Where is road and race?Quote:
Originally Posted by DreadAngel
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Where is road and race?Quote:
Originally Posted by DreadAngel
Not the greatest website... Link
Got my new Wedssport SA70 wheels today, not sure if I like the look over my old FN01R-C wheels...having 2nd thoughts lol maybe if they were black lol too used to my simple 5 spoke rims :S The Wedssports have no lip and looks like it would suit an evo more or something; they are darn light tho and came with fresh Advan AD07s
http://imageshack.us/a/img405/1895/imag0781z.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img209/9120/a...1778717079.jpg
Quote:
Originally Posted by UNA91
I've got WORKS in the same style as your but their off waiting to be painted black lol
naaaiiiiceQuote:
Originally Posted by UNA91
indeed!Quote:
Originally Posted by butterfingers
yeah i guess its not too bad, garage had bad lighting lol wish they were a little more agressive tho. and there's brake dust baked on HARD on them, can't even get it off with normal wheel cleaner
Looks so much better than the 5zigens!
Yess agreedQuote:
Originally Posted by Symphorced
Anyone recommend a strong wheel cleaner that doesn't harm the paint? This brake dust is stubborn as hell. Using normal armor all wheel cleaner and endless toothbrush scrubbing doesnt do anything
I use car wash to clean my wheels, much safer than any of the wheel cleaners and its worked for me npz =)
Try P21S wheel cleaner. Highly regarded, I bought some, yet to try it on my volks which have quiet some settled brake dust on them. Will use it myself this coming week. ^_^Quote:
Originally Posted by UNA91
Are they acidic based? i think i might have to resort to something acidic like 'meguire's wheel brightener' diluted which is like professional detailing stuff, except i can't seem to find it anywhere and seem to come in huge kegs. This dust is baked on HARD, and wont budge with conventional wheel cleaners like turtlewax or armor all. Its so thick its actually surface rusting; since brake dust is basically fine metal powder.Quote:
Originally Posted by aRze
Are you doing this with the wheels off the car?
Sometimes it helps having the wheel off so you can get more 'muscle' into it =)
You can also clean the inner barrel like that too =D
Yea, it was off the car. I bought a product called AutoGlym wheel cleaner and it did the job. When you spray on the brake dust it dissolves it and turns purple and washes right off :)
Sounds identical to what Bowdens 'Wheely Clean' does. I have been replacing my stuff with Bowdens as it runs out in the last little while, I used to pretty much use Meguiars stuff exclusively, but the Bowdens is really impressive, and Australian.Quote:
Originally Posted by UNA91
Yeah, the autobarn sales person was kind enough to let me try a few wheel cleaning products on different spots on my wheels; Autoglym, meguairs, bowdens, eagle 1 and mothers. The Autoglym and Bowdens did a similar good job and was both the best at removing the baked dust, but i went with Autoglym as it was a little cheaper :\Quote:
Originally Posted by -JC-
Hey guys. Kinda urgent, getting a few things fitted today including my plm header (finally).
I'm just going to run the test pipe for now. Will I have any issues with the o2 sensor needing to be extended or anything?
Also, any had any running issues after installing rbc manifold (no aftermarket ecu).
I know about the rad support being moved forward and bonnet latch cut out a bit more but anything I might want to tell them? Not too happy with the shops service as of yet so would like to hive them as much info as I can so they don't screw it up ha.
