Got my kit for about $70 when I was in HK. I think from Honda Australia you'll be looking around $100+Quote:
Originally Posted by UNA91
Printable View
Got my kit for about $70 when I was in HK. I think from Honda Australia you'll be looking around $100+Quote:
Originally Posted by UNA91
where did you buy from in HK Peter?Quote:
Originally Posted by Poeter
Bought from supergt
I think they're pretty cheap in the US as well.
http://www.jhpusa.com/store/pc/viewP...idproduct=4450
damn thats more than i thought... i looked on ebay and found this: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/OEM-Genui...ht_2667wt_1037
but not sure if it will fit the jdm k20a :S ...
That ebay ad looks like it's ONLY the gasket. It doesn't look like it includes the spark plugs seals and polished valve cover washer grommets.
yeah just thought maybe it'll be cheaper if i get that , then get the spark plug seals at the dealer, and do i really need the washer grommets?
Will i be able to run 17x8 with +29 offset without running camber? Anyone running similar or less offset?
A mate of mine runs 17x8.5 +31 advan rg II`s, with 225/45/17`s all round, unrolled guards, stock height and camber. He has very minimal rubbing in the rear when it is loaded up.Quote:
Originally Posted by UNA91
http://www.1010tires.com/WheelOffsetCalculator.asp
The 17x8 +29, will retract by 4mm. So you`ll be fine with either 215/45`s or 225/45`s at stock height and camber. If you find it rubs anywhere then roll the guards if necessary.
hey sydney ep3 owners, just wondering what insurance company are you guys with? how much are you paying,
just car's and nrma are the only ones that insure imports?
im with nrma but am not happy with them as fire and theft cover is only up to 10k cover. Fairly certain its the same with just cars
I'm with Shannon's. They are about the same price as just car but they're service is a little better.Quote:
Originally Posted by alanalan
You have to be 25+ though.
Paying $109 a month. You get 10% off with a cams license.
looks like it doesnt insure people whose under 25, was planning to put my dads name and mine,
What height are you planning to run?Quote:
Originally Posted by UNA91
IMO, running aftermarket wheels with stock height looks a tad strange, to me at least =P
Phil Lee mentioned in this thread: http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthr...el-Setup-Guide
... that from his experience 17x8 +38 is the most aggressive you can run without any poke or camber.
Note that what tyres you use will have a big effect.
Im running 17x8 +35 on my EP with 30mm lowering on 215/45r17 and this required the rear guards being rolled, and I'm running pretty aggressive camber (-2.5 up front). The camber is not necessary, but since I have passengers every now and then, I'd prefer to clear the guards completely. Better safe than scrubby! .. Ugh.
If you plan to run the stock 205/45r17 tyres, you'll get a little stretch, which might help with any rubbing when going over bumpy surfaces.
Back to the question.
17x8 +29 on stock height. Yes it will fit when your car is stationary, but it is very likely to rub, especially the rears once you get moving.
Might be wise to account for the possibility of rear passengers too :)
What wheels are you looking at getting bro?
Just Cars.Quote:
Originally Posted by alanalan
Fully Comp and feel like I'm getting ripped a BIG ONE.
Honestly, if it weren't for Mum, I'd be on 3rd Party Fire and Theft on Just Cars.
Easier on the budget, only if you trust your area :D
Just cars, $850 a year. I am under 25.
excess around $1000~ I think.
Was looking at some Wedsport SA70. My cars dropped pretty low, can maybe fit about half a finger in the gap. So I guess I would defs have to be running camber and rolling fenders if even +35 was a tight fit even on stock height. Perhaps i should be looking for something closer to stock wheel size, 17x7 +42 I think? I'm currently running 215/45 tyres, previously ran 205/45 but didn't really notice much of a difference in terms of stretch :/Quote:
Originally Posted by aRze
Has anyone on here used the Energy Suspension engine mount inserts? Have a feeling the stock mounts may be on their way out (at 100,xxx at the moment) and before I go put money into a new set of Hasports, thought I'd try the inserts first.
