You can perhaps try checking HOnda UK, http://www.lingshondaparts.com/honda...alogue_C01.phpQuote:
Originally Posted by TonyxTony
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You can perhaps try checking HOnda UK, http://www.lingshondaparts.com/honda...alogue_C01.phpQuote:
Originally Posted by TonyxTony
Does anyones ep3 struggle to crank after maybe 5 days of not starting? Mine took a good 5 secs to crank and then started to rumble and my revs were going nuts, so i turned it off, and tried again and it was normal after...
Yep mine does that after 3 days of not starting it because of my alarm killing the battery.
Oh what tha **** never realize that lmao. ShitQuote:
Originally Posted by Perry
Hasn't happened to me yet but
yeah you did spot me, i tried to get next to you at the lights to say Hi but you drive so fast or maybe its just me driving so slow~~ haha :eek:Quote:
Originally Posted by Perry
Haha it just scared the hell out of me cause when i finally got it going, it started shaking like hell; felt like a rusty lawnmower or a really old rotary engine lolQuote:
Originally Posted by Perry
Anyway, I also have another problem. Upon start up, my alternator belt squeaks, its not very loud, but its there and goes away when the engine is warm. I know its the belt cause i rubbed a tiny amount of grease and it stopped immediately. I see no wear and the belt is still tightly on.
What could be the problem? has the tensioner gone bad or should i just replace the belt?
I think it was the flow of traffic next time ill slow down more.Quote:
Originally Posted by Icebox
Lmao, spotted like three different EP3's last night at Canley Vale.
For once it wasn't me. I'm at Canley a lot
LOL! i live in canley
and there's a few of them around
Anyone know if the valve cover gaskets and spark plug seals are the same for K series engines? Or is ours model specific?
K20 engines will all have the same ones. Not sure on K24s though...Quote:
Originally Posted by UNA91
My belt squeals on startup too. Worse when it's a cold morning. I was just going to replace the belt. There is an arrow which indicates belt tension. Maybe check that is in the correct place?Quote:
Originally Posted by UNA91
Yeah when its cold and I start the car I get the starter motor gear grind and when its really cold it seems to take longer to start. This car hates starting in the cold.
yeah it squealed on me just now... sigh hurts me everytime... no way to fix it is there?
Mine too..Quote:
Originally Posted by Azz86
just deal with it lol
Speaking of spotted ep3's, I saw what looked like a fob ep3 in clayton the other day
I don't know of I fixed mine or not but I removed the bolt of the upper pulley (one that sits the highest) and greased up the bearings. I haven't heard any squeaking since then. But not sure since squeaking depends on weather, humidity etc...Quote:
Originally Posted by Lukezen27
my belt was making heaps of noises too... got my replace and i only hear a little bit.
taking all precautions, parking as far away from other cars as possible in the most discreet corner of the parking lot. and still someone manages to scratch my rear lip. the mark is about the size of the capslock key and its right on the lip of the wheel arch, but it still irritates the ****ing sanity out of me. anyone in sydney can recommend a good spray painter?
hey guys.. need soem help
when you guys first got your ep3's
did your cars come with the original headunit.. Gathers VXD-032mi
is there a way to like reset the setting on that thing so i can listen to the radio..
i only get the frequency between 70. something to 90. something
ive never seen an ep3 with stock headunit, dont even know what it looks likeQuote:
Originally Posted by kenny07
ill show you a pic.. just gonna look for one on google
lol
this is it!
http://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.php?t=562841
that's what i got.. but i found out how to change the frequency..
i need fm converter
its got dvd, nav and tv on it!
i cant watch anything on tv but i can sometime listen to the audo for channel 7!
LOL
Cool, only problem is the lack of tuning on it. I had a Mini Disc player Single Din unit on mine? Wtf?? People still using mini disc back in 2003?Quote:
Originally Posted by kenny07
Tore it out of course.
Mines a Doule din with mini disc too plus CDQuote:
Originally Posted by JDM EP3
hahah
I should upgrade but I'm lazy
Yeah i really hate taking off the face plate for the console reall bitch to take offQuote:
Originally Posted by Lukezen27
Worst when I had to solder each and every wire for my DVD headunit in that crowded confined space because the wire harness I got did not match.Quote:
Originally Posted by JDM EP3
yeah ive got the double din..
does your navi work?
I'm going to change my valve cover gaskets, and spark plug seals soon when i receive it since its leaking. I need to apply some silicone sealant (insert hondabond, permatex, gasket maker etc.) around the edges of the gasket.. but do I apply onto the valve cover, or on the engine block where the cover would sit??
Also do i put the cover back on while the sealant is curing or do i wait till its dry and rubbery?
I know on B series they didnt use and gasket sealant for the valve cover, unsure what the process is for K series though.Quote:
Originally Posted by UNA91
Can anyone confirm what OBD2 protocol these things of ours utilise? I'm keen on getting a wireless OBD2 reader to send the info to my iPhone. I've worked out that it has to be wifi (not bluetooth) as the iPhone's bluetooth won't talk to these devices, but I'm stuck on how to find out what OBD protocol they employ?