Thanks
I ran the PLM headers on my dc5 (same fitment) and the O2 sensor didn't reach (secondry) so it always had an engine light on the dash. THat's all that will happen until I turn it off with Kpro on my tune. Also, the RBC can't be installed without Kpro I don't think, you'll need it tuned to run your airflow correctly as the intake manifold will shoot everything out of whack on the carQuote:
Originally Posted by brody
I had no issues running the test pipe and the lenght of the o2 sensors.Quote:
Originally Posted by brody
Anyone know how to get rid of these hard brake dust spots? It's driving me nuts trying to clean them and it does look pretty ugly in the sun :(
http://imageshack.us/a/img560/2783/p...2180767257.jpg
The Autoglym wheel cleaner pretty much cleaned 70% of the wheel; its just these hard bumps that won't budge no matter how much I scrub and rinse and repeat. I was thinking of maybe using Rust converters (phosphoric acid) that break down rust and see if that will work since most alkaline based wheel cleaner won't touch it, and car care products aren't cheap :(
Righto cheers. Ah itll run.. just not make any power and also run rich. All good.. go back to work again soon so will find out how to get a hold of kpro.. or another ecu.. considering I haven't found anyone in Perth who can tune hondata as of yet.Quote:
Originally Posted by dnapol
Thanks manQuote:
Originally Posted by JDM EP3
Is that brake bust or is the paint is gone? Its hard to tell with the pictures. Avoid using brushes since i will leave fine scratches and will leave ugly lines later onQuote:
Originally Posted by UNA91
It is hard baked brake dust, and appears to be raised and bumpy, I can't even pick it off with my nails. I sanded the surface area abit and it had a rusty colour to it so i assume it is brake dust or a similar iron composite. I had to scrub them with a brush before which did leave fine marks, but scratch and swirl remover brought them back to normal. It's so annoying, those areas feel like a brick wall lol. I'm going to order 'Meguire's Wheel Brightener', apparently this stuff is super strong as it is acid based, but doesn't use hroflouric acid like some acid based cleaners which is overkill, and CAN kill you. It is from their professional detailer line at $52 for a huge 3.8L bottle... should last me ages since it is meant to be diluted. If this stuff doesn't do it then i guess i'll just have to suck it up lolQuote:
Originally Posted by stienerv2
Previous owner must've had some hardcore race pads in the rain or something...
Anyone gone through redzone to purchase and install kpro? Is this Australia's only hondata distributor and installer? Just wondering as id like to buy a kpro within the next few days.. so thought I'd check who everyone else went through. I'm in Perth but is obviouy just send it off for the installation.
Damn that is really a tough one. I've used a lot of wheel cleaners and the safest non acidic one is mothers all tyre and wheel cleaner. That was even better than meguairs acidic purple wheel cleaner. And Armour All did nothing lol.Quote:
Originally Posted by UNA91
JDMyard is a distributor. Use their website to order onlineQuote:
Originally Posted by brody
Ah right. Thankyou:)Quote:
Originally Posted by butterfingers
Has anyone experienced 'bump steer' in their lowered EP3? I think this may be the issue I posted way back about my car having sometimes unpredictable steering when cornering spiritedly on slightly bumpy roads and sometimes when on a straight road.
Looking at my tie rods, they are pretty angled too...i'm considering getting the steering arm bracket which raises it about 1 inch higher and should fix the angle abit. Not too keen on the inverted tie rod ends since i've heard many durability problems compared to oem.
i bump steered a bit. got better tires. actually helped a lot
Arghh. Having a horrible experience with a shop over here.
All I wanted was my plm header and rbc manifold installed and its taking them 3 days.
Rang him just then and he made every excuse.
- this header is very dodgy. It's like a jigsaw puzzle.
- these are gunna give you problems over time.
- these will leak. Connections are dodgy.
- the intake is very difficult to install.
- we install toda, skunk2 and other jap brands
Thought I'd help him out at the start and send him a link for instructions on how to move the rad support forward to fit the intake. It was an eBay link. He said " if I knew it wad a eBay intake, I wouldn't of said yes"
Apologise for my rant. Any experienced any problems and real difficulties running these or installing? I may be wrong when I accuse them of being a horrible garage
you might want to get todds tie rods instead of replacing the ends, more costly but more worth it in the end as it would help improve your turning circle + the ends are adjustable so you can wind them in and reuse the OEM ones which i find personally better then t1r's inverted endsQuote:
Originally Posted by UNA91
rbc is a jap brand. its genuine oem honda...Quote:
Originally Posted by brody
exactly what I saidQuote:
Originally Posted by butterfingers
Probably gunna get the header spot welded or something as Ive read that the test pipe donut gasket sometimes leaks when the engine is under load. But other than that, most people seem to think they are a great, bang for your buck header.
Anyone running roll center adjusters? Is it necessary to fix my bump steer and correct suspension geometry, apparently it should improve handling aswell? I'm reading up on them and I just cant understand the concept of it lol
honda designed the suspension to to work its best at stock geometry. that is with the lca angled down toward the wheel.Quote:
Originally Posted by UNA91
when you lower the car a good amount, as you can imagine, the lca tends to angle up toward the wheel. this brings the chassis 'roll centre' further away below the centre of gravity. cant explain how as the rest is mathematics, but this worsens handling.
roll centre adjusters attempt to fix this problem by increasing he length of the ball joint from the knuckle to the lca, in effect bringing it closer to the original downward angle.
i have no feedback on driving the ep3 with and without roll centre adjusters so i cant tell you how much affect it actually has on the handling
I'm just looking at ways to fix the awkward tie rod angles, I might consider the steering bracket but mines in a pretty extreme angle and the bracket only raises it up by 3.5cm; and roll center adjusters seem pretty expensive for some ball joints lol
roll centres adjusters dont fix the tie rod problem.
i currently just live with the bump steer. driving over bumpy roads, the steering twitch is the least of my worries. im more worried about my spine.
it's raining! hope it doesnt hail! for my car's sake!
