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Thanks mate, I was trying to avoid the fleabay, but I guess thats the only real option. When you installed your tweets, did you remove the factory mesh on the covers so you could display them a little, I'm keen to find out how hard that mesh is to remove, and what they are going to look like once its off . . . its all about the detail.Quote:
Originally Posted by Perry
Anyone know where I can find pre made flanges to weld onto my cat? as above tried fleabay also but couldnt really find anything.
I have some v-band style flanges and short flexes all in 2.5. Pm if ur interested!
isn't the skunk2 the same shape as the oem knob? I currently have the FN/FD round one but just thought i would try something differentQuote:
Originally Posted by Philip Lee
I havent got around installing mine, the mesh is easy to take out its like little clips to hold them in, I did try testing fitting aftermarket tweeters to the cover and you can get away of not using the mesh part but leaving it in makes it a more stock look.Quote:
Originally Posted by -JC-
Your local exhaust shop should be able to help you out. Or cut the ends off your test pipe.Quote:
Originally Posted by JDM EP3
Sweet, thanks again for your help mate. Just in the process of stockpiling the bits and pieces that I need before I get started. I have a customer of mine CNC cutting the spacers this week, then its ordering the tweeter covers, dynamat, some new wiring (most of my system is pre-wired from being installed in my last car, but some will need replacing) and some eggshell foam to lay on the inner doorskin behind the speaker itself . . . probably the biggest install I have taken on as a DIY, but should be easier than the one in my Mrs' camry given that I had to build the wiring for it from scratch. I'll let you know how I get on.Quote:
Originally Posted by Perry
Front Parker lights and Rear Number Plate lights are T10's yeah? So these are what I am after?
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/4pcs-T10-...ht_2305wt_1144
Yes but i wouldn't go to ebay for that. Sometimes they aren't as bright
Skunk 2 is thinner. I drove one on my friend's DC5 and I thought it was too small for my hands, and my hands aren't huge.Quote:
Originally Posted by UNA91
How does the ball shape shifter feel?
I've considered changing too, but every time i get into the car, Im reminded of how great the OEM feels.
blox racing sphere shiftknobs.
Skunk2 is same shape as DC2R gear knob, not same as DC5/EP3.
haha ball shape feels nice, i usually shift like sort of holding a wineglass sort of grip lol so it fills my palm nicely, tho ive never ever tried any other shapes, so was just wondering how a change would feel :\Quote:
Originally Posted by aRze
i like the little neo finish blox racing ones.
All this talk about knobs . . . . nah seriously, the OEM is the best shifter I have ever had the pleasure of caressing. Did I mention that the EP3 is a god damn fantastic car?
My Mrs caught be in the garage the other night talking to it . . .
did she give you a talking to?Quote:
Originally Posted by -JC-
My wife use to get jealous cause I polished it all time!
lol!!! it is that much of an awesome machineQuote:
Originally Posted by -JC-
She wouldn't talk to me for 48 hours until I told her what I said . . . . .
So I told her I said "I love you so much more than my fiancé"
I think I might get sex again by about the year 2017
Your knob or the car?Quote:
Originally Posted by Nepolian
Wait . . . don't answer that.
Nismo GT500 urethane shift knob, is where the moneys at. Plus its black, rubbery and it sometimes vibrates. My missus loves it :p
Nah in all honesty the main reason I got it, is because I hate metal shift knobs in summer.
By far the best shift knob I've ever owned. Great shape and nicely weighted.
c'mon guys... you know you lost sight of who you are as a man when you take car enthusiasm to a new level
get off this forum and use those fingers on something other than a keybord/shiftknob ;)
You guys crack me up :P; on to a different question...
