Cam gear not shaft I think. Pretty sure he's running an a6 shaftQuote:
Originally Posted by Riced_Civic
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Cam gear not shaft I think. Pretty sure he's running an a6 shaftQuote:
Originally Posted by Riced_Civic
ahh thought he was running both shaft and gear
im running a D15b7 with D16a6 shaft and Bisimoto cam gear
to be honest the cam gear isnt that good
the dial marks rubbed off easily
the dial bolts were of poor quality
and the points of the dial bolts rubbed on the inner timing belt guard - causing a tonne of plastic shavings to get caught up in the timing belt
lucky there was no damage
next time i would definatly go for a skunk2 unit instead
much better design with allen key bolts
cheers man, rushed off to buy a y1 gb for my y8 engine, gear ratios are very very close so i doubt id feel any difference :)Quote:
Originally Posted by TheSaint
shame that d-series gb aint that strong as ive found out :(
from what i was shown, 3 bearings gone, one being the main culprit, the input shaft bearing, syncros worn out, but other wise the gears them selfs, 10/10
price of a rebuild a staggering 1.5k !?!?!?!???!?!?!?!??! >_<
the best 3 gearbox's for the D are the D15b, D16y1/D16z6 and the D16y8
the problem with the D16y8 box is that it is stamped the same as the D16y5 box's in australia (S40 B000)
so you can never tell which you are getting - normal ratio box's being S40 A000
good thing about the D15b and D15y1 is that the better ratio ones all have S20 B000
and the ones with the not as good ratios are all S20 A000
the strongest of the whole range is the JDM D15b
some of these even came with LSD from factory
this is also the box that Bisi uses in his 700hp monster
and what i am running on mine at the moment
(still not bullet proof - but crap loads better than my D15b7 box)
be careful to mention this when dealing with wreckers - they will happily sell you a "D16y1" gearbox
but it might be off a D15b7 etc because to them all D box's are the same
i had many heated discussions on the phone to wreckers about this until i finally found a proper JDM D15b box at Honbits in perth
what a mission that was - end up costing around $600 for the box, $200ish for exedy o.e clutch and exedy 10lbs flywheel
+ couple of hundred to my mechanic to fit it all up with new fluids and sump bolt
Abit ot but Hondbits were great, got a few bits and pieces from there few years back. Few months ago went looking for them and they have closed down. Shame really because they were very helpful and they could source anything you needed.
I know plenty what goes on at d-series.org believe me. Im just curious to know if anyone on ozhonda / in australia has tried one yet
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheSaint
That US guy was saying that the Crower gear is top. Looked into that at all?
So why did my post relating to headers/intakes get deleted ?
okay so now im confused reading mixed things
what does top end and mid etc mean ?
i just want good power lets say 0-100 ??
u mean as in the power band????????Quote:
Originally Posted by viinnh
top end = the power is all in the top end rpm range, so no good on a dd, good example are the b16b, good power, but u can never really acess all 180hp unless u fang it till 8200rpm, which in old terms is a whipper snipper engine LOL....
and for mid, as plainly as it is, power is all in the mid rpm range, which is what most cars are like, which is ideal for dd....
good 0-100? no one with a d-series does that LOL, unless u plan on boosting it, than take it to the twisty rds instead, u appreciate it even more :)
Top end = high rpmQuote:
Originally Posted by viinnh
mid = mid range rpm
Depends on your budget too, quality cai is roughly twice the price of a fake whale penis intake, if you want good power i recommend the fujita Cai intake for your ek, it uses a smaller diameter pipe than than the injen which suits the d16y4 better.