Your Mods To 2006-2011 FD Civics

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Originally Posted by envoytheguy

Hey guys, finally got some new wheels on my FD!
To do (eventually!):
Side skirts
Type r rear bumper
Js racing exhaust
Js Racing lip & intake ducts
Mugen Type R grille
Rear camber arms

http://img838.imageshack.us/img838/6521/img3144t.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img198/3770/img3146.JPG
http://imageshack.us/a/img27/1514/img3151xi.jpg

Any thoughts? still deciding on Mugen side skirts or Type R side skirts to go with a js racing lip. Dont really like my red wheel nuts. Any suggestions?

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Nice! What wheels are those? and fitment specs?

Type R hands down. I rkn the red nuts looks nice. Red+silver accent colours e.g honda badge.
If I could re pick my kit, it'd be a type r withs J's lip.

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Originally Posted by hamham1748

do we need to buy all the bar? or maybe only need the front 1 will do? =p

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rear alone is the a very popular choice.

neutralises handling.

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Originally Posted by Stevil

Dunno Curtis, FD2 Type R all started with an FD1 and as we know

FD2R > EP3, DC5R and DC2R !!

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yes... once they completely redo all the welds in the chassis for additional stiffness

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Originally Posted by Harricade

Nice! What wheels are those? and fitment specs?

Type R hands down. I rkn the red nuts looks nice. Red+silver accent colours e.g honda badge.
If I could re pick my kit, it'd be a type r withs J's lip.

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SSR Type F?
Looks fkn sick m8

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Originally Posted by Harricade

Well, I've read in an old post that the oem endlinks wont be able to take the stress with the stiffer RSB. Thus an Aftermarket endlink is needed when upgrading the RSB.
Also, apparently the USDM Civic SI's can fit into the FD's for a reasonable price to if you can get away with cheap shipping.
PS:Black8thgen, this is from your time. lol

http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthr...t-FD2-Sway-Bar

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the oem endlinks is fine.. its where the endlink connects to the lower controller arm that is weak.. the metal where the endlink is attached is thin and can break off from the lower controller arm if alot of extra stress is applied.. i had on the cusco 23mm RSB which is thicker and heavier than other RSB

9+32 with 225?

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Originally Posted by JOhnnyFD

the oem endlinks is fine.. its where the endlink connects to the lower controller arm that is weak.. the metal where the endlink is attached is thin and can break off from the lower controller arm if alot of extra stress is applied.. i had on the cusco 23mm RSB which is thicker and heavier than other RSB

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Ah, ok.
So whats the solution around it w/o welding?
Id presume, a strut bar in the boot and maybe a 16/19mm RSB?

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Originally Posted by Stevil

R U Kiddin ! thats got to be one of the best lookin FD's Ive seen for a while

whats the specs rims and rubber ?

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Thanks man! SSR Type F rims. Front wheels on 225/40 and rears are on 215/40 for more clearance

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Originally Posted by Harricade

Nice! What wheels are those? and fitment specs?

Type R hands down. I rkn the red nuts looks nice. Red+silver accent colours e.g honda badge.
If I could re pick my kit, it'd be a type r withs J's lip.

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Hahha yeah. I think the RR is a bit too common but yours looks awesome in white! I originally chose the red because of that exact reason but i think it stands out a bit too much for my liking,

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Originally Posted by chunky

SSR Type F?
Looks fkn sick m8

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Thanks mate!

Wheels are SSR Type F silver 18x9 + 32! front and rear fenders rolled lowered on coilovers!

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Originally Posted by envoytheguy

Thanks man! SSR Type F rims. Front wheels on 225/40 and rears are on 215/40 for more clearance

Thanks mate!

Wheels are SSR Type F silver 18x9 + 32! front and rear fenders rolled lowered on coilovers!

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Woow! Nice car bro! One of the cleanest FD i have seen on this forum (No offence to others)
Do you have any trouble running 9" wide wheels? never seen 18x9+32 on an FD

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Originally Posted by Harricade

Ah, ok.
So whats the solution around it w/o welding?
Id presume, a strut bar in the boot and maybe a 16/19mm RSB?

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get smaller size RSB.. i havent heard problems with 16/19mm

if u do get cusco, try not to hit the rear wheels hard onto curbs and such.. other option is get the metal reinforcement plates (e.g Corsports USA) that reinforce the thin metal on the lower controller arm where the endlinks connects onto from the RSB

the oem endlink itself is fine, its got a small rubber 'CV boot' what has fluid in it which makes it flexible to move

so in my case, i hit the rear wheel on the passenger side on a curb when turning left and it was pretty hard.. with that hit, the force on the left rear wheel went across the RSB and broke the metal connected to the endlink off the lower controller arm on the right hand size (driver side)... i noticed it when everytime i turned, i would hear a clunk at the rear wheels and saw that the endlink would be hitting the controller arm... and yes with the endlink not connected, i notice a difference when turning.. understeer

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Originally Posted by envoytheguy

Thanks man! SSR Type F rims. Front wheels on 225/40 and rears are on 215/40 for more clearance



Hahha yeah. I think the RR is a bit too common but yours looks awesome in white! I originally chose the red because of that exact reason but i think it stands out a bit too much for my liking,



Thanks mate!

Wheels are SSR Type F silver 18x9 + 32! front and rear fenders rolled lowered on coilovers!

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Yeah but because you have a clean black ride. Your wheels are the focal point, the balance between the cleanliness of the body with the semi-loud wheels is good. In my opinion, if you silver dipped the top part of the grill would make the balance perfect.
Soz, graphic design expertise popping up. lol =P

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Originally Posted by JOhnnyFD

get smaller size RSB.. i havent heard problems with 16/19mm

if u do get cusco, try not to hit the rear wheels hard onto curbs and such.. other option is get the metal reinforcement plates (e.g Corsports USA) that reinforce the thin metal on the lower controller arm where the endlinks connects onto from the RSB

the oem endlink itself is fine, its got a small rubber 'CV boot' what has fluid in it which makes it flexible to move

so in my case, i hit the rear wheel on the passenger side on a curb when turning left and it was pretty hard.. with that hit, the force on the left rear wheel went across the RSB and broke the metal connected to the endlink off the lower controller arm on the right hand size (driver side)... i noticed it when everytime i turned, i would hear a clunk at the rear wheels and saw that the endlink would be hitting the controller arm... and yes with the endlink not connected, i notice a difference when turning.. understeer

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+1 Rep.
Sounds good, no need to look for Aftermarket Endlinks then, Will prob just get the 19mm RSB (Less hassle).
Ill skip the FSB, as I would like a tad more oversteer to balance out the steering of the front & back.

Maybe invest in a Rear top Strut brace (Corsport/ or just a Ultra Racing)

Seriously, what would I do w/o you guys! =)

hi guys asking some dumb questions again, which K&N air filter does honda civic FD sport 2006 used? cant find much info, FD is not Si mode right?

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Originally Posted by Harricade

+1 Rep.
Sounds good, no need to look for Aftermarket Endlinks then, Will prob just get the 19mm RSB (Less hassle).
Ill skip the FSB, as I would like a tad more oversteer to balance out the steering of the front & back.

Maybe invest in a Rear top Strut brace (Corsport/ or just a Ultra Racing)

Seriously, what would I do w/o you guys! =)

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What's the stock RSB size? 19 seems small for an aftermarket