^ mate stop trying to sell stuff. earn that green icon then sell.
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^ mate stop trying to sell stuff. earn that green icon then sell.
Earn member status first.
I've reported your posts.
pedders are rebranded BC coilovers
if u want the shocks to blow in 40000k's, go ahead
anyone knw where to buy front lip fd? just the front lip i need, mugen or similar ..
Boomba engine mounts ordered :)
Areis sweet ride! Did you paint the H grille yourself? That's the one thing I'd change on mine. This photo I'm liking the reflections from everything but weirdly the ground the most. Cheers, Tony :)
would these fit my fd with tein ss
F 17x8 +32
R 17x9 +38
215/45/17 and 245/40/17?
look for SHIFT performance OR OTRmotorsportQuote:
Originally Posted by shepparton
guards need to be rolled at the rear and camber...someone confirm this for me XDQuote:
Originally Posted by itachi-kun
yep the back would need a little work but will fit with a roll no problems.
I wouldn't go that wide tyre on the rear though. I have 215/45 on 17x9 rear. 225 would be more than enough for most
Is this your car?!?? so ill! Well played sir.Quote:
Originally Posted by Areis
Thanks guys! And my painter painted the H for me. Both front and back in matte black
Front will stick out 5mm less than the rears, would 5mm be enough to clear the front guards or should I have the fronts rolled as well.Quote:
Originally Posted by DuffyFD
roll the fronts
the rear you will prob have trouble with the fuel tank plastic cover, especially if ur running camber at around 3-4 deg. and yeah 225 on the rear will suffice.. i have 215 on my 17x9 rears atm its fine
-3 to -4 camber is fine. Just don't run like -8 which is what I had before.
natural camber will get u to around 3 depending how low u are and thats enough to hit the fuel tank cover
if u run -8 like areis u may threaten the actual fuel tank lines =P
Na man ! It's fine! When I had -8 it completely burnt through the plastic. But I was on LMs at the time and my car was on springs. It's just all trial and error as it is different for everyone (dependent largely on height, wheels and tyre stretch.
LMs are up kids :)
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthr...6427-BBS-LM-17
Anyone selling big dish wheels? 17x8-9 +10 ish and 17x10 +10?
My FD2 Sport.
Engine Setup
* J's Racing Axle Back Muffler
* K&N Drop In Filter
Handling/Wheels Setup
* Genuine BBS Lms
Rears - 17x8 +45
Fronts - 17x8 +40
* Kumho31 Tyres 225/45/17
* Red Rays Long Dura Lug Nuts
* Tein Lowering Springs (25mm Drop)
Interior/Exterior Setup
* Alpine Digital Media Receiver - iXa-W407EBT
* Alpine V-Power Mono Power Amplifier MRP-M450
* Alpine Type R Coaxial 2-Way Speaker System 6-1/2' - SPR-60
* Alpine Type R 12" Sub
* Aftermarket 8000K HID Xenon Ballast Kit
* Aftermarket Angel Eyes Head Lights
* Aftermarket Smoke Tail Lights
* Mugen RR Style Front Bumper
* Mugen RR Style Side Skirts
* Mugen Style Rear Lip
* Mugen Style Wing
* Mugen Style Automatic Pedals
* Mugen Style Window Visors
* Mugen Badge
* Mugen Pedals
* Black Honda Badges
after 4 years, 90,000kms, 7 sets of wheels, 2 body kits, etc etc,,, and no defects!!
the honda may be going tomorrow morning :( 80% sure it will be too
happy modding! and drive safe!
my first set up
http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/n...g?t=1336998899
and her exit
http://img18.imageshack.us/img18/7281/img0899nf.jpg
mesh ftw!
awww she had a good run!
did u find a good buyer?
I'll always hold this as one of the inspiring civics when I started modding. A sad dayQuote:
Originally Posted by ekdez
Yeh man. Such a nice civic. i Salute thee!
yup shes gone :| - just need to sell my n+ coilovers! see below
p.s. ill take some photos of the bmr today installing a kerscher front lip.
Damm.. One less tastefully modified FD. More pics please with the CCWs ekdez!
do like!
pics installed or didn't happen :O
Sorry I had no idea about "member status" & green Icon, what a crazy system !
baw$$
dayum thats sexay!!! swap cars? cash my way?
yyyyuuuummmm!!
too much wheel vag gap though :( I know it's necessary.
Why is it not dumped?
I need more camber at the front. Can anyone recommend anything? Thinking of LCAs at the moment but not too sure if I trust them. I've already got adjustable top hats and camber bolts maxed out.
You is mad.
Still scrubbin yeah?
Sorry man haven't kept up to date with your new specs Lol, what are your current wheel, Tyre specs and camber specs? Any guard rolling on front?Quote:
Originally Posted by Areis
Haven't posted for a while. My fd with k24 is tuned, made 150kw on the dot. Only advanced timing to 38degrees due to using silencer daily. So still has more
Rbc intake
64mm throttle body
Injen intake
50 deg vtc
Buddy club race spec header
Skunk2 exhaust
That's sweet dude.
