EP3 Type R

So I took the car back to the exhaust shop today, they couldn't find anything where the exhaust could knock nor any idea what on earth that sound is. My next guess will be having the heat shields removed to see if it stops. The weather is getting crappier here and driving around in it today was driving me mental!

With regards to the starter motor noise, mine sometimes when cold start makes the noise you would get if you over start your car (try to start when already on). I have figured that it could be from either holding the key a fraction too long or too short, but too shorter time does not make sense...

Has anyone any other ideas what that bastard of a noise could be? I am at lost ends here and it sounds much worse than in the video.

Mine had just under that many kms when I bought it but it is a honda and will go forever if well maintained, look at the DC2's for instance, they are still fetching good money even with high 200s on the clock. I think 15k would be a good price, little on the cheap side depending on the condition.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by charliebrown

Hey guys, so i've been tossing up between the FN2 and EP3. only thing i like more about the fn2 is interior (seats and cluster), but i can live with the ep3 and also prefer the double din slot.

just wondering if anyone knows anything about this ep3 in melb, had B16TYM plates on it for a while. im going to have a look at it tmr. and considering the high kms, what do you think is a reasonable price?

http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthr...ite-EP3-Type-R

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Anything I should look out for on my own in particular? afaik only check mounts and steering rack for creaks. If everything goes well and we come to terms on a price, ill have a workshop do a thorough inspection

theres no service history or receipts on the car either, so i cant be sure its been looked after

If you take it for a test drive and floor it, make sure from gear 1 to 2 is smooth.

My car seems to be a bit stiff compared to my mates ep3. Not sure what the problem is, it's bearable but I guess faster gear 1 to 2 is better.

I got told to check the side skirts also, apparently they are expensive as if they are cracked etc. As with any import check for rust in the usual places including underneath (also to see if any oil marks). I also was advised to listen to any rear wheel noises, i.e. if bearings are going.

As above the gearbox should be smooth between gears, personally mine is a bit notchy but for what I paid I am not complaining.

One quick check you can do is take a measuring tape or string and measure from one centercap to the other on the same side.
And then do so to the other side the same way and it should be the same or very close. If not the car might have been crashed or something similar.
in regards to price.
I've bought one EP3 with 180,000kms lol the most i've ever heard of. for $12,000 imo it was a bargain and it was still running smoothly.
Then it was in a car accident and got more money then i paid for it so i bought one with 87,000 kms for 15.5k luckily.

I was tossing up between the one i bought and this one http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/port-...ur-/1017946849
and i think it's still for sale now.
The only reason i didn't buy the black one is because it hadn't landed yet. and also the one i bought was more value for money! hope that helps a little!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by charliebrown

Anything I should look out for on my own in particular? afaik only check mounts and steering rack for creaks. If everything goes well and we come to terms on a price, ill have a workshop do a thorough inspection

theres no service history or receipts on the car either, so i cant be sure its been looked after

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ohh also the ep3 in the ad i gave you looks like it has a mugen twinloop which is worthh monneyyss

yeah seen that black one, very nicely priced. might be worth a look even though im after one in CW

does it end up being worth it buying from a private sale? considering dealers arent that much more expensive and can be haggled down quite a bit. also their price includes the transfer/stampduty which is already around $600

Quote:

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Originally Posted by charliebrown

yeah seen that black one, very nicely priced. might be worth a look even though im after one in CW

does it end up being worth it buying from a private sale? considering dealers arent that much more expensive and can be haggled down quite a bit. also their price includes the transfer/stampduty which is already around $600

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once you go black you cant go back cb

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Originally Posted by LittleDragon^^

I didn't know what "wheel hop" was. Googled it and realised what that horrible feeling is when I launch it hard! So the cure is engine mounts? Any recommendations?!

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I shift too slow to have wheel hop.

But yes engine mounts would help a lot

Does anyoneknow where I can get the upper strut bearing plates for EP3?

Any info would be much appricated

Quote:

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Originally Posted by butterfingers

I shift too slow to have wheel hop.