Been experiencing A LOT of steering rack squeaking lately. After some trouble shooting with my mechanic we came to work out that it only happens under throttle. Steering wheel movement without throttle is fine, no squeaks but heavy squeaking with throttle on. We've greased the rack inside the rubbers as everyone seems to do but still the issue, we're thinking that due to engine movement due to the weak mounts the engine movement is causing fouling on the steering rack rubbers and producing the increased squeaks.
Can anyone shed light on this? Has anyone else found this issue with wearing engine mounts and excessive engine movement? Any other tips for steering squeaks?
Man that's pretty good. I could of had that price with Just Car but only if I bumped the excess right up.Quote:
Originally Posted by TonyxTony
You sure that's right?
Do u know which mount is going? The inserts are only for the front and rear mounts so if the sides are going it won't help u.Quote:
Originally Posted by RiceMeister
Personally I'd just get new mounts. Do it right the first time.
Ahh, definitely not 17x8 +29 wheels. Although nice wheels those Wedsport's are :)Quote:
Originally Posted by UNA91
You looking at the ones on ebay?
Closer to stock wheel dimensions will be hassle-free.
Yeah, the wedsports were on eBay; I've been looking around for a while waiting for the right wheel to come by xD But it seems most of them are also staggered set-ups :\ Guess I'll keep waiting around haha. Just would like to keep my height cause i like the way it sits right now... tho i just wish the chassis design would allow the mid pipe to sit higher...
Mate, same here? What exhaust you running?
I have an RM01a and all that thing wants to do is make love to short, dinky speedbumps.
I guess if it's staggered, you could go wider up front, Japanese tuner style ^_^
Though you can't rotate wheels and all that if you do so.
What mods to your suspension have you done?
Most of the mods were done by the previous owner, so not completely sure, but taking apart some bits, I found the exhaust was Apexi N1; and every time it scrapes i grit my teeth haha
Not much done on suspension, coilovers set pretty stiff, but i got used to it lol, sorta adds to the fun :\ also thinking of getting a stiffer rear sway bar, and deciding to get headers or not... :P of course it all comes down to money :(
Check BYP developments here on the forum they have PLM headers that make more power than the J's racing header by about 8kw and they are cheap also. I got one also and saw the dyno difference between the two on their facebook page.Quote:
Originally Posted by UNA91
Dude WTF?Quote:
Originally Posted by TonyxTony
I'm with Just cars $1200 excess $1000
39 here
Yah wtf. I'm 21 and paying only a little under $2k with excess of $1k.Quote:
Originally Posted by Lukezen27
Sorry guys, seems that just car is such a huge rip off. Understandable if your under 25 and cant get else where. Lukezen; Try shannons they will prob charge around the same as just car but you will have a lower excess. If not look through a broker.Quote:
Originally Posted by Lukezen27
Tony,
It's not fire and theft or something like that?
Way too cheap for a just car quote lol.
+1 everyone says they're paying just under 2kQuote:
Originally Posted by Azz86
From memory i pay $1186 annually, full comp, excess is $500. Insured through Shannons. I`m 29 though.
I am yet to tell them i have a cams license, i never knew i could get 10% off :p
At the time, i think Just car wanted $1300.
I'm paying $1200 with Shannons.
Anyone here rolling on 18's???
I'm looking into a new wheel/tyre setup and am interested to see how many ppl have 18's.
ohhh nice upgrading already pimp =)
VIP style baby :p
Still contemplating if I should get them though. Most likely I'll have to buy new tyres for them. As I'm finding it quite hard to source cheap second hand tyres in either 215/40/18 or 205/40/18's.
I remember one of the guys from here up in Sydney was running 18s. Might have been b16a2?
i had 18s. 18x7.5 rolling 225/40/18.Quote:
Originally Posted by RPS.13
i would stick to 17 tho. i felt handling better on 17s.
Thanks for the info guys. It's really just for looks atm. The price of new tyres is kind of swaying me not to go ahead with it. All up, I'd be looking at $1320 wheels plus new tyres. (I don't really want to fork out $$$ for brand new tyres, on an aggressive set up)
would you guys recommend just cars or shannons?