What's your estimate of the final number once you retune after the last mods? 190ish?
Series is running 17x9 +20 iirc. Not sure on camber degrees. Probably around 4deg.
^190 u crazy?
fffffffffffuark that's naiceQuote:
Originally Posted by EGB
damn egb.... epic!!! approx how much did the k24 implant cost you? it was done at jdmyard yeah? (i think i remember you saying jdmyard was doing it but i have forgotten)
Aries have you got the ASR adjustable camber plate/top hat ?? does it just replace the honda top hat ?? whats the max Camber you can dial in ?
I'm thinking about more camber before for the Honda Nats as I'm still having trouble getting my immense power down out of the tight corners !! lol
No more scrubbing :)
Guards are all pulled. Running 17x9 +22 with 215/40/17 tyres. Not sure on camber.
Dude why moar camber then?
Cause the front looks bitchy compared to the rear :P needs more FAT!
Quick question that I will ask you all guys in regards to fitament of wheels, considering your discussing it :-P
I'm looking at a pair of 17 x 9 +35 Enkei RPF1, I'm going to roll the fenders, I'm on stock springs/suspension (going aftermarket after 25,000km ~ 35,000km), Would you guys see any perceivable issues in regards to rubbing?
I've seen in the fitament thread that one of the members had that exact setup and said he had no issues, but I'm not sure if he had shaved fenders even. After going between here and 8thcivic, I'm almost at wits end :-P .. especially considering I'm not 100% sure on this.
Your 4x4 will be fine.
But you know, need large wheels for the trecherous suburban roads ;-).
The reason is cosmetic with the 9" .. as its actually flat as opposed to convex.
Thanks for the response though, giving me something serious to consider, I'm looking at something unrealistic that will also reduce certain areas of performance.
Put it this way. I'm looking at going for 17x9+20 in the rpf01s.
i have 17x9 +35 in my rears and the only thing i hit is my fuel tank cover (but im on coils and running about -3 camber), and that is about to be worn away in the very near future so all is well. oh i do have my guards rolled and rear bumper tab shaved, but the roll is a very medium one.
up front, you'll just need ur guards rolled flat and the plastic fender lining trimmed accordingly
I'm running 8.5 +30 225/45, only reason I went this is because I'm running brembo calipers. You will need camber, guards rolled and stretched tyres for 9inch wide
sorry forgot to mention im running 215/45 which really makes that couple mm difference for the guard clearance
im running 9 on 215/40's at the rear. i cut a hole in the tank liner and tapped it up. couldnt wait for it to rub its self out. (man that sounds suss)
Installed mounts last night.
Low rev range earthquake dash for the next few weeks whilst they settle in.
Damn they're awesome though
http://img.tapatalk.com/6a4622ec-b84c-da96.jpg
What mounts are those Duffy?
Boomba racing mounts.
Youll be fine if you run stretch tyres. I recommend 215/40/17
AND AN UPDATE.
Finally decided on new wheel specs.
Have the mounts started to wear in duffy? .. Also do you use them for daily driving? .. Hope you don't mind me asking .. was looking at the boomba's vs the innovative .. although the boomba's look like the way to go.
Only driven 250 kms on them and they're settling down but initially it's like your dash is going through an earthquake!Quote:
Originally Posted by lolmclol
Yeah my car is a daily, but they do transform the car. Makes you feel much more connected.
They're meant to full settle around 700-1000kms. So I can't really tell you how much more they're going to settle.
lolmclol I also got the same mounts at the same time as Duffy, I've put 650k on em and handling has been transformed to something I actually didn't believe was possible. When you see the huge Rubber mounts the civic comes with its sort of explains the disconnected feel you get on the ragged edge.
I've struggle a fair bit with front end traction at the track. Basically trying to get power down outta tight 2nd gear corners was a miserable fail. Now I fuked up a little bit when I installed my mounts as I needed to slip a couple of washers under the bottom mount to fill an unexpected gap, now because of that my bottom mount has probably really only done 100km, the good news is I will do close to 3000km in the next 8 days which should give an idea as too whether the low rev vibration we both have during the so called bed in period improves.
I've also got a track day next thursday so it will be interesting to see what improvement these mounts have given me over the stockers, I'm hoping for 0.5 sec thou I'm an optimistic prick !! lol
Thank you Stevil and Duffy.
Yeah when I was speaking to one of the people over at boomba he was saying that the mounts are 56mm thick and the ones on the FD are 61mm thick, he advised to add on some washers to sustain the mounts, only thing I'm weary of is if there is any issues with this, like friction, clash of material properties on each other, probably just finding reason to stress for no reason hehe, out of curiousity do you have any pics of your install? :D
Thanks again for the feedback, much appreciated! Going to order these mounts, plus some base bushing for the shifter, have you guys considered the cable bushings?
