Quote:
Originally Posted by mugen_ctr
Pretty sure I have a mag somewhere of a bloke who has an EG with a B18CR stroked to 2.1L with ITR cams and upgraded valvetrain. Allegedly it chomped a few EVO's.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mugen_ctr
Pretty sure I have a mag somewhere of a bloke who has an EG with a B18CR stroked to 2.1L with ITR cams and upgraded valvetrain. Allegedly it chomped a few EVO's.
Probably would on STD... But the evo with egay Ihe and tune would be about 200kw atw on all 4... Also the traction out of corners ... And the launch at the drags...Quote:
Originally Posted by dougie_504
Yeah, hence I use the word 'allegedly'. I'm sure an EVO would have so much more potential and would be a much better car to build for the track, even an EVO1 (so sexy).
You know the answer is no.Quote:
Originally Posted by fatboyz39
Tis all about the gearing!
Rolled up against a K24 EG and won BUT!! It was a 5spd. If 6spd, no chance.
To a point, you’re right cause for many it is really hard for many to meet a 140kw power target without upping the compression,Quote:
Originally Posted by BlitZ
But in reality, it’s not really that hard at all… & here’s how you do it.
Using an AUDM B18C7 engine as an example, the only things that need to be changed are as follows:
Spec B cams, springs, pulleys / Mugen airbox (A real one, not a copy)
TODA header (Not a copy or cheap substitute) / 60mm ~65mm exhaust system & 100cel metal cat
ECU, fuel pump & fuel pressure regulator
& the key... (This is what gets you over the line) - CNC 5 angle valve job
The angles used are quite different to the std 3 angle (30deg / 45deg / 60deg) seats found in the B.
The benefit is greatly improve flow a low lift values.
This combined with “secret squirrel” to the intake ports is all that need to be done. (Some things are secret :zip:)
+ Obviously a good tune
Done right, you’ll hit 140kw every time
Also for 140 at the wheels with a std bottom end B18C7, what you don’t need to do is:
Port the head / Change the intake manifold / Change the throttle body / Use plastic intake gaskets / Fit wacky earth kits
Slaz just told you, 86mm bore & 95mm stroke which works out to 2207ccQuote:
Originally Posted by mugen_ctr
Maybe ok for drag racing but not ideal for circuit use.
IMO, the best B-series combo by a long way is 85mm bore & 87.2mm stroke – 1979cc
Stock bottom end B18C2 with 140kw...
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthr...ndatory/page46
how much does boring cost generally? do you always check for straightness of deck and measure bore size after boring?Quote:
Originally Posted by TODA AU
Depending on who & how it's done,Quote:
Originally Posted by mocchi
You can spend anywhere from $80 to $450 on a bore & hone for an inline 4cyl engine.
Cheap end is straight bore & hone, upper end is bore & hone with dummy head attached. (Incl plateau hone - 0.0001" tolerance)
Deck check - always...
Measure - always....
Never trust the machine shop, even if you work there :p
every single time you speak adrian it always somehow makes me want to spend money :(
139kw stock bottom end B18C7 dyno sheet added...Quote:
Originally Posted by Alexplicit
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthr...07#post3073407
NB, this was using my previous porting method which worked quite well.
But my new "secrect squirel :zip:" method works better... :thumbsup:
Lock me for trying the new squirel on a basic budget build for my daily, will be in touch soon Adrian! :thumbsup:Quote:
Originally Posted by TODA AU