:/
it hard rained for literally 2 secs here lol mustve been a small angry cloud
my drivers side recaro has abit of play at the rails. I can move it back and forth. the bolsters that support my lats also feel abit loose, is there a way to tighten it up?
btw, anyone ever bought anything for yahoo japan auctions? I have no idea how to use it lol but i found some pretty sweet stuff there :cool:
LOLQuote:
Originally Posted by UNA91
it hailed at greenacre. i work at revesby!
lucky!
ladies
What camber kits are you running?
I bought some some hardrace camber arms yesterday; they seem to have had some good reviews. Should finally be able to get a proper alignment soon
Do they camber much?Quote:
Originally Posted by UNA91
I've got camber bolts for my 18x 8.5s and their just not far enough :(
Link to where you got em?
Camber bolts are for the front and camber arms are for the rears, isn't it?
I run the Hardrace upper camber arms on the rear and is good for -2.5 (though I've heard them being adjusted a lot more than this) and fronts I have camber plates from my BC Racing coilover and 4 eBay camber bolts which are good for -4.
I'm using Buddyclub rear camber arms and coilovers all round, so didnt bother with the fronts
-2 deg camber all round not sure how much more i can get out of the buddyclubs at the rear though..
Dan where have you been mate? Haven't heard from you in so long, thought you might have sold up haha.
That looks more like Tar and what not than caked on brake dust?Quote:
Originally Posted by stienerv2
You need to have local address/residency in order to create an account on Yahoo JP Auction. Best way is to use an agent like Jesse Streeter, Import Monster, Gorilla Industries to get stuff off Yahoo JP Auction.
Haven't received them yet, tho I only bought it so I can run less camber in the rear from my drop. Don't have any camber bolts.Quote:
Originally Posted by Lukezen27
Got em here http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/370615759...84.m1497.l2649
Quote:
Originally Posted by UNA91
sorry to spoil this - but avoid this design of camber kit. See those welds that connect the body to the C connection ? They are known to break under light impacts....such as pot hole or touch a gutter.
^what Hardrace?
That "design" of rear camber arm. Can you see the welds on either end ? These are just welded around a steel joining sleeve and can snap off....seen a handful of customers cars with this issue (EP3 and dc5s) - blox , hardrace and no - name arms....all same design.
Please refer to this
http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_ct2Z4hSdla...camber+kit.gif
Note it is significantly thicker and more heavy duty looking
Im not saying ALL arms of this design fail. Im saying ALL arms of the design in question are likely to fail in the event of a light to medium impact where other designs will remain intact
What other kinds of rear camber kits fit dc5 and ep3?
I've only know of the arm type kits?
hmm, interesting note.
i might revert back to OEM rear arm for safety.
So what ones should I use Benny?Quote:
Originally Posted by bennjamin
I tried calling you bro :(
yeah saw it soz !Quote:
Originally Posted by Lukezen27
Spend alittle more and get IGNALLS or similar - im searching google right now for more alternatives
yup all kits are "arm type" - Im bringing up that particular type (hardrace , blox etc) have weak joints.Quote:
Originally Posted by butterfingers
Look at other designs -
This design for example is solid alloy - should take a thumpin'
http://www.horsepowerfreaks.com/imag...s_Rear_LRG.jpg
here is the ignalls kit
http://www.kseriesparts.com/graphics...10_299x425.jpg
2 cambers bolts up front with Camber Tops on BC's maxed out at -1.5 before toe came out. Todd's tie rods fixed this up to get upto -4. Hardrace camber arms are good for -4. I shortened mine heaps and installed and it was redic the camber i had hahahah
Is there any advantage or reason apart from due to design of some aftermarket intakes, as to why people run mini breather intakes instead of the breather hose from the intake?
something like this: http://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/...n/bd587416.jpg
Umm something bad has happened to my EP3 and i need some urgent help, my top idler pulley just completely snapped off and and took taking a chunk off with it too... So lucky i wasn't even on the road, I was just at home testing the belt tension to see if its loose, poking around then SNAP! Is that part replaceable?
http://imageshack.us/a/img585/9482/imag0821j.jpg
Update: from the looks of it, its seems to be just the bracket that just needs to be replace. What you guys think of this?
