Wrong stuff man, your talking about the lower tie bar. Completely differentQuote:
Originally Posted by bluey45
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Wrong stuff man, your talking about the lower tie bar. Completely differentQuote:
Originally Posted by bluey45
Quote:
Originally Posted by gr3y123
If you want brand new OEM part and Honda Australia doesn't want to help you.
Here's an indication of price. http://www.hondaoriginalparts.com/ho...&block_03=9814
They will ship to Australia. My mate has ordered stuff from and they are legit business. His parts were shipped within 5 working days.
If you find the price is too expensive for OEM, I believe there are aftermarket ones like T1R inverted tie rods.
However, there is a chance DC5R's tie rod might fit but I think they're a bit different in length.
http://i918.photobucket.com/albums/a...n/100_5613.jpg
Hey guys make sure you have a cabin filter in your cars. I've just check mine and theres nothing in there. So freaking dodgy
Cabin filters are optional.
Alot Hondas are like this. My jazz had no pollen filter when it the capability to have one.
So it's nothing dodgey.
You're lucky if you have one.
I think cabin filter is optional.
didn't check my old EP3 but there wasn't one in my old Jazz.
Lol Phillip I haven't bothered checking but I'll get around to it when I have time.
Btw, I've installed your low rails. You're right it's not that bad. Reason I changed is because the OEM still made alot of creaking noise but now that's all good with the lower rails.
Ah sorry lol. I got confused. Still new to this lol.Quote:
Originally Posted by stienerv2
just wondering, can a crappy clutch master cylinder cause the clutch to slip during high revs/vtec ?
Not really because I would imagine you're not using the clutch at the time and hence clutch is fully engaged.
When the clutch master cylinder dies, it would hamper the ability to disengage the clutch.
It sounds more like you got a worn clutch that's causing the slip. That's my guess.
i just got my exedy sports organic clutch done only 15,000km ago. would machining the flywheel help anything?
:s
well the mechanic would have machined the flywheel as a standard procedure.
Has he changed the rear main seal? Does the bottom of your transmission look oily or greasy?
it's good isn't it. feels like a race car lolQuote:
Originally Posted by Poeter
It's pretty good.
I like having the steering adjusted low as well. Feels less like a truck now.
but there is a super low one still.......
haha no thanks. I think you're one is just right.
i had the super low after the vision and the difference is night and day.
ask Perry as he had sat on it once.
not sure which rails I have but mine sits pretty low, can sometimes make it hard to be fully aware of where your front wheels are, dont know if anyone else experiences this.
What brand was the super low one?
Bride?
Hi guys, I have hving problem wit my car alarm due to the aftermath of the shocking thunder strike in melbourne this wednesday. The keyless entry wouldnt work on the driver's side initially but now it doesnt work on both the driver and passenger side when arming the car (no problem on both when disarming/ getting in the car). Does anyone know good alarm installation/repair centre in Melbourne? help is very much appreciated. thanks :)
It's "vanner tuner's special". I think someone here has it too.Quote:
Originally Posted by Poeter
There was a massive difference between the both rails =)Quote:
Originally Posted by Philip Lee
+1 to "vanner tuner's special" its probably one of the best mods I've done to the EP. Even back then, when the car was pretty stock. The difference in the seating position made the car feel so much better.Quote:
Originally Posted by Philip Lee
I have trouble seeing some curbs when turning right. I kind of have to try and look around the A pillar through the front window or under side mirror to see them properly.Quote:
Originally Posted by will13
has anyone ever come across a squeaking/creaking noise whilst turning left or right but on a decline like say out of a steep driveway? i know my wheels scrub but i doubt its making the noise, sounds more metal than rubber hitting the mudguard
Just reading the post about seat rails.. I've always felt my seat was low and I've being told I look like a midget driving my car when I'm actually 180cm tall :p
Anyway I just check now and I happen to have the FEEL'S seat rail on my ep3 and quick research says its 40mm lower than stock height.. I like the height to be honest, stepping on the clutch feels good at this height. If anyones interested, feel free to have a sit in my driver seat at the next meet :)
the flywheel was machined, rear main seal replaced, the bottom of the tranny looks clean actually. i reckon it could be the clutch master cylinder not engaging fully? i know its either on or off but the piston and sleeve might be damaged somehow. which is why im not fully enganging in on or off which burns the clutchQuote:
Originally Posted by Poeter
A couple of questions for you EP3 drivers...
I'm considering buying an EP3, and was wondering how people have fared when trying to get a car repaired after a smash, considering that there aren't panels available locally? Do insurers just write them off if the panels can't be repaired?