Lately after giving my car a good clean and not driving it for a week, i've been getting some sort of low dull metal to metal like grinding noise every time I apply the brakes while creeping, I can also sometimes almost feel it slightly in the pedal. I looked at my rotors but i don't any signs of abnormal patterns or wear on them, also looked at my brake pads and they look like they have alot of meat on them still.. however I haven't taken apart the caliper to see the pads itself cause the bolts were too tight... I hope it isn't grinding away my rotors... but it brakes fine like it always has.
Oh the sound is exactly like when the rotors are rusted on the surface, but mine isn't rusted and doesn't go away :(
Are you sure its the fronts it could be the rears are worn I had the same issue found out it was the rears were worn out.
Not sure, i have slotted front rotors if that makes a difference, but i just assumed it was the fronts cause I tried driving slowly with the handbrake up and the sound wasn't there :\
better to take the wheels off and check I do recall my inner pads was wearing unevenly.
^ took both front wheels to check the disks, but nothing abnormal, no marks or signs of shimming hmm, maybe it was always there but never noticed... cause i recently got an exhaust leak fixed so its abit quieter now and i can hear more cabin noise lol
also, is there a major difference between 60a and 70a motor mounts in terms of vibrations and wheel hopping? Looking to replace my front driver side mounts cause its starting to crack.
If the sound is not there when you have the handbrake up, wouldn't that suggest that the noise comes front the rear?? Sometimes the rear pads don't sit right due to the piston not being wound in right or simply as suggested by perry, just pads wearing unevenly!
The drivers side mount don't really crack, I splits. Since it oiled filled, it is held by a very thin layer of rubber. 60a or 70a you will get vibrations! To assist with wheel hopping and keeping the vibrations limited, I would buy a mount kit and change rear and passengers and leaving drivers out for the street and leave for track/strip. Driver side is what causes the most vibrations.
I've broken 3 thus far hahahaQuote:
Originally Posted by Nepolian
POWER PUSH
Hm, what would you suggest as a daily driven car, as i'll need to replace it sooner or later anyway since its well... splitting. Should I just go oem? I'm looking for something that'll last since the front mounts usually take the most abuse.
Also, is there any advantages in running an s2k size oil filter?
Best if you can ride or sit in other EP's with different mounts and see what you find bearable.Quote:
Originally Posted by UNA91
Some guys find OEM is the only comfortable option.
Other I've seen on clubrsx run 75a in their dailys and are ok with it. Crazy americans...
I'm running hardrace at the moment. Yeh it does vibrate a bit at first but its dials down.. and you get used to it.
Im thinking of running some hasport 70a mounts, anyone else running these as well?
I'm running Hasport 62a's in mine. As mentioned above, the initial vibrations will dissipate over time and the smaller ones you'll get over them. Some will come and go every now and then. I have a vibration which has come back recently, but it only appears if I go over 103km on the freeway. So its not overly annoying, turn up the music a bit and no worries.
I think the 70a mounts would be a bit too harsh/over kill if you car is a daily. Weekend car maybe. For a track car, I don't see any issues.
I had mugen and energy front rear inserts. The whole car was shaking enough already. Gives you a good wrist and arse massage.
Ok, I am a bit in the middle, sometimes I daily the car to work other times I dont, anything between the 62's and 70's?Quote:
Originally Posted by RPS.13
Hmm, i've heard innovative mounts are good and not as hard as hasports and others, might just go with 60a street mounts, Vibration will add to the character of the car I guess haha just want something that'll last. Anyone know where to get them besides ebay?
Ive got innovativeQuote:
Originally Posted by UNA91
Painful on Vibration but gear change's wicked good and i don;t have to worry about braking the OEMs
^ did you get the full set? i'm just looking to replace the driver front ones
also. LOL i just read about people using 3m window weld to fill in their mounts... seems to be a fairly common "mod",but also pretty ghetto; yet it has nothing but good impressions from it... might give it a try...
Parts for sale in sale thread. More parts to come in near future
When? When?