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/K-Tuned-A...item4603f9e37c
otherwise i might just source one for real cheap since i can't wait for shipping. Anyone know of any ep3 wrecking/part outs?
if anyone is looking to part out their aftermarket exhaust, let me know
MOd bug kicked in hey???Quote:
Originally Posted by doosra
badly, haha. coilovers, injen intake, and now want exhaust... and maybe wheels later.. trying to find second hand parts to save some money though..Quote:
Originally Posted by Perry
I really want an exhaust for some extra sound as the stock exhaust is really quiet, but have a feeling i may regret it.. cause on my previous accord euro, i had the bc pro spec exhaust and it was very loud and on my s2k, i had an exhaust which was too loud so took it off. What have you got on yours perry?
any thoughts on megan twin tip exhaust? I kind of like the twin tips.. how does it sound? http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/MEGAN-3-D...item3f1b2abeb0
The Fujitsubo RM01A has been known to be relatively quiet when cruising, but roars in vtec, no that it matters since well... you're in vtec! lol
i want something louder than the fujitsubo though.
rm01a is the best bet honestly. its quiet when u want it to be and loud when u want it to be. with these ADR laws, this is really beneificial.
other options u can consider is j's racing 60rs. but unless u get titanium, it wont sound as good.
the twinloop will be barely louder than stock and almost as restrictive
anyone have like a service interval manual or something so i know what needs changing for every service interval?
Running a Mugen Twinlop at the moment.Quote:
Originally Posted by doosra
has anyone seen or heard the BYP Ti exhaust?
i want to know if its loud when just cruising/driving normal?
the BYP Ti Exhaust is apparently loud, for a daily, a mate of mind is running it on his dc5r.Quote:
Originally Posted by kenny07
the power gain from the car is insane but i heard it drones a lot. some guy is selling it on gumtree have a look
http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/morle...ven/1009151672
i was thinking of gettin it but im probably gonna get the rmo1a as my spoon N1 is way to loud for me (GF gets woken up every morning) lol
whats your gf said about the ep3? compliments/complaints?Quote:
Originally Posted by Icebox
this is what i got from where about 6 months after i got the carQuote:
Originally Posted by butterfingers
Compliments:
cute car, heaps of space at the back (she does the shopping >.>), has a lot of power
complaints:
the exhaust is to loud (Axle back spoon n1), it was hard to learn at the beginning but shes use to it now and lastly she said it attracts too much attention from people trying to pick her up at the lights, i was laughing at the last complaint when i asked her awhile back whens we were having dinner.
LOL cute car.Quote:
Originally Posted by Icebox
got similar comments about the good things from my gf
but complaints go like this.
tries changing song on headunit. we go over pot hole. she ends up accidentally turning the aircon/hazards on.
tries changing song on headunit. i go to shift. "what ****en idiot at honda thought it was a good idea to put the shifter there?"
tries texting/fb on phone. go over pothole.
get into westfields parking lot... miss out 3 different spots cos i took too long going over a speed hump. sigh/ohemgee
drive along parra road for any length of time. i dont even..
gets into backseat "what the **** are these stupid bars here for?"
the only other thing, i forgot to add in was, she initially wanted me to get a Jazz, but lucky she said it was "cuter" then a jazz haha or i would be driving a Jazz this very minute =[Quote:
Originally Posted by butterfingers
LOL shifter complaints! yeah i get that some times as well, i recently changed my head unit and like i keep distracting her when shes watching a dvd~~
i dont have any any issues with the ride hieght, i raised it from 8cms to 12 for the gf >.> the way she drives i think my mid pipe and cat are probably scratch galore by now
but yeah... gfs.... its to hard to impress them, im forced to get a 4 door car next, probably an Evo or a Rex lol~~
Lol only complain I get is I have to park on the street or across the road cause I can't get up a certain hill/driveway/curb.
Any 70mm exhaust will be loud on the k engines, tho I heard from reading someones ep3 build from here that material quality was very brittleQuote:
Originally Posted by kenny07
oh okies... coz im very drawn into getting one... but im also worried about how loud it is...Quote:
Originally Posted by Icebox
dont want cops f**king with me coz its loud when im just driving around to work and etc etc
i guess the rm01a is a safe option and its also cheaper than the BYP Ti