Lets Talk d-series

Boosting is really the only way to build power out of a d16, hence my suggestion of the vitara pistons steve :)

affordable enough to do reliably :)

good clutch kit (exedy cushion button comes to mind)
#1500 kit from rocket or a fullrace kit for all of the needed turbo parts minus cat back system
professional installation for kit (if need be, I'd be more inclined just to have a good electrician finish it off really as most is pretty straight forward)
tune
suspension
decent road worthy rubber

spending money on replacing:
water pump
cam and crank seals
oil pump (replacing it when the sump is off for the bung to be installed would be advised as theyre pretty cheap to get a hold of)
all the belts (ac, ps, etc)
timing belt
tensioner pulley
valve cover gasket
sump gasket
tube of hondabond
rear main seal (as you're getting a new clutch it's easy to replace then)
optional dizzy o-ring if you feel the need as they do fail after a period of time

a heck of alot of fun for a good price, 7psi easy driving conditions :) fun on a good budget, without living on noodles or breaking the bank too hard :)

any more and you'll have to replace the conrods, pistons, etc (well it's advised, seen one qlder using 15psi daily for the past 4yrs without trouble but better to use parts on a application to application basis)

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Originally Posted by EK1.6LCIV

just get the rebuild kit with the vitara pistons :)

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Oh i missed the part where you mentioned the turbo.

im saying bye bye to my d15b 3-stage vtec right now. it just wont let go.

just over minimum oil , realised i got a leak somewhere when i parked it at my apartments garage in lakes entrance, not major but just small small drops
flogg the crap out of it but i still do warm it up to optimum temp where the needle is about a little under halfway point
etc. etc.

it just wont die lol honda have made their engines like it was going to go to the moon or someshit
only reason im doing this is so i have an excuse for my old man to help me scrap my automatic to get a manual car. thinking of a prelude 3g or even a vti eg (im not a rich fella, actually WAYY behind it i live payday by payday).
just as long as its manual (this auto box is killin me! i really want to use a stick) i have a habit of letting go of the gas at 2.3k rpm and putting it back on so it acts like a manual regardless if its not as fuel efficient or not rofls. im that bad.

got a b16a long blok lying around in my garage but no use for it. ima keep it there in case i wanna use it in the future. but if i end up getting a vti, that b block wont go in, id like to play with a d first

in all respects to this thread n fellow d lovers, i love the d, but it aint really neck to neck against a B series.

BUTTTTT
there has been one whack occasion where ive done a commodore style race against a GSI integra, and i was always ahead of him by at least my front fender since take off. that was the most WTF moment ever. and i had a fat passenger in the front seat too lolol. guess either d-series are actually not THAT bad, or that other guy was just a shit driver, but i heard his car screaming. he shifted pretty well.


well thats some nice d vs b spam in this thread. :D

hahahaha, commo race... , but aniways, D-series im finding is good, but not upto where id like it to be... spending on it alone isnt justifiable as well, unless boosting, which i prbs do very last.... or drop in b18, depending on the situation im goin for in near future
If they had made the d-series Y1, Y8 in dohc, an not talkin about zc, and with the current Vtec system, it would make for awsum tuning platform.

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Originally Posted by cheapdouchebag

thinking of a prelude 3g

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I really like these, but they're hard to come by in manual. Apparently they're a bit of a weapon in the corners.

quick one gentlemen (also ladies, never know lol :)) the size of a d16y8 clutch for the d16y8 is it 200mm or 212mm

exedy site isn't proving useful lol will pq point anyone who answers :)

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Originally Posted by EK1.6LCIV

quick one gentlemen (also ladies, never know lol :)) the size of a d16y8 clutch for the d16y8 is it 200mm or 212mm

exedy site isn't proving useful lol will pq point anyone who answers :)

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212mm

Hi Timmy!

There's plenty of fast d's in the US and Europe,they are out there,built cheaply and fast!!

