http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=110451 have alook guys all price are neg
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http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=110451 have alook guys all price are neg
hey guys
i'm in the hunt for clear indicators (both side and front bar) at the moment..
i've heard with the stock orange ones you can soak them in metho and they turn out clear is this true?..
or can u buy clear ones? if so how much and where?
cheers
not sure about the front indicators, but i know you can bleach the rear lights to white lol
You can get clear side and front indicators on ebay.
I've just rebuilt my engine, and i get some idling probs, basiclly if u rev it, it drops down below idle then comes back up.
i came across a cheap jdm climate control today. anyone seen/ know how to install them into the audm? i got all the wiring and clips attaching it to the car if thats any help
it wont work ill buy it off u ;)
nah grab a wiring diagram out of the integra manual and u should b able to push the pins out and re insert them into the jdm climate control harness plug
its fairly straight forward but the wiring gonna b the hard part...
u need to grab a AUDM manual or a USDM manual and then get a JDM (or a 4 door da) manual and it will have what pin goes where on the plug
how much u wanna pay for it.... i may consider it....
i have a service manual already....
are you saying that the plugs are the same jdm/audm a/c/climate control unit?
nah nah they should b diff
but if u check a guide (one i found that shows actual pictures is dc2 dash into eg) (thats what im doin now)
it shows u that u can get a safety pin for like babys nappys and then use that to push the pin out if u got the male pin for the unit these pins can just plug straight in
otherwise maybe see the xsi da6? or any imports they usually have it
but as far as i know there not a plug and play cause theres heaps diff to normal units
prob just hire an electrician. was reading about the yanks trying to do it in their lhd cars, had to get some sensors aswell as the unit requires inside and outside temperature....
hey guys, first post, im looking at buying a integra very soon. are there any comon faults i should look out for?
Thanks
If its a da9 (89 to 92) rear trailing arm bushes ($500 to get a shop to do them), rust around the sunroof and top of the windscreen (not that common but I've seen a few with it) other than those I don't really know of any expensive problems that are specific to da's just the normal stuff like gearbox condition, oil leaks, oil condition do the ks match the wear and tear on the car etc etc.
yeh the rust round the boot aswel where the window and the glass is
wet feet under the windscreen but thats expected
main relays are quite common to go as well.
rear trailing arm bushes costs $500 for a shop to install!? ouch!
Ok well this car is pretty mint, and he wants a price to match, so im not so worried, it also has service history and all that good stuff, and the guy looks like an enthusiast, so he has taken good care of it.
ill check for rust, but what is "rear trailing arm bushes" and where do i check for them? a pic would be much appreciated (if possible)
Thanks, im hoping to buy it tommorow :cool:
EDIT: what are some good online suppliers of random parts for the DA9, i know of www.rhdjapan.com but they dont stock for DA9 :(
Yep they were stuffed on both my Da's when I bought them and they got picked up on the roadworthy inspection each time, first place quoted $619 but they also quoted $100 to fix my rear window washer. The second place quoted $440. I got my old man to help me replace them instead.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ashwee
The main relay is common but it isn't really something I'd worry about they're an easy fix, although you could use it as a haggling point.
I'm too lazy to go jack the car up and take a pic but if you look behind the rear wheels, its the massive bush. Preferably you'd want to see one that isn't black, mine are red but bushes can come in plenty of colours. The black ones are rubber and usually a genuine honda item and they were very prone to breaking prematurely.
i got this pic from honda-tech.com, i circled red what i think is the bush, am i correct?
http://img134.imageshack.us/img134/8420/busgh.jpg
Thanks for you help guys, going to take a look at it tonight.
you circled the whole trailing arm... so yes. the bushing is where it connects to the chassis, ie the black rubber ring in the middle of the trailing arm
ps. if your a member of Honda-tech, you should download the service manual for the da9 free from the site. then check out the suspension section for the trailing arm info
ah ok, i thought that it was the ring part in the middle.
Thanks guys, ill let you know how my car shopping go's :P
Yeh get in there with a torch and check if they're still rubber or if they've been replaced with a notholane (sp?) bush. If they're still rubber check for tears and cracks in the rubber.
majority of them either on civics tegs etc. r all stuffed
hey with the trailing arm bushes, are they press, removable and how much are they just for the part?
i had a look at mine today there farked lol
pair of bushings OEM about $200 i have ordered the X-TRACTOR Tool to remove and install so see how it all goes.
USD$105 www.kingmotorsports.com
Bought from these guys a couple of times now and they ship very fast with no hassles at all.
Did mine with a hammer. It sucked but worked.
Buy after market, the genuine ones aren't strong enough.
Can be done with a hammer and a hacksaw but a shit load easier with a press.