But yes engine mounts would help a lot

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Thanks butterfingers. Are there any brands you'd recommend?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by LittleDragon^^

Thanks butterfingers. Are there any brands you'd recommend?

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It really depends what u plan to ise the car for and how much comfort ur willing to sacrifice if its a DD

theres hasport, innovative, hardrace, mugen, energy suspension (inserts only afaik) and most of them have different varieties of stiffness from 62a and up. Most of us here tend to stick with 62a or so from what ive seen

Quote:

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Originally Posted by charliebrown

yeah seen that black one, very nicely priced. might be worth a look even though im after one in CW

does it end up being worth it buying from a private sale? considering dealers arent that much more expensive and can be haggled down quite a bit. also their price includes the transfer/stampduty which is already around $600

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when i was tossing up between my one and that one
the prices were very similar all up..
That black one doesn't include rego. I offered him 15 for it which he seemed happy with and he also offered to come with when registering it. so all up that car would have cost a bit more than 16k due to rego and the transfer fees (not sure how expensive it is to register an import)
The white one i bought was a bit less than 16k all up. It had a about 13000 more kms but alot more sensible quality mods. and also it was available for pick up very quickly.
It's all up to you.
If you care about being Australia's first owner, or Low kms and maybe resale value then go for the black one.
Keep in mind the fuel economy might be bad due to it being a fresh import tuned to 100 octane. But i have no idea lols

Any other places to look besides ozhonda, carsales and gumtree? cant view the FS section on clubitr

Quote:

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Originally Posted by charliebrown

Any other places to look besides ozhonda, carsales and gumtree? cant view the FS section on clubitr

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you can give a call to some importers see if they can track the onw you want. but i expect that to cost a bit

Quote:

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Originally Posted by CWB

I got told to check the side skirts also, apparently they are expensive as if they are cracked etc. As with any import check for rust in the usual places including underneath (also to see if any oil marks). I also was advised to listen to any rear wheel noises, i.e. if bearings are going.

As above the gearbox should be smooth between gears, personally mine is a bit notchy but for what I paid I am not complaining.

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How can the side skirts crack? Its plastic

Quote:

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Originally Posted by markkkwan

you can give a call to some importers see if they can track the onw you want. but i expect that to cost a bit

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SSV can bring them in, but itll take a while and expecting it to be close to 20k for a mint one
power rd car sales list them for 18k, can pick up probs close to 16. mostly bad reviews from this place though so i dunno, plus guy on the phone sounded a bit dodge. going to have a look on sat
gran turismo autos have 4 in stock but listed as 20k :/

Quote:

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Originally Posted by charliebrown

SSV can bring them in, but itll take a while and expecting it to be close to 20k for a mint one
power rd car sales list them for 18k, can pick up probs close to 16. mostly bad reviews from this place though so i dunno, plus guy on the phone sounded a bit dodge. going to have a look on sat
gran turismo autos have 4 in stock but listed as 20k :/

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Shane from power rd sounds dodgy and mine was listed at about 18 and got it for close to 16

Quote:

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Originally Posted by CWB

So I took the car back to the exhaust shop today, they couldn't find anything where the exhaust could knock nor any idea what on earth that sound is. My next guess will be having the heat shields removed to see if it stops. The weather is getting crappier here and driving around in it today was driving me mental!

With regards to the starter motor noise, mine sometimes when cold start makes the noise you would get if you over start your car (try to start when already on). I have figured that it could be from either holding the key a fraction too long or too short, but too shorter time does not make sense...

Has anyone any other ideas what that bastard of a noise could be? I am at lost ends here and it sounds much worse than in the video.

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I don't know if anyone's answered this yet, but it's the ring gear inside the starter motor. It's made of plastic and in the cold slips. Only way to fix it is by replacing the ring gear with a metal one...Toda makes them, big job though as you need to take out the gear box. Best to do it on clutch install, however I've had it since I bought the car and have had no issues.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Twest

I don't know if anyone's answered this yet, but it's the ring gear inside the starter motor. It's made of plastic and in the cold slips. Only way to fix it is by replacing the ring gear with a metal one...Toda makes them, big job though as you need to take out the gear box. Best to do it on clutch install, however I've had it since I bought the car and have had no issues.