It's all about the knowledge and we here in AUS simply don't have it but with the net it's a simple as a click away!

http://www.d-series.org/ :)

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Originally Posted by ekcoupe

212mm

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you wouldn't be able to elaborate further would you? :)
source of info, etc, even if you ran a tape over the clutch would be nice to know :)
cheers :)

I hardly no much about clutches since ive only owned a auto:p

but i just searched "d16y8 clutch" on google an this came up - http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2387214

EDIT: not sure if this helps ryan? but found another link when searching on d-series.org

click here

cheers Tim :) I found that too, shite he can't write comprehendable text lol

dammit, Im not looking forward to removing the box myself to find out the correct size lol

I love that site Brett, some of my fav builds are there :)

So much great info on there,the best for d-series!

out of interest all d-series vtec heads and bottoms are interchangeable correct?

As long as they're SOHC.

is there any benefit from using a newer head on an older model ?

Depends what head you're talking about.

Generally something newer is going to be in better condition though.

well i have a EG5 D16Y1 if i put a newer head on top (besides being newer and of course in better condition) would there be any power gains?
maybe even use a d17 one would that fit?

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Originally Posted by hitoriko

well i have a EG5 D16Y1 if i put a newer head on top (besides being newer and of course in better condition) would there be any power gains?
maybe even use a d17 one would that fit?

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Just noticed in your info to the left what you say your car is, an EG5 is actually an SI model not a VTI

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Originally Posted by ~Sp33~

I really like these, but they're hard to come by in manual. Apparently they're a bit of a weapon in the corners.

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yes, it feels like ur oversteering if youve never experienced 4ws before haha i remember my first drive omg it was so smooth n so much g force when i went right at an intersection at 30km/h, not saying its a gforce magnet just alot for a honda when taking simple corners lol

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Originally Posted by newpaddy3

Just noticed in your info to the left what you say your car is, an EG5 is actually an SI model not a VTI

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You sir need to learn more

EG5 = EG hatch Si from 92-93
EG5 = EG hatch Vti from 93-95

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Originally Posted by newpaddy3

Just noticed in your info to the left what you say your car is, an EG5 is actually an SI model not a VTI

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you cant be serious?

its a 1995 EG5 VTi 5 Speed besides having a SOHC Vtec, A VTi Badge and being registered as such i dont know how much more info i can give you...

Ha thanks TAI in before me

LOL I guess I have learnt something new today then :o

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Originally Posted by newpaddy3

LOL I guess I have learnt something new today then :o

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sorry paddy i just reread my post - sorry mate it prolly sounds worse than how i ment it its cool i was just j/k i hope you didn't take offence

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Originally Posted by hitoriko

sorry paddy i just reread my post - sorry mate it prolly sounds worse than how i ment it its cool i was just j/k i hope you didn't take offence

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It's all good mate :thumbsup:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by hitoriko

well i have a EG5 D16Y1 if i put a newer head on top (besides being newer and of course in better condition) would there be any power gains?
maybe even use a d17 one would that fit?

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Have you seen the specs from a d17? I'm pretty sure the bolt pattern is different to your regular D16 block. The internals might be interchangeable, but like i said, have you seen the specs? They're pretty abysmal. Considering you can get more power from what you already have.

I thought the d16y1 was one of the most powerful D's made, if there was one particular SOHC D with a slightly more aggressive camshaft the difference in power would be so negligible you wouldn't be able to notice the difference. Go aftermarket for sure.

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Originally Posted by ~Sp33~

Have you seen the specs from a d17? I'm pretty sure the bolt pattern is different to your regular D16 block. The internals might be interchangeable, but like i said, have you seen the specs? They're pretty abysmal. Considering you can get more power from what you already have.

I thought the d16y1 was one of the most powerful D's made, if there was one particular SOHC D with a slightly more aggressive camshaft the difference in power would be so negligible you wouldn't be able to notice the difference. Go aftermarket for sure.

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i was more thinking the heads as my car is about to hit 230 thou kms im considering a reco of the head with a more aggressive cam and a dyno tune, but i figured if there was a better head to use i would start with that

Neh, just stick with yours, and do a reco.

Y1 an Y8, in terms of power, only like 3hp difference, its not even noticeable... on different note, my mates eg5 doesnt pull as hard as my y8, guess its prbs due to age an kms, but both are pretty much same on paper, torque and power... im not sure what the difference b/w the two motors, but im assuming its the cylinder head design that makes the differnace....