-quality service?
justcars - quality of service is POS
When you make a claim, they will use the cheapest parts available rather than doing a proper repair.
I never made a claim through Just Car when I was with them, for my previous car. I changed to Shannons, simply coz they were cheaper. But all the times i have called them, they have been very knowledgeable. And also call me back promptly when following matters up. Shannons has the choice of your own repairer. I was able to supply my own parts for the EP and the 180sx.
Off topic, I contacted the shop that fitted my alarm for my EP. They said they can fit and supply a new Mongoose central locking door actuator motors for $90. I was going to DIY it, but for $30-40 odd dollars more for the labour. I'm just going to pay to get it done.
Ive been trying to find a place overseas that sell the viper alarms but am having no luck at all, fcuk paying $600 for it here...
On another front picking up my EP3 tomorrow but wont be able to register is until the 24th :(
Not sure what model you're after but amazon.com has quite a few to choose from, ranging anywhere from $80-300 dollars. Looks like most of they ship here. You just need to find out how much shipping is.Quote:
Originally Posted by JDM EP3
Nice :thumbsup: another EP in melbourne. Congrats!
I made a claim through Just Car with my old Tegra.Quote:
Originally Posted by alanalan
They had to respray the car and they used dodgy paint. Looked good for about 12 months then went all blotchy.
Wouldn't recommend using them.
Thanks manQuote:
Originally Posted by RPS.13
Yeah I checked amazon for the 5704 but they ask like $300 with another $100 shipping wtf?? Some other guy who ships international has it for $198 but something hasnt let me add it to the cart. Will be nice to drive the EP tomorrow even if just for a little with just the unregistered permit back to home, Ill hit vtec some where along the way :D
lol isnt the paint the cheapest part of the job?Quote:
Originally Posted by Azz86
Probably cheaper than the labour costs for the actual job yeah. Sign of a pretty dodgy panel beater IMO. It looked like absolute crap when it was first sprayed too. Had swirl marks all over it. Not sure if this is normal but it had to be sent to a detailer to get fixed up. Then they mixed the wipers blades up so when they turned on it hit the edge of the windscreen.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikeyy168
Probably the worst service I've ever had. Just saying lol.
Anyone know where i can find the part numbers for the clutch master and slave cylinders?
Been seeing alot more ep3s lately in Brisbane, even more than dc5r's! its always nice driving beside them and giving them a friendly thumbs up!
Can anyone recommend a reputable import dealer to purchase an EP3 Type R through? Looking to trade my current vehicle . . . interestate is no problem (Sydney, Melbourne, etc)
Img, search it up. As for trading don't think theyre too keen for a trade since they only import jap and luxury to sell.Quote:
Originally Posted by RH9
I have noticed that too. Since I bought mine in Feb. I seen at least 5 more EP3 around sunnybank area/city. Silver, White, Red.Quote:
Originally Posted by UNA91
haha yeah, lots in the sunnybank area, chances are you've probs seen mine too haha. But ive also seen some up Indooroopilly and Toowong area. I know some of you are on ozhonda somewhere :P
I heard a rumour that there is going to be one on the Sunny Coast shortly too . . .
Try here mate,Quote:
Originally Posted by will13
http://www.hondaoriginalparts.com/ho...&block_03=9511
Does anyone know if there is some sort of trick to have the lights inside the car turn on when the door is opened?
Flick the dome light switch to the middle?
Quote:
Originally Posted by JDM EP3
Quote:
Originally Posted by Symphorced
LOLs!!!
Yeah I have but it either goes on or off, if I close the door the light stays on, if i leave it off the light doesnt come on when I open the door. Dont know if there is some sort of trick but I havent had much time with the car since I got it on Saturday still waiting to register the car atm.Quote:
Originally Posted by Symphorced
The light stays on for about 30 seconds after you close the door. Courtesy light.Quote:
Originally Posted by JDM EP3
It also goes off if you leave the door open for too long. To save battery I guess.
it also goes on when you pull the key out after you have turn your car off.