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dont need to remove gearbox to remove starter motor.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Twest

I don't know if anyone's answered this yet, but it's the ring gear inside the starter motor. It's made of plastic and in the cold slips. Only way to fix it is by replacing the ring gear with a metal one...Toda makes them, big job though as you need to take out the gear box. Best to do it on clutch install, however I've had it since I bought the car and have had no issues.

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Hey Dylan, so you had the noise from the very start too?

AAMI wont insure an EP3, WATAJK m8. just crap insurance only way to go :(

anyone know how negotiable JCI are? or will they tell me to getfkd cos they know they're the only company that will agree to insure

http://img690.imageshack.us/img690/332/12408603.jpg

Quote:

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Originally Posted by charliebrown

AAMI wont insure an EP3, WATAJK m8. just crap insurance only way to go :(

anyone know how negotiable JCI are? or will they tell me to getfkd cos they know they're the only company that will agree to insure

http://img690.imageshack.us/img690/332/12408603.jpg

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Aami is the worst insurance in the whole of Australia!
****en shit!

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Originally Posted by dc2screama

Aami is the worst insurance in the whole of Australia!
****en shit!

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bad experience mate? tell us about it

https://encrypted-tbn2.gstatic.com/i...3KwfrwAr_PDsmQ

GT auto's the most overpriced dealer ever. lmao

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Originally Posted by charliebrown

WATAJK

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http://i52.tinypic.com/b64lg4.gif

Has anyone got the link to fix the squeaky steering wheel.
I went back lookin for it but didn't manage to find it

Anyone here with NRMA for CTP green slip mine has sky rocket up like crazy =(

Yep got mine last week 774 bucks.
Came with a nice little letter telling u why greenslips have gone up in price
But then I heard on the radio that the government is gonna drop prices on greenslips so I googled It but it doesn't tell u when it kicks in.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Perry

Anyone here with NRMA for CTP green slip mine has sky rocket up like crazy =(

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Same here, due to the incidents in my area lol

Quote:

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Originally Posted by charliebrown

AAMI wont insure an EP3, WATAJK m8. just crap insurance only way to go :(

anyone know how negotiable JCI are? or will they tell me to getfkd cos they know they're the only company that will agree to insure

http://img690.imageshack.us/img690/332/12408603.jpg

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How old are you?

Im 23 with one car crash under my name which was a 28g pay out and my insurance on my ep3 is only 1200

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Originally Posted by LD_Mart

How old are you?

Im 23 with one car crash under my name which was a 28g pay out and my insurance on my ep3 is only 1200

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20. clean record but living in a pretty bad area

Quote:

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Originally Posted by LD_Mart

How old are you?

Im 23 with one car crash under my name which was a 28g pay out and my insurance on my ep3 is only 1200

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Who with? And what area?

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Originally Posted by doosra

Who with? And what area?

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Just Car Insurance - Near Hornsby
Just looked at my papers, $1291 on 625 excess

Quote:

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Originally Posted by LD_Mart

Just Car Insurance - Near Hornsby
Just looked at my papers, $1291 on 625 excess

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Wow. thats pretty crazy even if you didnt have the crash.

i tried a quote under dads name... whos clean record with 25+ years, still $1500 what is this rubbish

because chingvale.

dem cars go missing erry day.

say you live in toorak. just going to missus house in spingweo for a late night desert.

http://imageshack.us/scaled/landing/...wwhatimean.jpg

Quote:

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Originally Posted by charliebrown

Wow. thats pretty crazy even if you didnt have the crash.

i tried a quote under dads name... whos clean record with 25+ years, still $1500 what is this rubbish

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Try ur details and punch in 2077 Hornsby, it should come up cheaper. Crazy how much different suburbs determine ur insurance

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mocchi

say you live in toorak. just going to missus house in spingweo for a late night desert.

