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I can't even burp it since nothing is circulating... I have a feeling it's the thermostat thats stuck closed, so i tried to unbolt the 3 bolts that hold the housing; only to find i've crossthreaded it some how... all three of them.. i dont even know how
its your tstat not opening. do it few times until bottom hose or bottom part of radiator starts to get hot.Quote:
Originally Posted by UNA91
once tstat fully opens, you can bleed coolant properly and all should be fine and yolo.
im guessing u have aftermarket aluminium rad? bit more hard to get these kinda hotQuote:
Originally Posted by UNA91
also, where do you have your fan switch located if using aftermarket rad?
It's the tegiwa radiator, everything is positioned pretty much the same as stock. The problem is that none of the old coolant is flowing thru the lower radiator hose or into the upper radiator hose to the engine block, its like the thermostat is not opening. last thing i wanna do is replace the water pumpQuote:
Originally Posted by mocchi
edit: my ect is going over 100 degrees, thermostat should have opened at around 89 degrees. I also notice the engine bay gets really hot
i know what youre talking abt, happens to me all the timeQuote:
Originally Posted by UNA91
its easier to do it few times so coolant heats up as a whole.
if bottom part of your radiator or lower hose is cool, tstat most likely will not open even though temp of coolant in head is 100c
FEEL the lower part of radiator or lower rad hose. if cold, tstat not opening.
I had a look at the pump and the pulley seems fine, no leaks or worn bearings. Tested the tstat in boiling water and it opens up. What i think it might be is an airlock in the engine block. Theres no water/coolant behind the thermostat so it can't open up since there's nothing to heat it up. Possibly? Gonna get the car towed to mechanic to do a powerflush and see if it helps.
Why not just fill the block thru the top hose?
Got the cooling problem fixed. Now Just gotta sort out the CEL light. Getting code p1259 telling me the vtec solenoid is bugged and going into limp mode. Might just take it apart to get the screen cleaned, anyone know how roughly much oil will drip out?
Update: I'm using a krpo base map with the k20a2 running jsrc. Could that be causing my cel to come up? Found out the jdm k20a doesn't have a vtec oil pressure switch. I unchecked it from kpro but it still comes up as soon as I erase it
Anyone know how I would go with fitting
Front - 17X8 +40-45 with 225/40-45/17
Rears - 17X9 +40-45 with 245/40-45/17
Stock height, stock camber.
Front experience if your running 17x8 +42 in the rear will be very close to your trail arms (what you call them sorry).
Will FN2 recaros bolt straight onto the EP3 stock rails? Someone on here had them, can't remember who
Why do you want to run wider on the rear? It will make the car understeer moreQuote:
Originally Posted by viett