Takes about 2-3 hours. Are u based in Sydney? Go to Top One or Good Performance Centre, whichever is closest.
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Takes about 2-3 hours. Are u based in Sydney? Go to Top One or Good Performance Centre, whichever is closest.
Unfortunately I'm not, i'll have a talk to my mechanic but yeah 5 hours does seem abit unreasonable for engine mounts.
Would it be really hard to install myself?
Breaker bars and wd40 will be your best friend
Hi,
Part number is 36531-PRB-A01 for the JDM Honda ep3 sensor. Denso has an aftermarket replacement but from what I've heard your fuel economy will suffer as the denso makes it run a LITTLE bit richer. I wouldn't recommend using the AUDM DC5 sensor as it is a different part number and I'm pretty sure it's not a wideband like the JDM ep3 sensor. Also don't cut the wires on the sensor side you are better off extending it on the connector side...TBH you are better off not extending it at all as by extending the wire you are changing the resistance thus making the o2 sensor give an off reading. Just buy the right sensor.
If anyone wants sensors I can get them for around $250-280, if we can do a group buy it will be the lower. That's for a genuine Honda sensor.
Cheers,
I've used the subaru upper engine cleaner and I thought it was the best stuff everr!! ...until I used the wurth system cleaner and realised how much better it was. And yes you get all the carbon deposits flying out of the exhaust and the black smoke and crap. They are both fairly good but like all Wurth Products it is far superior. Made the car more responsive and even felt like it got through the revs a bit smoother. :)
Get in on some good bits EP3 crowd!
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthr...odridge-etc.!!
I believe changing the front and rear are the most annoying ones as it takes time to wiggle the mounts out and wiggle the new back in.
I've got mugen mounts waiting to install. Any reckon it's a better idea to DIY the left and right engine mount and then leave the front and rear to the top-one or any mechanic? I'm estimating this would probably save 25-30% of the labour involved.
Looking to change my brake fluid since i bought some HEL brake lines. Would it be worth going for the Motul RBF (dot 4, around 312 degrees dry boiling point? and super exxy...) or would just normal dot 4 or 5.1 fluid (around 275-280 deg) be enough?
I do alot daily and spirited driving but no track work, would i be seeing those temperatures on say a very long drive or going on twisty mountains?
For some reason my windscreen mist washers have gone whack... only like 20% of the water reaches the windscreen, others just seems to spray the roof and the side of my car... its not clogged or anything