[IM G]http://imageshack.us/scaled/landing/839/ifyouknowwhatimean.jpg[/IMG]

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going for a dip ay

http://imageshack.us/scaled/landing/...wwhatimean.jpg

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Originally Posted by PHO

going for a dip ay

http://imageshack.us/scaled/landing/...wwhatimean.jpg

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Ask for permission if you're going to use someone elses pic!

http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/customa...ar38865_13.gif

Quote:

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Originally Posted by LD_Mart

Try ur details and punch in 2077 Hornsby, it should come up cheaper. Crazy how much different suburbs determine ur insurance

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LOL shiett comes up as 2000 instead of 3000

Buying old cars isnt worth it anymore =(

Quote:

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Originally Posted by LD_Mart

Has anyone got the link to fix the squeaky steering wheel.
I went back lookin for it but didn't manage to find it

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I fixed mine buy greasing up the knuckle before the firewall and then pulled the boots back and did the rack too to get the slider all greased up. Hasn't been an issue since.

Also, headlight adjustment... Is it the strange little gold screws on the back of the light on the side? They are in the worst spot ever... My lights are way up in the air and are useless.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by CWB

Also, headlight adjustment... Is it the strange little gold screws on the back of the light on the side? They are in the worst spot ever... My lights are way up in the air and are useless.

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You use a long Phillips head screw driver to turn the gears. If you look carefully there are small holes and brackets that hold the screw driver. Hard to explain lol

There's one at the corner of the headlight, fender side and one that's easily seen at the back of the headlight. Can't remember which adjusts which but it should say on the housing

http://img301.imageshack.us/img301/7852/lights3d.jpg

OK so the lower one. I wonder what the other one does that it says 'do not adjust' I am thinking left to right.

Thanks for your help

Quote:

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Originally Posted by nny911

Hey Dylan, so you had the noise from the very start too?

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Yes from the very start.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mocchi

dont need to remove gearbox to remove starter motor.

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Didn't say you had to, just assumed if you were doing your clutch would be easier to do the starter at the same time, that said I've changed my clutch twice now and never changed the ring gear inside the starter, it makes a noise but doesn't seem to cause any apparent problems. But yes if you wanted to I think you could get to it from the top by removing the intake manifold.

Hey guys,

I've been having a headache checking out the Wheel Setup thread... I couldn't find a definite answer...

As some of you know, I'm helping a friend build up his EP3R... I found a set of rims 17 x 8.5 +30... Now I'm finding conflicting information some say it won't fit no matter what, some saying front will fit but rear won't? Some say it will fit going stretched and not too low...

Personally I'd be happier with 17 x 8... But he wants it pumped lol... Thoughts?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by DreadAngel

Hey guys,

I've been having a headache checking out the Wheel Setup thread... I couldn't find a definite answer...

As some of you know, I'm helping a friend build up his EP3R... I found a set of rims 17 x 8.5 +30... Now I'm finding conflicting information some say it won't fit no matter what, some saying front will fit but rear won't? Some say it will fit going stretched and not too low...

Personally I'd be happier with 17 x 8... But he wants it pumped lol... Thoughts?

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I'm having this issue as well.

Also, I would like to upgrade to coil overs one day and lower my EP3 but have read that it'll worsen the handling. How would one go about lowering the car without sacrificing the handling? Or even better - improving it!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by DreadAngel

Hey guys,

I've been having a headache checking out the Wheel Setup thread... I couldn't find a definite answer...

As some of you know, I'm helping a friend build up his EP3R... I found a set of rims 17 x 8.5 +30... Now I'm finding conflicting information some say it won't fit no matter what, some saying front will fit but rear won't? Some say it will fit going stretched and not too low...

Personally I'd be happier with 17 x 8... But he wants it pumped lol... Thoughts?