Ok guys, so I came home all excited about my new T10 LED's that I bought to replace the front parkers and rear number plate lights, got reading my workshop manual and I've discovered that this really isn't a 5 minute job. Workshop manual tells me that to do the fronts, I need to remove the inner guards . . . and by the size of the gap I would have to get my fingers into to do it from the top, I'm guessing this is the truth.
The number plate lights it tells me to remove the lower trim panel . . . which requires removal of the entire hatch trim . . . once again, I have a bad feeling this is true lol. I have found DIY's that say you just slide the housing across, but mine appear to have foam sealant on them (looks factory) which prevents them from sliding, and if its there, I probably want it to stay there yeah?
Thoughts?
The park lights you can access with out having to take off anything. They're just in a really awkward position to twist back in. Getting them out is fairly easy.
Parker easy to do if u have small hands. If they are chunky. You'd probably have no chance. U new to jack up the car remove the wheel trim (not completely) enough to get hand in. Rears, u may be lucky to be able to slide the Parker covers off. Sometimes they're caked on and I've seen people break them trying. Just take a little time and care! Worst scenario, trim will have to come of.
Yeah front parkers u gotta work ur lil puppies and twist it shut. I got chunky hands and its annoying but do able. It's all in the hips. Easy to come off tricky to put back in
Oh man. Last time I had to change my parkers it took me a good 15 mins. So hard to get to!
For the rear number plate lights, i've found the best method without breaking any clips was to remove the entire door trims. If you access it from the outside you may break the housing clips.
The way i changed my license plate light was I pushed up the housing just to loosen it up cause there is weathering strip around it and over time it gets old and start to stick. Then pry the sides as it is held by clips and it should pop off. Then you can unclip the harness in the housing to access the bulb. Be careful not to let the harness fall into the hole! otherwise you'll have to remove the panels to get it back out lol
Yeh first time can be tight!
I had no problems with mine, just pushed the license plate light cover to one side and then pushed it up and out.
Takes effort first time ^^
had a bitch of a time getting to the rear licence plate bulbs first time round, couldnt do the sliding/lifting technique, so I took a thin paperclip and straightened it out, lifted the plastic cover with my nail and used the straightened paperclip to unclip the cover latch. worked perfect
Hey Dan is your car back on the road yet?
How many of you guys are using their car as a daily? Im thinking of buying another el cheapo for a daily.
Also does anyone know where I can source a rear bar or rear lip?
daily hereQuote:
Originally Posted by JDM EP3
I never have two cars going at once lol
Thanks for the tips guys. My hands must be waaaaaaaaaay bigger than some of you, I could only get one finger to the parker housing . . . only ended up taking 20 mins to take the front wheels off, remove the inner guard (or some of it) and get them done.
The rear is proving to be a little more difficult, tried removing the boot trim and that thing is just ridiculous, afraid to pull too hard on any one part of it in case it breaks . . . might have to try the paperclip method from the outside!
JDM EP3 - I use mine as a daily, surprisingly easy to live with as a daily, then again, I've only had it 3 weeks, so maybe the novelty will wear off? Can't see it at this point, but stranger things have happened.
Quote:
Originally Posted by -JC-
I am considering getting a Ek or EG civic for a daily, not that the EP3 is hard to live with as a daily but I have a shitty ass carpark in the city and they are so tight, ended up tearing part of my rear lip getting caught on a metal support bar for the roller door didnt notice it there tore it on the seam where it attaches to the rear bar under the wheel arch and seeing that I need to park really close to the wall to get out with out hitting the car next to me with the door I am considering this option so I dont destroy my EP3.Quote:
Originally Posted by Lukezen27
Yeah sometimes when parking in the city I wish I didn't sell my EG5 but two rego's and so on all at up to $$$$$Quote:
Originally Posted by JDM EP3
daily here as well.... i try to get to and back from work during non peak time :) ...Quote:
Originally Posted by JDM EP3
Daily and track mine.