Also, why is it so hard to sell these cars? There are cars that have been sitting on Carsales for several months. I haven't checked them out personally, but a couple look ok. Is it just the price, considering that IMG have told me they are selling freshly imported cars at the same price that people are asking for the ones in the classifieds? Are sellers just unrealistic about how much these cars have dropped in value in the last couple of years?
Lastly, having driven both pre and post facelift cars, the only real difference I can feel is in the steering. The facelift feels a bit more direct and the LSD didn't tug at the steering so much. What do you guys reckon? Is it worth paying a couple of thousand more for the later model?
Cheers
Goatpaste
In that case, should take it to your mechanic to check the master and slave to see if they are on their way to seizing up.Quote:
Originally Posted by av90
I've known a few ppl that got their car repaired. Depending on damage, they vary from 2 weeks to more than a month.Quote:
Originally Posted by goatpaste
Most owners believe parts are hard to gets. That is true if your smash repairs are looking for 2nd hand parts and do not have their overseas connections with Japan and Hong Kong.
If the insurer are not being tight, brand new parts can be sourced easily from Honda UK or Japan on the condition that the correct part numbers can be provided. So in my opinion if you could offer assistance in finding out the part numbers needed that could speed things up.
There is a 2008 HONDA EPC (electronic parts catalog) floating around the internet for download. If you can read Japanese, you'll basically have all the parts number needed for the JDM spec EP3. This include rear quarter panels and etc.
With regards to selling up EP3, they're not selling well now because there is now alot of them in the market and hence the demand is tapered off. The hype is no longer what they were like when were first ready for import. Not that many people fancy the hatchback shape either because they feel like it looks like a Jazz or what not.
EP3 is pretty much now a cheap p-platers car. Alot owners sell them off and upgrade themselves for an evo or whatever turbo cars they can get their hands on for brute power which devalues their market value further.
Whether the extra few grand for the cosmetic changes and steering improvement is up to you. There is no significant improvement of the facelift over the prefacelift. THese day facelfit is no longer a hype because they are now very affordable and has caught up with the number of prefacelift ep3s running around.
Hope that helps.
Thanks Poeter, very useful.
Hey guys, just wanted to say ill be joining the family with a white EP3 I recently purchased..
=P
Welcome! hope to see you around. or at the next meet. =)Quote:
Originally Posted by forensics
Do you use to own a em1 or ek?Quote:
Originally Posted by forensics
Welcome to the EP3 family dude =)
Yeah I use to own a black EM1 ages ago.. had another 4 cars in between the EM1 and the EP3 LOLQuote:
Originally Posted by Perry
I thought I recongnised your name. Em1 with s2k seats yeah?Quote:
Originally Posted by forensics
Hey guys, driver side window suddenly stop working. Any ideas?
^^ try disconnect and reconnect battery, it will reset your power window system..
try this turn your key to 2nd click, hold your window down like auto down for 10seconds. turn it off, back on again and auto up should be working again
both failed
:( oh noo... burnt motor maybe, check your window seals.. if they are old and cracked that might be the reason of the window getting caught going up and down, therefore causing stress to the motor for it to give up..
ive already replaced the seals and they still look perfect. I have to check the switch but im lazy to pull the door apart again.
Check under dash fuses....
Woops i forgot to post that i've changed those 2 fuses while i was at work.
YEP thats the one.. my friend still drives that car. the car has seen better days since i sold it lolQuote:
Originally Posted by Perry
guys looking for a rear bar for a 2002 ep3r, champsionship white..
Let me know
Dean
I'm still getting body creeking sounds comming from the rear. When I took my tyres off had a look around at the bushings and notbings broken. Are there any bolts that should be tightenned?
Swaybar bushes , replace or regrease
Or swaybar endlinks too
Thanks Ben!
Hey Guys,
Any recommendations on where to buy and which shifter bushings to get?
My gear shift is pretty mushy and getting from 2nd to 3rd on high revs - most recently about 80% of the time it will never go into 3rd.
Also, has anyone used Honda's fully synthentic oil on their EP3s? I've recently got it put into mines, based on the recommendation from Hanny's.
On cold start ups in the morning, it sounds exactly the same as though it's been running on normal temp. Protection right from key start and the engine feels nice and smooth.
freak'n 14.02 a the Creek tonigh
So close I can smell it grrrrrr
I use "calibre 5/30" fully synthetic from SCA.Quote:
Originally Posted by p3p5y
Cheap , 5.5l and same product as the honda fully synthetic !
