It would essentially look like a bike tyre, with only the middle making contact and providing tractionQuote:
Originally Posted by viett
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It would essentially look like a bike tyre, with only the middle making contact and providing tractionQuote:
Originally Posted by viett
My current Tyre is 225, i mean would an increase in 20 millimeters cause that much of a drastic effect?Quote:
Originally Posted by uniqlo
Stance Tim LOLQuote:
Originally Posted by Symphorced
I guess it depends what you intend to gainQuote:
Originally Posted by viett
You won't gain better grip, especially not around corners.
If its for looks, by all means.
Not for looks at all, just found a pair of really good tyres for a really good price that happen to be those size.Quote:
Originally Posted by uniqlo
I mean I'm running chinese brand cheap tyres that lose traction around round abouts, so I was just hoping these would suffice until I get coin for a proper set of tires and wheels.
I have a set of brand new Toyo R1R 215/45/17 (done about 50km on them). would you be interested? bought on impulse and i drive like a granny, not using them to their potentialQuote:
Originally Posted by viett
or i have 4x toyo DRB 205/45/17 tyres about 70% tread, decent tyres
At 225/45 (I assume you're running this profile and not a 40 profile) it would already bulge/balloon a little so imagine it with a 245/40 tyre. It'd look pretty stupid and the handling of your car would also deteriorate.Quote:
Originally Posted by viett
I ran 245/40 tyres on my 9" wheels and they sat flush. The stock wheel is 7" wide (or 7.5" can't remember which).
You'd rather a set of shit tyres that actually fit the wheel than a set of sticky tyres that are the completely wrong size for your wheels. Buy CB's tyres or at least a set in the sizes which he listed.
Yes if money wasn't a factor then I would most definitely be running some 9" wheels with 245/40 tyres, or in this case buy CB's tyres.Quote:
Originally Posted by Symphorced
But with my year 12 exams in 2 weeks I have no time to be working and thus no coin for any mods for the time being, hence why I picked up these cheap tires hoping they would suffice to and from school for a month or so. I didn't buy these tires hoping I would get some mad times at Winton or so I could look 'stance'.
:)
My brother went to hand in the plates from the EP3 today, turns out that while insurance said it couldn't be registered again, its on the repairable write-off list (I'm going to try and get that confirmed in writing though), so I think I should fix it and get it back on the road instead of swapping the good bits into something else and scrapping a genuine shell.
Assuming I need to get it back to 100% stock condition, I'm going to need most of the interior plastics, headlining, rear seat, maybe door cards/dash/vents, instrument binacle cover, windscreen and passenger side rear glass. The front seats I can get retrimmed and seatbelts I can get brand-new.
I'm guessing I either need to find someone with a crashed EP3 in Australia, or see if someone like Jesse Streeter can source an interior in Japan?
Just use the good bits and k swap an ed/ef/eg/ek/dc2 because for what it will cost you to get the car fixed and engineered to become eligible for rego again, it is not worth it once you consider resale value.
Otherwise strip it and turn it into a dedicated track car
Noob question, can I (or should I) use different brand clutch fluid? Or would it be recommended to use the same as my brake fluid? My clutch fluid reservoir looks really polluted and I've started to get this loud clicking sound when I slightly depress the clutch...
I ended up finding the regulations for putting a repaired write-off back on the road in SA and it does look to be a pretty annoying system, they want invoices for all parts used and VINs of the cars they came from, every step photographed, engineers reports and metallurgists reports.... Seems like it could get expensive :(Quote:
Originally Posted by stndrd