Ps: i done a 0-100 run best run, 8.5 second :( do want a turbo kit, but no money, or get turbo car, :P

thanks guys i was just wondering thats all - plus a turbo setup wouldn't be all that costly would it?

depends if you cheap out on it, lol, different ways to approach it, A) turbo kit like greddy, peaks etc $8000-6000, B) Build your own kit $6000-$2000 C) ebay kits $1000 and also factor in tuning, add maybe another 1k
Rough estimates btw

Turbo is pretty much the only way to make power out of your D. Just have some fun and do cheap I/H/E. Ebay header, custom mild-steel mandrel-bent 2" cat-back with a $50 Super Cheap Auto S/S muffler lol. Best fun you'll get out of your D is coilovers though IMO.

Although recently I was impressed with the performance of my D16Y1 sedan. I dragged my mate who was driving his B16A CRX (which we know is healthy from dyno/compression) and I also had a passenger (he didn't) - he was 1 car length ahead of me by the time we reached 100KM/hour so I'm happy with that TBH. Maybe he was just shifting crap that night I dunno.

well im just doing my extractors next maybe a stage 1.5cam and a adj cam gear and thats as far as i'll go if i blow the engine it will be a b conversion so im not fussed the car handles alright i need to get rear swaybar and the braces in and that will surfice

Me personally, id work on suspensions 1st, improve on your driving skills, be more refined, than focus on engine mods, but i guess everyones different when it comes to modifications...

yes deffinatly my next upgrade will be suspension mods. make the car act totally different & whats the point doing these engine mods if you cant drive the car to its full potential because of limited suspension mods....

talkin about sussy
i hate the ride of stiff coilovers. anyone feel the same way?
i hate how those handaling bad boys needa be looked after well otherwise they would only last a few years blahs
my personal preferance would be a spring shock combo
maybe some koni spr.t with some eibach springs?

have i gone insane? this is for my next honda that is. my rubbish is auto

There's no reason why a spring/shock combo will ride any better than a set of coilovers. Coilovers should ride better because the spring and shock damper settings are properly mated. My Tiens have 32 damper adjustment settings.

rear sway bar, world of difference :)

oh dam, theres sum ASR with EK9 combo on sale atm for $400 2nd hand... really wanted to get em... but gotta pay rego an insurance 1st.... ARGHHHH!!!!!..... thats definite on a want list

It pays to to have good coilovers if you enjoy ur roads, lol.... basic coilovers like bc an k-sports will always be harsh ride.... compared to tein or bilstien

Thing is, ppl buy coilovers with very little knowledge on how they work, and to set them up.... i guess its more of a wank factor in todays terms, lower the car an thats it, lol

^^ Forsure,there's coilovers and there's coilovers...I reckon U need the 32 way damper control so they wont be a harsh ride.

When I get my coilovers in I'm gonna corner weight/balance the car.U do this by adjusting the height on scales,1 corner at a time.

im looking at the skunk2 sport shocks & the lowering springs. My shocks are a good 10yrs old & never been replaced. Dont really wanna fork out for coilovers so the spring/shock combo is a must for me. Any other opinions for what spring/shock combo around the price of the skunk2s?!?

IMO unless your car is doing track duties on a regular basis coilovers are a waste of time.

Better off replacing all your bushings ($400 bushes + labour), front and rear sway bars (im going type R's - about $150 - 200 each)) and a sports shock spring combo (1k for skunk2/tien/kyb) - then you have your extras like subframe braces and etc..

for 2k (avg price for a good set of coilovers) you could do almost all of the above if not more and have a better ride.

Im wanting my car to be streetable and trackable - so i'm looking to get a good set of KYBs and maybe skunk2 or tien springs the best of both worlds

I bought those Fulcrum coilovers that were for sale up in NSW. They were $590 delivered and are nice for street use, can take corners nice and quick but also go over speed humps etc.
For handling though I'd be upgrading tyres first, sway bars second, and then I'd consider the shock/spring or coil situation.


Going off that topic: Who has the most powerful (on dyno) N/A D-series?

isn't there a dyno thread with that listed?

FOUND LINK

Quote:

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Originally Posted by hitoriko

IMO unless your car is doing track duties on a regular basis coilovers are a waste of time.