I am currently running this Rear Hasport Engine mount, http://hasport.com/store/index.php/m...fd/fdrrtm.html - I was having issues with my headers hitting the chassis at high RPM shifts. After installation this no longer happened and as with the guys above, felt far more feedback. As the rear engine mount is the torque mount it stops the engine from moving back and forth during acceleration and shifting.
As for the cable bushings im using the Hybrid Racing spherical shifter bushings. I am unsure if they still make the spherical one as I could not see it on their website - But it does provide a slightly stronger shifter feel, but could also be placebo.
http://www.k20tuned.com/xcart/images/D/hrbush3.jpg
EGB, are you running a K series engine? Because I was looking at the Hybrid Racing ones, but the only ones I could see were for the K series. The hybrid racing ones look to be the better choice as opposed to the Corsport, TWM or Torque Solutions options.
Thanks a heap guys for your feedback, I really appreciate it! :-)
Im running a K series. Do you have a FD1 or FD2? As the rear mount above will only be for K Series FD2 - Rear mount connects from the Sump to subframe.
I've got full shifter bushings + shortshifter done as well all from hasport US website. Made a world of difference.
R18 fd1 ;-(
Thanks for that Duffy! .. Another source to check out n_n
I installed shifter base bushings and a short shifter.
Much firmer now!
Anyone here got recaro/bride in their fd2?
Seen a few, only thing to be weary of is the issue involving the side airbag on the chair (purchasing FN2R, or FD2R seats will have the side airbag), if not there's a thread on 8thcivic with a run down guide on how the sensor works in the chair ;-).
Also don't forget, should you follow through with the bride/recaro seats, you also have the chance of defects (yellow sticker), as well as if you are in an accident it can cause problems with the insurance company (non ADA aproved (wrong acronym?) and lack of air bag).
Not trying to deter you, its just what runs through my head every time I have the urge to purchase some recaros.
Do want blue DC5 recaros <3 :D. Trading one kidney!
I did receive something nice today, the TWM Big Type R shift knob, and oh boy is this thing sexy D: shifting is effortless now its so great.
fd2r seats will not have the side airbags. i know because i had them on my car once
if u have an fd2 (which has side airbags), get the fn2r seats as they will just be a straight plug n play from what i have read
LOL what! hahahaQuote:
Originally Posted by ekdez
Fn2r have different brackets. But they do have side airbags.Quote:
Originally Posted by black8thgen
If someone wants to swap fd2r seats for fn2r seats lemme know
My bro is selling his fn2r front and rear seats...pm me if interest :)
My for sale thread if anyone wants some stuff
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthr...nd-new-xxr-521
Does anyone have a double din fascia for sale? And stereo?
i might have one for sale very soon.. pm me for details
that has to be the gheyest thing i have ever seen.Quote:
Originally Posted by ekdez
if it was on an fd, maybe cool, but that is so ugly.
A snapshot of some random stuff I've done to the car lately in my spare time...
Gram lights 57PRO. Still deciding if I want to stretch my rears or get some canberra. It looks 4WD spec in this pic but cos was just jacked up. Has about 1cm gap now
http://img713.imageshack.us/img713/2281/gramlights.jpg
Full 3" stainless steel no-turbo back exhaust with lobster welds and magnaflow high flow cat
http://img855.imageshack.us/img855/4376/exhaustb.jpg
Carbon charger intake with lazy-to-mount snorkel
http://img515.imageshack.us/img515/8629/intakes.jpg
Trying out the GReddy RS in my non-turbo car for funs
http://img703.imageshack.us/img703/382/greddyrs.jpg
No likes so I tried the GReddy Type-S for more funs
http://img196.imageshack.us/img196/4859/greddys.jpg
Comparison of stock shifter bushings with billet ones. Also added short shifter kit for ricer stylez
http://img521.imageshack.us/img521/997/bushings.jpg
Love the feel of my titanium shift knob > razo stick
Keep the thread true and alive guys...
Well in the case, i've got an update...Quote:
Originally Posted by xenonkuraz
My car is on accord euro stockies now... not going to be driving it for the next month or two. Have decided on new wheels and specs. Specs are going to be,
F: 17x9.5 +16
R: 17x10 -3
For those wanting to have a read, the build for the wheels can be found here http://raw-works.blogspot.com.au/201...surements.html
I purchased a Skunk Gear shift knob, this weighs about 400 grams and made a definite improvement to shifting.
When I installed the Skunk I didn't use the lock nut and the knob sat noticably lower than standard.
The only drawback was the Skunk became lava hot and branded my hand in hotter weather.
I then purchased a TWM short shift adapter and base bushings.
Fairly easy to fit, and the best result. The shift is noticably shorter. About a third shorter to be precise.
The shift feels tighter and makes a most satisfying clunk.
From my research the cable bushings also make a huge improvement.
This will be my next investment.