There's a rear bumper here: http://forum.jdmstyletuning.com/show...ghlight=bumper
yeah that's on here too but it has been cut and has a hole for the towhook am considering it though how necessary is it to have a towhook when tracking?Quote:
Originally Posted by RPS.13
Not very essential considering we already have a tow hook at the rear in a very obvious location. But I doubt there would be too many rear bars coming up for sale. I have just the rear lip as a spare if you're interested.
Mine's my daily too.
Enjoying it a lot!
Just A LOT more careful with it than i was with camry =P
Quick question guys, where abouts is everyone buying parts for there ep3 from? e.g headers,gruppem intake and other ep3 parts. Thank you
All over the place traders here or you can try jesse streeter who brokers stuff from Japan at cost+shipping+commission direct from the place you want the parts or from yahoo jp auctionsQuote:
Originally Posted by nikolaz01
Cheers buddy, really after the gruppe m intake but i can't seem to find anyone selling it.Quote:
Originally Posted by JDM EP3
+1 for Jesse Streeter
Can come across great deals on Yahoo auctions japan =D
jdm concept and jdmyard are really popular and provide great service.
xposed is a gruppe m specific distributor i believe
depending on what headers you could ask BYP or Toda who can also cater to your tuning needs
kseriesparts also stocks a lot of goodies
can also check fleabay, but make sure it's genuine. take care of your car :)
EDIT: try xposed.com.au for gruppe m
also have a look at jdmconcept
Quote:
Originally Posted by aRze
Thank you very very much kind sir, off to shopping i go :)
Good info man looked at xposed and the price is slightly better for the gruppeM from there will be getting mine soon now, btw anyone know what brands or where to get the silicone hoses for the ep3 intake?Quote:
Originally Posted by aRze
http://firesport.com.au/honda-civic-...--ad215363.htmQuote:
Originally Posted by JDM EP3
heres one if youre looking for the rear/front lip
All good Tim, it runs sweet now!Quote:
Originally Posted by Symphorced
Use my EP3 as a daily. I sit in a lot of traffic so dont go past 60kph until i hit the freeway. Its not very good at slow speeds like my old Civic (EK/EJ) which i think is a much better daily ..EP3 is much slicker when you drive it harder!
Anyone know whats the bulb used for the projector headlights? my front left headlight doesnt work no more~ i assume its the bulb but the alarm systems wired though to the same headlight, and normally it should be wired to the parkers instead
Anyone find their recaros squeaky when going over bump/bumpy roads? Mine squeaks and clicks, not very obvious but knowing its there just drives me nuts haha. Also my drivers side seat hip bolsters feel really loose, not the actual foam but the plastic. I could wiggle it back and forth. The same as the rails on my seats
Mine are fine and didnt do anything like you describe, although I have now changed to a vanner tunner special ultra low seat rail, feels great sitting so low and being able to dump the steering wheel even lower and have a clear view of the cluster.Quote:
Originally Posted by UNA91
could be rust, and/or warped plastic.Quote:
Originally Posted by UNA91
Pretty sure OEM bulbs are D2R.Quote:
Originally Posted by Icebox
are the D2Rs the same ones that go into the facelift ones ? just wanna make sure before i DIYQuote:
Originally Posted by Symphorced
good to know you like it.Quote:
Originally Posted by JDM EP3
Tegiwa sells the silicone intake pipes. (Should have told me earlier, I could have ordered one with your other part).Quote:
Originally Posted by JDM EP3
Again +1 for Jesse Streeter, I got my gruppe m through him and saved well over $300compared to the cheapest local price. Shipped via ems too.
Nice :thumbsup:Quote:
Originally Posted by JDM EP3
Yeah I should have ordered it at the time, oh well, also with the gruppeM I have seen them on xposed for $931, how much did you pay for yours again?Quote:
Originally Posted by RPS.13
thanks man :thumbsup:Quote:
Originally Posted by Philip Lee
eeek! 1k for an intake :s
thats some moola