would it be cooled or hot oil coming from here?
i want to know because if someone wanted to use an oil cooler with sandwich plate, they wouldnt want to use 2 plates hanging off the block.
here is what i mean...
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3391/...cdffc29d61.jpg
Only down side for using this point as an oil feed (same as pressure switch t-peice) is the oil is unfiltered.
it would affect the performance/maintenance of the motor, would it?
what would you suggest if you wanted to run an oil cooler with the vtec sandwich plate?
any suggestions to this??^^
You're answering your own question,Quote:
Originally Posted by riruiz_88
So what do you want to know?
Bud people have been running the oil cooler and sandwich plate, as long as you have proper gasket to go, i dont see why it should be a problem
here is a pic of a stock b18c oil cooler on a b20vtec + sandwhich plate
http://i717.photobucket.com/albums/w.../backofb20.jpg
im no mechanic so thats why im asking, someone had to right.
i wanted to know if running 2 aftermarket sandwich plates, nothing would fail?
thanks for the above pic
You only need 1... (OEM oil/water heat exchanger + sandwitch block)Quote:
Originally Posted by riruiz_88
If you have an oil cooler sandwith block, you can run the vtec oil supply from this.
Don't stack up sandwitch block on top of sandwitch block, you're asking for trouble.
To use the B16/B18C OEM oil/water heat exchanger you'll need to add a water outlet fitting to the block.
This hole is blank on the B20
interesting.Quote:
Originally Posted by TODA AU
can't wait to get one on a stand and check it out for myself.
Guys sorry if this has been covered, but I have not read all 77 pages.
Can anyone tell me considering the bore is some 3-4mm more than the B16/18, and the head comes from the B16/18, do any modifications need to be made to expand the combustion chamber or using it as is is fine?
confusing question,
that area would be just an extra squish area wouldnt it?
i dont think diameter combustion area on cyl head is exactly the same to cyl bore diameter.
It would alter compression ratio if it was changed however logically it seems that sharp areas around the top of the bore would not be desirable?
I know the usually are not exactly the same as the bore and from looking at a few heads it seems sometimes the combustion area is not even a perfect circle.
I assume this means that the heads are not modified to take this into account?
Isn't that what a cnc Port job does
http://photos.motoiq.com/MotoIQ/Proj.../IMG1204-L.jpg
True, not always a perfect circle. Mine for example are certainly not, having been modified when my head was built. This was done to increase flow/combustion but of course you need to be careful that you don't crease hot-spots and have it done professionally.Quote:
Originally Posted by spetz
no need to get pro.Quote:
Originally Posted by dougie_504
just sit there with a rotary tool & some beer.
needs lots of time and must know where to grind.
lol
Does anyone know where the VTEC changeover point happens, and what rpm peak power is produced roughly with each respective head and standard cams?
ie, B16A, B16B, B18C, B18CR?
are you asking the question based on head only or whole complete stock engine ?Quote:
Originally Posted by spetz
Well on the basis that all things are equal and the same with the only difference being the heads
Keep the chamber at 81mm as std, or better, use a CNC reprofiled chamber, but again keep it at 81.Quote:
Originally Posted by spetz
Going bigger loses quench & compression, so don't go there.
Damn!Quote:
Originally Posted by GSi_PSi
You got a pic of the worlds 1st fully functioning android.
(That way his hands have computer numeric control :p )
lol he could be a robot, nomsayinQuote:
Originally Posted by TODA AU
better ?
http://www.centroidcnc.com/images/cn..._close_300.jpg
maybe by:
http://alpha.akihabaranews.com/wp-co...4/17994//1.jpg
would be an expensive headjob no doubt!
i see what u did there, asimo escorts ftwQuote:
Originally Posted by tinkerbell
either way, to answer spertz - slightly radiusing the edge of around combustion chamber to reduce hotspots would be all you should consider when using a 81mm head on a 84mm bore (unless you are designing the shape of the piston crown yourself...lol)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5bcgVvCqXdY CNC Combustion Chamber Work
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q5tAIWp9qNs CNC Valve and Guide Work
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z3JCioHMcIw How a Newen Contour CNC seat cutter works
lolwut
I see this forum has not changed still full of wankers.
Mmm I seeQuote:
Originally Posted by ALLMTR996
Sent from my HTC Desire using Tapatalk
helpful post.Quote:
Originally Posted by ALLMTR996
plus rep
And yours was helpful to hey along with the clown that posted a song up in a so called technical thread.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bludger
Don't read, don't post. Be 1 less.Quote:
Originally Posted by ALLMTR996
http://weknowmemes.com/wp-content/up...-here-meme.pngQuote:
Originally Posted by ALLMTR996
tool is u...Quote:
Originally Posted by ALLMTR996
Hehehe
Anyone else got any input
about what>?
Revival!
Where the hell can I find 84mm P30 b16 pistons??
Should give a CR of 12.31 and at 1972.87cc, should go alright.
Need moar compression, 9.2 sucks balls.
Massive noob question coming up, I won't slap my valves if I use P30 pistons in a non-vtec head would I?
I tried a quick search and from my understanding it will be fine, but just want to confirm.
What if I port the head and use crower 404's? Will they slap then?
B20vtec new spam thread? What?
b16a pistons wont fit in a B20B - you need the "RS MACHINE" type
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RS-MACHINE...item2c6474b044
you also need a VTEC head.
[[not sure if trolling?]]
just wondering if anyone can confirm about engine mounts? innovative mounts part #10050 (60A) are the right mounts for B20 into a EK4?
3
@pinoy are you needing 2 or 3 post LHS mounts?
2 bolt. the cars a EK4 Vtir
was looking at these actually http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Innovativ...item19cfcdbc5b
Out of curiosity, can a B20A 95mm crank be used + get bore to 86mm pistons to make a 2.2L B series?
yes..
B20Vtec lives ...lolQuote:
Originally Posted by DWU
I have a major build just completed..... For circuit racing only running on high octain race fuel , mild comp 12:86:1 but nothing std internally what so ever. Full race prepared engine to hopefully pump out 175Kw @ wheels but will have to wait for actual dyno figures...
At what kind of rpm?