should I be using something slightly thicker at 100,000km? is 10w40 ok at this point?
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should I be using something slightly thicker at 100,000km? is 10w40 ok at this point?
10/30 is fine anything IMO!
Did u change spark plugs urself? Should be a pretty simple DIY?Quote:
Originally Posted by RPS.13
Theres really no point to go to a higher grade unless your car is burning a lot of oil or if its leaking. You do get better protection but however it will make your engine work harder in the thicker oil. If you do plan to use thicker oil, never go over 10w40. In the castrol recommendation book, i say about 90% of toyotas and hondas ever use 10w40 and the highest viscosity they can will ever go is 15w40. So just stick with the viscosity that your car is use to and 100 000kms is really not that bad.Quote:
Originally Posted by will13
george likes the thicker oils for great lubrication :D
I use castrol edge 5w30or 10w30
Hey can I get some of that coconut rubbing oil when we next meet up. If you're up at the Stonewall this weekend, I'll meet you there!Quote:
Originally Posted by SuperSteve
Try brake fluid, it should give a better burning sensation.Quote:
Originally Posted by Nepolian
Why not gearbox oil that's better smoooth lube.
TODA catback arrived today! OM NOM NOM :D
Over rated, who would buy one of these :/Quote:
Originally Posted by Symphorced
^ LOL! Funny guy ^
WTF George................
Hey Neps! Don't you have one of these?Quote:
Originally Posted by Nepolian
Oh yeah, I do.Quote:
Originally Posted by Nepolian
Hey Sym, excellent choice man!!
i dunno, but i think george used too much coconut oil.....
edit: or not enough
I've got 70000ks on my ep and the clutch went ... :( I ordered the exedy sports organic. Hannys quoted me $500 for the install is that about right? I even name dropped Steve and George...maybe that made the price go up ;P
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Its not a easy job lol. Harder than B or D series....if you are having a cry I can beat that Pm me
very overrated that only you steve and sym have it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Nepolian
I find it overrated just looking at it.. and I haven't even taken the bubble wrap off yet!
Yeah I wonder !Quote:
Originally Posted by Nepolian
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$500 is cheap imo.Quote:
Originally Posted by Twest
Other places charges 600 or 700+ easily.
Hey guys wheres the best place to get a timing belt? And if i go to honda reckon its the same one as a dc5r?
same motor so i reckon its the same, get it off like mekong auto spares or ozi auto spares on sackville st possibly cheaper?
Why do you need a timing belt?
The k20 runs on chain, so it don't need changing.
I think he meant the drive belt.Quote:
Originally Posted by Poeter
if it is the drive belt, they look to be the same, but part number is different. safest option is to get the EP3's one.Quote:
Originally Posted by stienerv2
Hey guys, for a full flush, how much MTF would I need?
Dealership is no help whatsoever. The guy asked for my VIN when I asked how much the MTF cost. :/
drive belt is different between DC5 and EP3.
MTF i think you need 2 bottles and should not be more than $20 each.
for a drain and refill I usually get 3 bottles of MTF (2 and a half bottle ) and double that for a full flush.Quote:
Originally Posted by Symphorced
Weird. Drain and refill is just 2 bottles for me. Done it many times. Each bottle of MTF is 1L. Ep3 Service manual states 1.8L for a drain and refill.
I get my MTF for $15-16 per bottle. If dealer says otherwise just ask them price match it.
Labour only cost $30 from most mechanics.
Next time when you go into a dealer. Don't bother mentioning you have an import. They just give you a hard time, so you can get off their property.
I believe this is true because the DC5R runs hydraulic power steering pump and hence the belt should be longer than that of a ep3.Quote:
Originally Posted by Philip Lee
The ep3 just runs a small tensioner pulley in place of the missing hydraulic pump.
Quote:
Originally Posted by stienerv2
Let me know where you get one, cause I wanna convert mine from chain to belt drive too ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnO
Quote:
Originally Posted by Poeter
this man knows what he is talking about.Quote:
Originally Posted by Poeter
with oil etc, i always tell them i have a DC5R. and its always been 2 bottles of MTF for drain and refill and i have replaced twice. when doing flush, do you drain, then flush with new oil then refill? if that's they case u'll need more than 2 bottles.
Yeah drive belt! lol. Im just getting this squeakish sound coming from that area on cold starts.
The gearbox on my car takes around 1.7-1.8 of oil.
It's a band of some kind :) no need to get into details!
Enkei RPF1 17s in white 17x8+35 for $1165 shipped to your door??!!! why they didn't have this when i had my EP3??????
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthr...lable-in-WHITE!
Lol. If only they had some concavity, I'll buy it.
Like this.
http://www.s2ki.com/s2000/gallery/pa...933__file__med
who cares. it's an awesome wheel. cheap, light, strong and in the god damn correct colour!!!
u won't get concave in 8" on any wheels.
edit: pete, those on the S2K are still flat!!!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Philip Lee
Thanks Phil =) might hit these up.
whoops. I mean some dish. lolQuote:
Originally Posted by Philip Lee
i don't mind flat but it looks "convex" shaped.
Ahh well. Someone's getting already. Wouldn't want to copy.Quote:
Originally Posted by Perry
Sigh and my parents will crack the shits at me. And got no room to store the stock rims.
dam they are a very nice looking rim. Would look pretty awesome on a ep3
Pete, Sell the stock wheels and re use the tyres lol
What's a good brand of clutch for the ep3???