You never need a hacksaw. I replaced the trailing arm bushings with sphericals on the weekend and they popped out with 3 or 4 hits from a big mallet.
OEM bushings are plenty strong as long as you have them aligned properly. If you are lowered you're going to have a very hard time getting them to be vertical at normal ride height which will give you funky toe changes when you don't want them.
One of the two pairs I've done had to be cut out, there was no way they were coming out with a hammer. I can't comment from personal experience but they were replaced at 90k in the log book of my stock auto grandma integra and were gone again when I got it at 150k. To me that says there is something wrong with them. And plenty of people on g2ic have the same issues.
Strange; I've done 2 pairs and they all came out easily with a good few whacks - maybe you need a bigger hammer :D. The pair I replaced with OEM were a nightmare to bash back in I will admit.
The only problem with a 'stronger' aftermarket item is that it probably won't replicate the function of the OEM piece. If the replacement bushing doesn't allow lateral deflection of the trailing arm then you are going to be putting greater stress on all your other rear bushings. A completely filled RTA bushing without a floating centre bar is NOT a good idea. When I installed my spherical bushing in the RTA I ran the suspension through it's range of movement and the trailing arm moves side to side ~10mm when all the other bushings are moving in their natural axis. If you constrain that part of the arm to one point then something will bind.
hey guys
acura indicators should fit on honda right?
i found clear indicators but couple of mates are telling me that the globe fittings are different...is this the case?.. i assumed that they would fit with out a problem..
cheers
they should fit, yes. sides and front, for that matter.
haha worst luck ever, just got word my trailing arm bushes need replacing. Got quoted $376 for genuine honda supplied and fitted though..
im interested in getting the jdm vtec cluster for the da and just wanted to know if wiring will be an issue? whether it is OBD0 or OBD1 as my car is a 93 model with OBD1 wiring.
thanks
not sure about the vtec version of Jdm cluster but i have a non vtec version and the wires are all fine. plug and play.
really should be fine, but if there is any form of vtec light on the cluster then u might have a problem as there will be no vtec signal wire on ure original harness.
than again that problem is easily fixed.
good luck,
yeh but the wire would prob just b missing on my eg i got the gl so its a carby one and the plugs r the same they just missing the wires
it should fit and not be any hassles
kool thanks guys. so it wont matter what jdm cluster i get and i have to run an extra wire for vtec. at the moment there is no problem as the vtec engine light doesnt show up so shouldnt be any differrence when i get the jdm cluster, just plug and play as you mentioned?
yeh is ur car vtec? if its not u dont need to run the wire it should work with out it all together
yeah ive got vtec. so there would be the wire already running through. i dont get any engine light come on.
I have a 92 JDM Vtec dash, it has climate control but no VTEC light, there is a funky one for the CAT, if its too hot when you stop the car, it indicates this, for some reason they think you will park on top of long dry grass and burn the car :)
I am thinking to use this as the VTEC light, will post a diagram if i get round to it
aw yeh maybe put a sticker over it or something then its looks like just a light instead of the vtec got any pics?
ive used this light as a vtec light before...it does nothing otherwiseQuote:
Originally Posted by tseesinngwailo
maybe ill dig up some videos
Edit. Found the bushes I need. Are these king motorsports guys to be trusted, before I go ahead and give them $200 of my dollars?
nolathane sell them for 100 bucks for a pair
Hmm, these ones appear to be made of steel?
http://www.nolathane.com.au/photos/46180.jpg
yeh but the red bit is the bush
the metal is just the insert
I've bought from them twice, with VISA, and received my goods within a week of placing the order.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ashwee
If you find the part number (search honda-tech) you could always go to your local dealer and try to get them to find it. My local dealer priced a pair of RTA bushings for the DC4 at AUD$105 but they are a much newer item than the DA9 part so your luck might vary.
Got a set of nolathane ones for $155, will arrive tomorrow.. now I just need to find someone kind enough to let me borrow the bushing tool.. otherwise its a hammer job :P
If the metal bar in the middle doesn't slide side to side they'll bind up your other bushings. FYI.
If anyone wants proof I can make a video showing the natural movement of the RTA bushing but won't be able to upload it until I get the internet on at home (damn house moving!).
Does anyone know where to get some coilovers for the DA's? I'm real interested in getting some...
Try the traders on here... JDMYard or Race nationQuote:
Originally Posted by fudge_
will the springs from ef or eg fit on the da9?
EG and DC2 springs fit on the DA strut.
what about DA springs onto EG/DC struts?Quote:
Originally Posted by Ashwee
Yes, EG/DC2/DC2R springs will ALL fit on DA struts, and vice versa.
thx buddy.how about the complete front and rear struts(eg,dc2r) do they fit on da?Quote:
Originally Posted by Ashwee
EG and DC2 struts fit straight bolt on, you just need the front forks from an EG/DC2.