I just figure if I'm not interested in having 3 pods sitting up atop the dash, this would be a good way of finding out whats doing in the engine bay without having to get all permanent modification man on my shit.
Have you considered - http://arkdesign-us.com/products/ele...unction-dash-2
Not sure if you already looked into this device - http://www.plxdevices.com/product_in...=GSSTBLUETOOTH didn't look into Mich but there's no indication that it wouldn't work.
Woow the arkdesign one look cool.
x2 . . . I think you just spent some of my tax return for me . . .
has anyone ever used J's racing engine mounts or have experience with them?
because my engine mounts are due for a change, so need to start looking
from what ive heard, J's are pretty stiff. it supplies all 4 mounts but your car vibrates during idle.
mugen is in between OEM and J's. no vibrations. but only supplies 3 (drivers side, passengers side and front). you can change the back ones if u want but really, the first side to go will be the drivers side so thats the most important one.
thats what i heard as well, however, its only 20% stiffer from OEM? and oem stiff ratings at 58 on average.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikeyy168
but surprising the first mount to go wasnt my drivers side it was my front mount, so im kinda deciding on which mount to go with,
the girlfriend doesnt want the car to be vibrating like crazy, which is steered me away from hardracing and hasport mounts but oh well~
Icebox I've been in EP3's with Hassport and J's I think J's isnt that bad as oppose to Hasp. Hassport feels a bit more stiffer meaning more vibrations.Quote:
Originally Posted by Icebox
Thanks for the feedback Perry, i was leaning towards J's Racing ones as they offered the whole set, but vibration factors in big time in which ones howeverQuote:
Originally Posted by Perry
to bad Mugen only has 3 if it offered the rear would have jumped on the boat ages ago haha
If your just using it for daily driving and occasional track get mugen plus insert for the missing one which eliminates the high vibrations.Quote:
Originally Posted by Icebox
Makes me wish I did a proper DIY article when I put mine in . . . could have made life much easier for you dude. I usually use lip blade terminals and just plug them directly into the ISO harness plug for whatever car I'm installing the radio into. Mine was easy as we only needed power, earth and accessory power, everything else was run from the HU, processor or amp, but I have done them where you have to use the original speaker wires etc, and lip blades are the shit, they plug straight in and I have never had one fall out yet.Quote:
Originally Posted by UNA91
Sorry bit late on the advice.
I think thats gonna have to be the way I go. I think I'd prefer to replace mounts say, once a year, than have to live with a daily that rattles like . . . . . something that rattles a lot, every time I drive it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Perry
Haha oh wells, it's all goods, when i got the car it came with a crappy cd player that kept skipping. Only problem is that I can't find a dimmer switch that dims the display when the headlights are turned on, so the headunit gets pretty bright at night and lights up my face. I just changed to a dark background and sorta just got used to it.Quote:
Originally Posted by -JC-
Also I'm running Hasport 62a front and rear mounts and a DIY sikaflex filled transmission mount. There was quite some vibration compared to stock, but it does tone down quite abit after a few kms as they break in.
Are there spare wires out the back of the unit? If so, I bet there is a spot in the ISO plug to wire it to that will sort that out. My Alpine one has its own sensor, so it adjusts automatically, but if the stock HU had that feature, chances are it can be done using the stock ISO plug as long as your unit is capable.Quote:
Originally Posted by UNA91
I spotted your car at the last Downshift meet, are you headed to the meet this Sat? If so, we should catch up.
When the car is moving at around 30-40kms (slowing down) my clutch is in but its hard to go to gear 1? is it a safety thing? never used to notice it.
Anyone having this problem?
There is a dimmer wire on the unit, but i've used up all the stock headunit's wires :\Quote:
Originally Posted by -JC-
Ah, you must be that other EP3 that was there? Jealous you got the FL version haha looks good! Won't be going this month. I try not to go every month just cause it seems... well, the same most of the time lol
Yeah, it's mostly a safety feature; most manual cars would have it. If you rev matched or double clutched it may let you in lol but i don't see the point.Quote:
Originally Posted by TonyxTony
best practice is to only go into 1 when ur stationary. otherwise, go into 2 - hence that safety feature ;PQuote:
Originally Posted by TonyxTony
If I got Hasport 70a rear mounts would the vibrations increase significantly? since it's the rear mounts cause the most vibrations? To anyone running more than 62a, is the vibes huge? lol. I'm thinking of upgrading to stiffer rears since the 62a has settled and maybe thinking i could go for the 70a.