Doesnt work for me, when I open the door it doesnt come on.Quote:
Originally Posted by Azz86
Doesnt happen to me but Ill check to see if this happens or not when I jump in tomorrow.Quote:
Originally Posted by stienerv2
Have you ever seen the light come on when door is selected?
Might be a good idea to check out the switches inside the door. I've had a switch get stuck on the rubber boot before. Would be a good idea to stick a meter across the terminals too. Hopefully the electronics are ok.
Do any of you Melbourne EP3 guys have some spare OEM front brake lines that you would like to sell/rent to me? PM me if so.
Is there a switch for that or something?Quote:
Originally Posted by Azz86
But not when I open the door, the switch doesnt look stuck maybe there is something that Im missing
I'll chuck up a message on the Melbourne EP3 FB page for you. Got a whole 14 members now haha!Quote:
Originally Posted by chargeR
Yeh. Just checked my EP. There is a slide switch which actually isn't marked. It says on / off at each end of the switch. The middle position is the door selection. Is that what you meant?Quote:
Originally Posted by JDM EP3
Does anyones 2nd gear scratch/grind when going from 1st to 2nd? it doesn't feel as smooth as the other gears; Its almost like a 2 click shift and feels like a mini grind lol
I have to always make sure its in gear, but some times I just wanna flick it into gear like I can do with the others and so it grinds and it makes my heart sink abit :(
haha, lol.Quote:
Originally Posted by UNA91
I recall a similar problem with mine last year. I noticed as the weather got colder, it would become harder to shift into 2nd in the mornings. For a few months, I stopped shifting into 2nd in the first 3-4 gear changes in my morning travels. I used to shift from 1st to 3rd, once the gear box warmed up, the problem went away.
I changed the gear box oil later on in the year and I haven't had any issues since.
Maybe look at changing you gear box oil? If you haven't already.
I feel like such an idiot guys didn't realise the light was the one behind the drivers seat and not the little map light at the frontQuote:
Originally Posted by Azz86
Same thing happened to me. Couldn't change into second during mornings, crunched every now and again and even had it popping out of gears sometimes lol. Changed MTF and gearbox felt brand new.Quote:
Originally Posted by RPS.13
Haha. No worries.Quote:
Originally Posted by JDM EP3
Yea, my 2nd didn't shift in ages ago, especially on a cold start, i would skip 2nd too haha changed to Honda MTF and it was all fine, but the 2nd gear still seemed notchy and grinds abit when I shift into it.
Yep seems that I feel that notchiness in second gear too even when warmed up, should change the oil too.Quote:
Originally Posted by UNA91
By the way does anyone know if you can transfer the HID ballasts off the JDM headlights onto the ones that are replaced with for the compliance?
The lights replaced at compliance would've been halogen, not HID. Halogens don't use ballasts to draw power.
Yeah I get that there halogen what I'm asking is if I can fit the ballasts and globes to the new housings off the old jdm lightsQuote:
Originally Posted by Symphorced
I heard if you speak to your importer before they comply the car they can arrange to leave the HID's in place for you . . .
I tried this with the guy that did the compliance he said that if DOTARS dont come out to inspect the car for compliance he would leave the HID's in and not replace the headlights to ADR standards, apparently the guy came and checked them so I now have two sets of Pre-FL headlights. Wish they had got FL versions instead.Quote:
Originally Posted by -JC-
Alrighty.. this is so dam random but kinda urgent and didnt think it was necessary to start a new thread so..
Driving along today in the pouring rain and this happens:
-Speedo drops to 0
-Check engine light on
-Battery Light on.
-Power Steering gone. (Light on as well obviously)
-Then when i went to get onto the highway.. I couldnt go any higher than 4th gear. Didnt crunch or anything going into 5th or 6th.. it just stopped. Was like it was a 4 speed:/
All belts are good.. getting the rac around my place to have a look soon but just seeing if any else has had this problem???
Cheers
*Again.. Apologies for posting in the middle of a conversation.
*By belts i mean alternator.
Haha thanks mate, that's 14 chances.Quote:
Originally Posted by Symphorced