DC2R struts also bolt straight on but you need the rear control arm to swap, and I presume the front forks as well.
hey guys
would civic (92-95) clear side indicators fit on a da9?http://www.cartoys.com.au/products/H...?SC=9M-HO15L99
Yes. And the DC ones fit too.
many thx buddy.
hey, i know this post was from awhile ago but i was reading through and thought that i could help.Quote:
Originally Posted by gumbs
I use to run at QR (until a recent defect) and as i got my times down into the 62sec range i found the brakes were getting hot at the end of the sessions. this caused a long pedal and general brake fade. for the next track day that followed (november last year, before the power upgrade) i had upgraded the brake fluid to dot 5, bought some slotted rotors, removed the heat shieds from behind the front discs and fitted some project mu hc+ pads. this improved the brakes greatly without the need for an expensive refit of front end gear.
just my 2 cents!
I haven't actually done anything to fix the problem yet....... I've been way too busy with uni and I haven't even considered taking any of my rides out towards the hills. I'm planning on some decent pads and fluid plus a general clean up of my brakes. Hopefully that will fix the problem, if it doesn't I'm going to look at slotted rotors.
hey guys
do DA9's have a electronic aerial?..
cheers
yes they do. it's huge aswell.
i thought so...mine just stays up..is that because of the aerial its self? (motor or somethin) or is there a switch somewhere..because i dnt have the stock stereo unit..
cheers
well either its broken, unplugged or has not been hooked up to ur new head unit. if it makes a clunking noise everytime u turn the car on and off. if it does that means its the motor or something. if not and it just stays up it could be unplugged or not hooked up. maybe as a result of the motor being broken or ur headunits lack of control for electronic aerialsQuote:
Originally Posted by iggie
ahhk thanks saikou27
yeh because ive got a pioneer head unit so its probably not connected to it..
thanks
If anyone has some OLD Rotors (in Sydney) laying around, can they please Pm me.
I'm just looking for something as cheap as possible to get my brake upgrade going (front Rotors only)
Love you 2G teg people
is the exhaust identical to 2nd gen crx?
Doubt it.
This is a strange graph: Ran it up the other day at MRC.
Was in 3rd gear.
4th gear ran 70.4KW
Power graph is rough, I've seen straighter power curves from turbo cars lol.
Does a weird thing after 4000RPM, like a vtec hit lol.
Stockish exhaust, pod, rest is standard.
Also air fuel ratio is crappy.... starts rich and goes leaner?
I'm thinking an ignition timing issue or something (read everything stuffed).
Thoughts anyone?
Don't need the rotors, cheers guys and gal.
thats pretty good for stock
Isn't running it in 3rd gear going to give an incorrect reading?
Anyone know where to buy decent dot 5 fluid? And any recommendations on brand? Supercheap only sell "super dot 4" I just ordered some project mu pads and have stripped my calipers down in preparation. Hopefully I'll have it all together to test it out on track day next wednesday.
ferodo makes 5.1 fluid.you can order one from repco.ive used them for 2 track days now ,but they performed the same as super dot4 from my experience cant feel any difference.its like 70 bucks a bottle for trade price.
alternatively both lucas and motul rbf600s are pretty good.
I just ended up using the super dot 4. Turns out its the brake booster thats causing the spungy pedal. Pedal is now rock solid when the car is off and a squishy piece of crap as soon as I start it. Anyone know if there are any after market solutions? I really don't want to go second hand and I'm assuming genuine honda is going to cost me my left nut, but I'll give them a call on monday and find out.
y not just disconnect the booster most cars do it thats the purpose of the booster to give pedal assistance
I didn't know that was possible, how hard is it to do? So just to make sure I'm understanding you correctly all the booster does is make the pedal easier to press? Am I going to lose breaking power by removing it?
try it
when u have ur car running the car creates a vacumn the booster stores the vacumn when u push ur foot on the pedal u use the vacumn to give u an advantage if u pump ur pedal it will become more and more stiff (provided the engine is off)
it can still b spongey from needing a bleed up etc.
hey guys,
will our DA9 seats fit into a EG hatch???
and of coarse vice versa???
Any got a pic of a DA9 integra with altezza lights?
cheers
with the seats you can make them fit I believe, just have to take the metal backing plates off and swap them around (as in put the EG plates on the DA seats to put it into the EG, or put DA plates on EG seats to put them into the DA)
And this is the quickest pic of the tezza's I can find.. can't say they're my cup of tea but here you go.
http://www.autobodycreations.com/g7_...uraintegra.jpg