Better off replacing all your bushings ($400 bushes + labour), front and rear sway bars (im going type R's - about $150 - 200 each)) and a sports shock spring combo (1k for skunk2/tien/kyb) - then you have your extras like subframe braces and etc..

for 2k (avg price for a good set of coilovers) you could do almost all of the above if not more and have a better ride.

Im wanting my car to be streetable and trackable - so i'm looking to get a good set of KYBs and maybe skunk2 or tien springs the best of both worlds

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Because sub-frame braces aren't a waste of time at all.

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Originally Posted by ~Sp33~

Because sub-frame braces aren't a waste of time at all.

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im going to assume you read the entire post.

my point is simple - 2k coilovers, will not yeld the same performance gain IF the rest of teh suspension isn't up to the task to suit. you get more from doing all the other suspension pieces and runing just a spring & shock combo and doing the rest

and if you think different thats fine, but from my experance with my 180sx this is my opinion

thats it.... dont relie on one componet of the car, u need everything else to work with it to make a whole package
Theres no denying that spring an shock combo is jus as effective as coilovers, but again, personal preference
2k can get you pretty good coilovers right there, lol, most owners, if they had to play with 2k, i think most would go coilovers straight out

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Originally Posted by hitoriko

my point is simple - 2k coilovers, will not yeld the same performance gain IF the rest of teh suspension isn't up to the task to suit.

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Right-o.

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Originally Posted by mugen_ctr

Theres no denying...

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Right-o.

Sp33 - im not going to start an arguement over this because you obviously dont have a clue.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ~Sp33~

There's no reason why a spring/shock combo will ride any better than a set of coilovers. Coilovers should ride better because the spring and shock damper settings are properly mated. My Tiens have 32 damper adjustment settings.

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Going off this statement then if all his bushes in his car are stuffed and cracked, he should spend 2000 buy coilovers and everything will be fine?

Right-O

Guys who cares, stop being keyboard warriors, you both have different oppinions with different experiences.

Don't try and convince anyone over the internet, things can be taken out of context.

Just try to be helpful and leave it at that.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by hitoriko

Sp33 - im not going to start an arguement over this because you obviously dont have a clue.



Going off this statement then if all his bushes in his car are stuffed and cracked, he should spend 2000 buy coilovers and everything will be fine?

Right-O

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If the bushings are all stuffed and cracked then the car shouldn't legally be on the road.

It's like saying, you're better off putting oil in the engine than spending hundreds of dollars buying an intake and exhaust.

Well duh. Performance modifications =/= keeping your car properly serviced.

misinformation is not helpful - which is what im getting at newpaddy. nothing in his posts has been informative at all

And its nothing like saying that

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you're better off putting oil in the engine than spending hundreds of dollars buying an intake and exhaust.

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Getting a set of coilovers doesn't mean your car will handle better. If anything it will handle and feel worse if all other parts of the suspension system aren't working together. Most people choose coilovers because they can say "i have coilovers"

But the choice is as always up to the individual and lets leave it at that - but i would like to know what you decide and the before/after and thoughts etc...

Hito

Quote:

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Originally Posted by hitoriko

misinformation is not helpful

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Miss information? I haven't said anything that isn't truth. I even went back and double checked the last few pages. Feel free to point it out so that i can clarify if you have miss interpreted my information.

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Getting a set of coilovers doesn't mean your car will handle better. If anything it will handle and feel worse if all other parts of the suspension system aren't working together.

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Ha, are you really debating on whether a set of coilovers are going to make your car handle better.

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Most people choose coilovers because they can say "i have coilovers"

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Funny enough, i think that most people who buy coilovers to say "i have coilovers" are probably the same people who probably can't tell the difference between a spring/shock combo and 2k worth of coilover.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by hitoriko

Getting a set of coilovers doesn't mean your car will handle better. If anything it will handle and feel worse if all other parts of the suspension system aren't working together.

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I'm going to have to side with Sp33. If you buy coilovers of course your car will perform better. However if you want to increase upon that you can modify with sway bars ect, ect.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ~Sp33~

Ha, are you really debating on whether a set of coilovers are going to make your car handle better..