Try EBAY for a bushing kit. I got metal bushings for the shifter surround and linkage end for about $30 incl shipping from a uk seller
Btw luke SOO CLOSE !
So honda gets their oil made by Caltex too? Dam i never knew that.
Thanks Ben, appreciate it.Quote:
Originally Posted by bennjamin
yep i bought the honda fully synthetic (FEO) as my first oil change after the car landed from Japan- nice and smooth, but yeah i might just use Magnatec or caltex from here on in
was thinking of going for the billet bushings on ebay theres also a video install for it on youtube i think
mate get mugen mounts theyre enough for daily driving! others will be too hardcore unless youre hardcore
Hey boys problem, my srs light is on??? What do I do and has it happen to any of you???
Its your airbag light.Quote:
Originally Posted by Blackep3
you will need to go get light error read from those diagnostic port computers and go from there.
give DEDY at TOP ONE a call and he can sort it out for you.
9599 8965
Went to my mechanic yesterday and plugged the diagnostic machine into my car, it come up with a faulty drivers side airbag, so I think it's time to go aftermarket steering wheel
^^ omg you serious Paul?
try this website, they have alot of used stock parts for EP3R and just send them a email they quote you on delivery costs..
http://www.japperformanceparts.co.uk/
told ya you'll need a new aftermarket one ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by Blackep3
If it doesnt effect your horn do it, as i know from my other cars if the SRS problem pops up the horn wont work.Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnO
Anyone on here taken out the lock collars on their coilovers before...? or is anyone here low enough to be tucking tyre?
I'm thinking about lowering the EP more, now that I have hit the track and will be reverting back to my street setup soon.
Trying to figure out the best way to lower it, since my coilovers were maxed out before I hit the track.
Mike I've recently run into the same problem for my rears. Maxed out rear passenger side and rear driver side has to have around 8-10 threads remaining for it to be level. No idea what the problem is but I took the coilovers out last night and they actually are different lengths so it doesn't seem to be the fault of the coilovers but I can't think of anything else?
I need more low too! :p
Hey guys, anyone interested in a cheeseburger run, from the city to the gong??? This Saturday night say meet at 7:30pm say silverwater maccas
Via RNP yeah????
Hey perry, what's RNP???
I'm down! But my car has cooling issues where I jump on VTEC too much the needle starts rising to very close to H! So I have to go through RNP and shift at 5500rpm!! :(
RNP = royal national park it's my fav run!
you need better ratio of coolant to water, coolant should be around 45% and rest is waterQuote:
Originally Posted by EG52NV
actually you need only about 10-20% coolant, water is the best transferrer of heat and the more coolant you add the less it does its job.. you need just enough to stop corrosion
Watch it lads, cops in there all the time these days. The part from waterfall to otford is also only 60 and unbroken lines the whole way. The cops sit there and cash in!
I know as I go through every weekend on my bike
Might give the cheeseburger run a miss tonight due to my lack of letting ppl know, so there are not many of us going. But I think we should make it into a cruise some time soon
end of year one in december so everyone gets full notice
maybe a bbq while were at it aswell
RNP is dangerous of cops Twelve aint kidding!!
I've got done there once one night last year. Now I know a mate of mine got instant suspension with licences consificated.
I warn you guys again, the cops are there day and night. So don't even bother hitting over 3000 rpm there.
Yeah I think that would be better Johnny hopefully more ppl wil be interested then
Do any of u guys go down to Old Pacific HWY? (Old-Pac) Much better run then RNP, well that's a personal opinion :)
Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnO
so youre saying to dilute oem coolant with more water?Quote:
Originally Posted by Lukezen27
Quote:
Originally Posted by mocchi
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/customa...tar11984_5.gif
dilute to your hearts content!
I always do..Quote:
Originally Posted by mocchi
I used to built custom water cooled PC's for sales to games and still do from my own systems..
The rad and so on use the same metal and parts to a car in most cases and If found massive cooling differences in in % of water to coolant
The more the plain water the better and quicker the heat goes but you need to have enough coolant to stop corrosion and that's really its only job unless you live in sub 0c haha
Yeah theres a graph on the royal purple website showing the cooling temperatures of coolant/water mixtures levels. Straight water appears to have the best cooling but you dont get protection of anti rust etc.
Doesn't Coolant raise the boiling point of the water, therefore shouldn't that make it better at cooling the engine?Quote:
Originally Posted by stienerv2
Correct. The best coolant is antifreeze/antiboil. Lowers the freezing point to below 0 and raises the boiling point to above 100. Also contains corrosion inhibitors.
However, don't forget that the cooling system is under pressure, so plain water wont actually boil until about 115