I'm after something more aggressive for the fronts though.Quote:
Originally Posted by Poeter
Store it in your spare EP!Quote:
Originally Posted by Poeter
Exedy sport will do the job just fine!Quote:
Originally Posted by Blackep3
Thanks nepo
So I need 4 bottles of MTF for a full flush?Quote:
Originally Posted by blk_shadow
Anyone know how much coolant I need to do a full flush? And same with brake fluid.
brake fluid 2 bottles
Thanks!
Hey guys,
The CEL came on yesterday and I thought it was just the oxygen sensor...did the little paperclip pin thing and It came back with code 23 which is the Knock Sensor Circuit Malfunction. Reset the ECU thinking it was just a one off thing...it came back on today. How can I check this problem? I can't take it to my mechanic due to the public holiday. Any advice?
you got a open circuit on the knock sensor. check the pins to the knock sensor. remove the plug, check the connectors, spray a contact cleaner n replug in and reset. make sure connection is secure. Reset cel. if cel comes on again, chg the knock sensor.
noticeably dank smell from in or around fuel pump cover. Should there be any vented scent at all ? possible failing fuel pump or ?
Lol, just realized I had my undies inside out! :S
ive actually gone thru entire working days and found out my shorts or shirt on inside out. Not to mention wearing a sock on the wrong foot !
Hate it when this happens. Especially when I've got skid marksQuote:
Originally Posted by Nepolian
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Lol I've accidentally wore mismatched shoes to work before. Drove home before anyone noticed and save myself the embarrassment
*Facepalm*.
i've had my pants rip where the butt is. thankfully nobody saw and i quickly wrapped a jumper round my waist and went to buy a new pair of jeans.
I saw it and I'm still slightly blind in my right eyeQuote:
Originally Posted by flubbar
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Is that the photo you showed me and tried to pass it off as a chicks butt??Quote:
Originally Posted by SuperSteve
Some pics to wet your appetite's:
http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/t...g?t=1304409778
http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/t...g?t=1304409779
Guys need a bit of help with my rear coilovers...?
I'm at a bit of a loss and cannot figure out why the left side is higher than the right... The left side I maxed out today, and it has a 1.5-2 finger gap between the guard and tyre. The right side still has about 25mm of thread to wind down, however this side has less than 1 finger gap. Coilovers: BC BR's base height adjustable.
Apart from adjusting the coilover height, am I missing something??? I checked, it doesn't look like anything is bent, not signs of rear end damage under the car...
Forget my post in your other thread.....check/adjust the preload spring height then just check how far out you are in the seat?.
Cheers thanks Nepolian! yeah I left the preload as set from the box... I'll recheck them when I rip them out next time.
The preload is usually done with height. eg BC (BuddyClubs) use 200mm etc). Can be checked whilst on car!Quote:
Originally Posted by RPS.13
Lol, wished I have the balls to use that kind of offset.
Okay cool, i'll check them on the car. If that doesn't yield any result, then I'll flip them. Yeah the BC BR site says, their preload is set 5mm up from when the spring seat touches the spring.Quote:
Originally Posted by Nepolian
Haha, do it... you know you want too! You don't need balls, more like half a brain... :p lol
Damn RPS, what offset and width is that?
Must be rubbing galore??
hey guys, my central locking is stuffed, all doors including the boot. im looking at some actuators on ebay but wondering if any of you guys had this replaced and still have the part number for actuators that fit our ep3?
Cheers
ive only had it changed for the doors not the boot, isnt it any aftermarket actuator will fit for the doors? not too sure about the boot though.Quote:
Originally Posted by Eskimo_firefighter
also what do you guys think of 17x8 +35 all round on stock height? no intentions of coils or anything lower than stock springs/sussy cause im scratching my exhaust over some speedhumps....
My aftermarket actuator didnt go in the same place as the oem ones. The guy had to drill holes into the door to put the new motors up.
17x9 +18, 215/45 yoko S drivesQuote:
Originally Posted by Poeter
Haha, no rubbing... yet! as I haven't driven on it, was only a test fit yesterday.
just changed to k&n drop in
IMAGINARY +KW FTW
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5147/...347c396d18.jpgQuote:
Originally Posted by JohnO
This is what 17x7 +25 looks like lowered on BuddyClub N+ coilovers with negative camber dialled in. So 17x8 will look pretty much the same from the outside. There is no rubbing and scrubbing (though my rear guard has been rolled). Your RM01A must hang lower than the stock exhaust by quite a bit..
Spookz is that your car? Did u get spacers for your stock wheels?
Yeap, they're 20mm Project Kics bolt on spacers with the correct hub centric rings.
Closest pic I have of a 17x8 set up, +37... but this one is again lowered, no tyre specs unfortunately. Sits pretty nice though...Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnO
http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/t...g?t=1304550601
My wheels before I lowered it, 16x8 +38, 205/55/16... not rolled yet in the pic. No rubbing, even though the tyre is slightly taller.
http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/t...g?t=1304550568
The 17x8 +35 will sit 3mm further out... You should get away with a 215/45/17... try use your old tyres first, if your using a 215/45, should it rub then maybe drop to a 205/45, or roll your guards.
Just a pic of my car, Attachment 18579
looks nice, where'd you go to take that pic?Quote:
Originally Posted by Blackep3
OMG! is that george in the back seat?! O_O
Hey i think i know this black ep. He use to come into my shop all the time. If i can remember it was a personal import from uk.
just to confirm...EP3 brake pads are the same as AP1/2 & DC5R pads right?
I took the photo at my bosses yard, I just bought it two weeks ago off my mate.
Hey guys, I'm just about to order some discs and pads. RDA STD and slotted. Let me know of your interested!