Theyre designed to operate at variable angles...
what causes the loss you say occurs?
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Theyre designed to operate at variable angles...
what causes the loss you say occurs?
Is that right ? Or is Chris right? Or both to a degree? lolQuote:
Originally Posted by EKVTIR-T
Sorry for the confusion, but it is an interesting point.
And imagine that. Kswapped cars not running to full potential yet being able to run how they do... NICE! hehehe
Also, on the driveshaft issue.
It does seem that the EKK2 mounts and EG/DC rack will help in fixing the angle problem.
But thicker shafts will also go a long way too.
Time for me to save up some coin for them
=)
Both are right haha.Quote:
Originally Posted by CIV-18C
Before you get new shafts, make sure you weigh up the costs for each option. It might even be better to spend a little more and get the new EKK2's and eg/dc rack + new shafts. What is your budget?
Ultimately the whole package is ideal of course. EKK2, subframe, shafts and inner hub.Quote:
Originally Posted by Vvvtec
The only thing i'm not sure on is the price of the DC2R subframe? Do you/anybody know how much they go roughly?
In terms of budget (and timing). I really don't see the need for me to throw money at this side of the equation any time soon. With other things in my personal life closer and meaning more to me then my car on the horizon, it'll be in the new year until I purchase these things. So i'll be gradually putting the pennies away until the budget caters for the whole purchase.
Good way to be man.Quote:
Originally Posted by CIV-18C
Can't comment on prices regarding parts for this swap, never looked into the EK Kswap much, been fixated on the DC/EG swap haha
Here's some reading if you havn't seen it yet
http://www.k20a.org/forum/showthread.php?t=35426
dc2r subframe is cheap. I got one here if you're keen. pm if interested
Thanks matey.Quote:
Originally Posted by Vvvtec
=)
lol - understandably from your point though. If I ever drive up i'll be sure to hit you and the other QLD honda boys up.
Thanks for the link too.
Appreciate it.
Wish I saw this out of the office though.... LOL
Great!Quote:
Originally Posted by 89lude
no harm in collecting cheap parts for now..... right guys? LOL
Will do.
EKK2 + dc2/eg subframe will fix the problem
Seems the way to go.Quote:
Originally Posted by EG5
Apologies for sounding like a broken record guys.
Thank you to all those who shared their input.
Extra thanks to "mullens" who shared his experience in my car diary thread too.
Thus ends the chapter in this thread re; EK, Kswaps and driveshafts lol
Until I, or someone else, actually put new mounts in and documents it in here of course.
=)
It might get confusing. But maybe a reference / index page can be made at the start of the thread?
Although it might be a bit hard for VVVtec to monitor.
Anyway, carry on. lol
They are designed to work at a certain range of angles, and each design (there are many) has different maximum operating angles that are able to sustain a certain load, otherwise they fail. It is pretty hard to transmit a fair amount of force through a coupler to change direction, this is why we use gearboxes - obviously we can't do this with driveshaftsQuote:
Originally Posted by EKVTIR-T
The loss essentially comes from frictional losses. It gets worse as the operation angle increases. Each joint is unique in it's characteristic so it's not as simple as putting a number on it but it is known to be a loss operating at an angle. I don't have data on these shafts to spit numbers out otherwise I would
kswap almost complete so hard atm
Know exactly how u feelQuote:
Originally Posted by Slow.ek1