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Yes, there isn't any point spending $2000 on coilovers if the rest of the suspension isn't up to the task, otherwise you way aswell throw a turbo on your engine with no intercooler and standard exhaust because you'll get the same result, thats to say, if all pieces of the system arent working together and setup correctly your not going to reap the full benefit and you'll only make more problems for yourself later.

What your saying is (at least from what you've stated), coilovers = performance. Its not that simple, everything in the suspension plays a part, im not saying that your completely wrong, im just saying that more details are needed about his setup. IE if he has upgraded the bushes, maybe a better set of LCAs, Swaybars etc.. then yes coilovers will be a great idea, provided the prep work is there for them. theres far better ways to improve your setup then just throwing coilovers in.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by hitoriko

Yes, there isn't any point spending $2000 on coilovers if the rest of the suspension isn't up to the task, otherwise you way aswell throw a turbo on your engine with no intercooler and standard exhaust because you'll get the same result, thats to say, if all pieces of the system arent working together and setup correctly your not going to reap the full benefit and you'll only make more problems for yourself later.

What your saying is (at least from what you've stated), coilovers = performance. Its not that simple, everything in the suspension plays a part, im not saying that your completely wrong, im just saying that more details are needed about his setup. IE if he has upgraded the bushes, maybe a better set of LCAs, Swaybars etc.. then yes coilovers will be a great idea, provided the prep work is there for them. theres far better ways to improve your setup then just throwing coilovers in.

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I get what you're saying now I think.

You recommend that he get sway bars/strut braces etc first so maximise the effect of his coilovers because it's cheaper to do them first and they're very important to achieve the best potential from your sussy setup?

replace rear trailing arm bushes, inspect from lca bushes, buy decent coilovers/shock and spring combo, rear sway bar/asr kit, nice wet handling road tyres

best money spent, Id rather my koni yellows to my buds jic's that make your arse leave the seat on the same mountain run... lol

edfc love that system, so bloody easy, definitely add fulcrum to fb or something for more info


102.5hp atw is my top hp reading with my d16y8 (perfect curve, no real room for improvement), keen to see higher in oz?

Anyone know if EK sedan front brakd pads and rotors are the same as EK4?

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Originally Posted by dougie_504

I get what you're saying now I think.

You recommend that he get sway bars/strut braces etc first so maximise the effect of his coilovers because it's cheaper to do them first and they're very important to achieve the best potential from your sussy setup?

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yes, exactly my point.

go to super cheap auto and look up the dba catalog :)

anyone got a D series gearbox to fit an EG Vti? need one fast

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Originally Posted by will13

anyone got a D series gearbox to fit an EG Vti? need one fast

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I have one buts its auto, lol lol

Quote:

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Originally Posted by will13

anyone got a D series gearbox to fit an EG Vti? need one fast

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Any D Series will fit but there are two types, both marked S20, the lesser one is marked P20-A000 has 2nd and 3rd geared differently plus a different final drive ratio, plus cast instead of steel bearing in the P20-B000 (which is the VTi box)

http://img236.imageshack.us/img236/8...yspecs32vs.jpg

Peter

would the gear ratios for 3rd gear, of the d15 cx box be better then the dx/lx?

Define 'better'.

Are the boxes even any different?

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Originally Posted by na-118

would the gear ratios for 3rd gear, of the d15 cx box be better then the dx/lx?

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The lower the ratio the longer the gear. So better for driving a long distance in 3rd yes

Quote:

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Originally Posted by markismaximus

I have one buts its auto, lol lol

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damnit lol

Quote:

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Originally Posted by jdm_b16a

Any D Series will fit but there are two types, both marked S20, the lesser one is marked P20-A000 has 2nd and 3rd geared differently plus a different final drive ratio, plus cast instead of steel bearing in the P20-B000 (which is the VTi box)

http://img236.imageshack.us/img236/8...yspecs32vs.jpg

Peter

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Correction - they all fit except for the Si gearbox

i just found out some time last week the d16y4 box is a B000. has exact same gearing as Y8 box but a slightly lower final drive...

has anyone with a totally worked d series....na or turbo......run the 1/4 mile yet ? OR any times from wakefield / other tracks ?

need to compared to all other setups lol

There's the POV guy yeah?