I don't think going back to 1st gear at that speed is going to do your gearbox any favors mate. If you must, try giving the throttle a stab to match the revs, it will go in, but if you like your gearboxes to last I'd be sticking with 2nd at that speed.Quote:
Originally Posted by TonyxTony
Ok, so what you would need to do is find something that dims when you put your lights on and hook it up to that. Probably starting to get too hard.Quote:
Originally Posted by UNA91
Yeah that was me, first one I've been to. I was thinking about coming down from the coast but I'm still not sure, maybe next time. I'm most likely doing Saturday Sprints at QR in September too. Want to get some track experience before I go to Lakeside, QR looks a little more forgiving for the beginner.
Anyone know if the cabin filters for EP3 are interchangeable with any locally delivered models? Keen to replace mine and it would be nice if I could just wander on down to Honda and grab some. DC5 maybe?
The ones I bought are listed for quite a few models, so I would say yes. If you have an old one, take it with you and see if they can match the size?
Personally I'd buy from ebay, works out a lot cheaper. Below are the ones I bought:
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/CABIN-FIL...item2a1275905f
Cool, thanks mate
I feel sorry for your gearbox. Please stop trying to get it into 1st when going at such speeds.Quote:
Originally Posted by TonyxTony
Ok, so curiosity got the better of me and I called my local Honda dealer. 'Around the $80 or $90 dollar mark' I actually choked on my mint. eBay it is!Quote:
Originally Posted by RPS.13
Cabin filter is $8 from oemaccuraparts.com you need to buy 2Quote:
Originally Posted by -JC-
But that eBay link is pretty cheap
was wondering if you ep3r guys could help me out here, there seems to be a woop woop woop sound coming from the front right wheel
the faster you go, the faster the sound, its pretty loud as you go faster, anyone have any ideas what it could be?
we are stumped atm, we think its a wheel bearing but not sure, tyres are brand new and balanced (happened before the new tyres)
yea nah... i dont clutch off... just thought i could clutch down and put it in gear 1. thats all... i love my gear box too :D
I got 220km after the fuel light came on last night.!
Wonder how much gas was left in the tank lol
220kms with fuel light on? That's ballzy, did you have a Jerry can in the boot?Quote:
Originally Posted by Lukezen27
Dude thats like half a tank for me! Your light must be fkedQuote:
Originally Posted by Lukezen27
yeah i panicked after doing 15k's with the light on...Quote:
Originally Posted by EG52NV
Nope.. no backupQuote:
Originally Posted by EG52NV
I just ran with it till I couldn't take the pressure anymore haha
Na its fine :)Quote:
Originally Posted by JDM EP3
So your saying you can get 700 odd km's to a tank? did you convert to diesel:P?
lol maybe :PQuote:
Originally Posted by brody
Don't forgot the fuel light comes on early if your on an angle or hill.
Anyone know if the facelift taillights would be a straight swap the pre-facelift?
Everything I've seen tells me they would be. Would look good on yours too, haven't you already got facelift Headlights?Quote:
Originally Posted by UNA91
The headlights were put in by the previous owner, i'm not too sure lol it looks exactly like the FL headlights, but instead of where the projector would be, its a reflector?
It's a FL headlight from the EU civic.Quote:
Originally Posted by UNA91
Ive read that swapping the pre face lift ones in requires the HID change. Dont ask me why haha, but I'm pretty sure I read it somewhere. On the other hand, I may be totally wrong:)
That'll probs be it. I remember the owner saying something about FL UK version headlights lolQuote:
Originally Posted by Perry
I'm talking about the rear lights, surely i wouldn't put hids for reverse lights perhaps?! hahaQuote:
Originally Posted by brody
Rear lights will fit as they are the same shape just the cosmetic differences, although I hate the FL rear lights, I do love the fronts though and would like to upgrade them to FL also.Quote:
Originally Posted by UNA91
went down to the south coast for the weekend away..
me and my friend decided to go for a little joy ride, my car and his DC5R
him and I were vtec-ing it down from one end to the other.. Touge style! :D
so that was like 10km from one end to the other! me leading first and then him leading! :D
Sounds mad fun.Quote:
Originally Posted by kenny07
Does anyone know if it's possible to set the Toe to 0 with a maximum of -3 deg camber (for Front suspension)? This is at stock ride height (345mm from hub centre to guard).
If not, what is the maximum negative camber that can be set, if you want to keep Toe at 0?
You'll most likely fine that the stock tie rods are too long to get that amount of negative camber and zero toe. I was unable to zero my front toe at about -1.08.Quote:
Originally Posted by intertia
The max negative camber i can dial in now is only 2.38ish, and that is with adjustable everything. Camber tops, camber bolts, Todd's adjustable tie rods, Akom/McGill motorsports inverted tie rod ends.
The above numbers are at maxium low. But i don't see much difference with the issue of the length of the stock tie rods at stock height.
Ahh sh*t sorry man haha. But yeh.. HID rears, stll do it:PQuote:
Originally Posted by UNA91
Thanks for that, I'll probably see what I can do with the OEM rods, and go from there.Quote:
Originally Posted by RPS.13