And bildi,he was on here a while ago http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ky7UxepxTXg

They are the 2 biggest d setups I've seen in AUS!

http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthr...-Final-Chapter

Cant remember if weq ever ran it though, cbf reading through the thread

Quote:

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Originally Posted by bennjamin

has anyone with a totally worked d series....na or turbo......run the 1/4 mile yet ? OR any times from wakefield / other tracks ?

need to compared to all other setups lol

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Dont think so and doubt there will be...

haha yeah

I would only do a big D-build if I won tats lotto and had so much money that I couldn't care where it was going...

What's a d15z2? Single or dual carby? I got one and it's gutless compared to the d15b4 I use to have in another eg.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Sexc86

Dont think so and doubt there will be...

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by dougie_504

I would only do a big D-build if I won tats lotto and had so much money that I couldn't care where it was going...

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Guys, you can get forged rods & vitara pistons from the US for under $1k aud. Only one cam to work with, so cam work will cost half the price. IMO the D is a perfect candidate for extracting power, however people get it in their heads that its going to cost through the roof, when in actual fact it aint.

Ive seen worked D16s pump out anywhere around 400-500whp, yeah i know that sounds crazy high for a 1.6l SOHC, but it is doable, & honestly that much power in a front wheel drive is just insane, id be mad happy with 150 - 200kw atws, thats a gearing changing traction breaker!!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by VTECnique

Guys, you can get forged rods & vitara pistons from the US for under $1k aud. Only one cam to work with, so cam work will cost half the price. IMO the D is a perfect candidate for extracting power, however people get it in their heads that its going to cost through the roof, when in actual fact it aint.

Ive seen worked D16s pump out anywhere around 400-500whp, yeah i know that sounds crazy high for a 1.6l SOHC, but it is doable, & honestly that much power in a front wheel drive is just insane, id be mad happy with 150 - 200kw atws, thats a gearing changing traction breaker!!

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Mate completely agree. However, Generally speaking, the culture in australia is to follow proven paths (especially those set by their close peers) rather then try something different. Also one of the major plus sides of a turbo D16 is low budget, and since there arnt many DIY backyard mechanics who can attempt a full blown boosted D16 eg.. pull down a motor, rebuild with new internals, fabricate plumbing, tune Ecu etc.... the only option is to pay a workshop, for most people the price is just too much and brakes the budget. Hence why you dont see many all out turbo D16 builds... and i doubt australia ever will.

Its one thing to budget just buying a part, but once you factor in.. Installation/tuning of the part into an existing setup, that budget easily blows out.

if its so cheap how come people dont do the pistons etc
so how many people on here have done it
havent seen one person post they have done these cheap mods to d series motors and get good power

and you dont need anything else to make the coilovers do their job
coilovers make the car totally different to any spring/shock set up
you have to get the correct coilover for your needs
spring choice is crucial for what you are going to use the car for

you dont need a bigger sway/bushes etc for the street
waste of money and time imo
occasional track yeah

Lan i can't understand your first paragraph. What are you trying to ask / say ?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by VTECnique

Guys, you can get forged rods & vitara pistons from the US for under $1k aud. Only one cam to work with, so cam work will cost half the price. IMO the D is a perfect candidate for extracting power, however people get it in their heads that its going to cost through the roof, when in actual fact it aint.

Ive seen worked D16s pump out anywhere around 400-500whp, yeah i know that sounds crazy high for a 1.6l SOHC, but it is doable, & honestly that much power in a front wheel drive is just insane, id be mad happy with 150 - 200kw atws, thats a gearing changing traction breaker!!

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if it is so cheap and makes good power
why arnt people doing this
lots of talk not enough doing in this thread

No one here has any high hopes of D-series, as pointed out, most ppl are sheeps, and are scared to try new things, which is why the states have much more hope in D-series, and have proven that D can make good power for what it is

I for one would boost my D, had i have the time and budget, but when the money an time comes around, definite yes to turbo D

Most ppl have the idea that B-series is the only way to go modding, but thats load of crap, D-series are good engine, just give it that extra boost, an it be as good as any B