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Depends on the tyres that he'll be running. Fronts shouldn't be too much of an issue. Rears I scrub on 225/45 (tiny bit of stretch) with rolled guards and negative 2.5 degrees of camber. No issues with 215/45 on same setup though.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by DreadAngel

Hey guys,

I've been having a headache checking out the Wheel Setup thread... I couldn't find a definite answer...

As some of you know, I'm helping a friend build up his EP3R... I found a set of rims 17 x 8.5 +30... Now I'm finding conflicting information some say it won't fit no matter what, some saying front will fit but rear won't? Some say it will fit going stretched and not too low...

Personally I'd be happier with 17 x 8... But he wants it pumped lol... Thoughts?

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My mate ran 17x8.5 +30 CE28.

Originally came with fat tyres - 235/45/17. That pretty much ate away the plastic splash guards at the front.

So in the end for it to work, he had 215/45/17 (stretched) tyres and the rear guard rolled.

Couple guys here run 17x9 no probs. have a look at rps.13s thread, he doesnt run over board stretch either.

As for its
Affect on handling that depends on the ride height, i heard roll centre adjusters help.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by butterfingers

Couple guys here run 17x9 no probs. have a look at rps.13s thread, he doesnt run over board stretch either.

As for its
Affect on handling that depends on the ride height, i heard roll centre adjusters help.

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215/45 on 9" rim is considerably stretched lol. Not to mentikn that amount of negative camber he had to run at that height haha!

That's 17x9 +18 though....

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Symphorced

215/45 on 9" rim is considerably stretched lol. Not to mentikn that amount of negative camber he had to run at that height haha!

That's 17x9 +18 though....

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I swear he wasnt running 215s lol. Brb gonna go thru his entire thread again!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by LittleDragon^^

I'm having this issue as well.

Also, I would like to upgrade to coil overs one day and lower my EP3 but have read that it'll worsen the handling. How would one go about lowering the car without sacrificing the handling? Or even better - improving it!

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The EP3 being Macpherson @ the front means its hyper sensitive to suspension changes, the force exerted on the driver is a few times more than that if the car had double wishbone. Coilovers in general tend to run stiff spring rate & the cheaper ones also tend to be underdampened thus the very very harsh ride to the point where its dangerous. Personally I think run softish good quality coilovers [Think like Bilstein for example], couple that with swaybars and suspension bushes. This should provide a comfortable ride while not exhibiting harsh characteristics. This setup has worked on my friend's car a treat, I was able to get the car to ride most of Sydney tarmac special stages without his gf complaining so mission accomplished for me hahaha.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Symphorced

Depends on the tyres that he'll be running. Fronts shouldn't be too much of an issue. Rears I scrub on 225/45 (tiny bit of stretch) with rolled guards and negative 2.5 degrees of camber. No issues with 215/45 on same setup though.

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Hey Symphorced! Ahhhh icic! I'm certainty hoping not to go too stretched, defeats the purpose of me making it go faster... White TE37s in 17 x 8.5 on a White EP3R... *drools* I might post up some more stuff about this project EP3R later =) How is it on full lock?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Poeter

My mate ran 17x8.5 +30 CE28.

Originally came with fat tyres - 235/45/17. That pretty much ate away the plastic splash guards at the front.

So in the end for it to work, he had 215/45/17 (stretched) tyres and the rear guard rolled.

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Eeeeee... Munched the guards... Damn...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by DreadAngel

Hey guys,

I've been having a headache checking out the Wheel Setup thread... I couldn't find a definite answer...

As some of you know, I'm helping a friend build up his EP3R... I found a set of rims 17 x 8.5 +30... Now I'm finding conflicting information some say it won't fit no matter what, some saying front will fit but rear won't? Some say it will fit going stretched and not too low...

Personally I'd be happier with 17 x 8... But he wants it pumped lol... Thoughts?

---

I'm running 17x8.5+30 right now. I use a 224/45/17 tyre all round. I have BC BR coilovers and dont have much of a wheel gap. I run -3.5 front and -2.5 rear camber setups and it sits very very nice.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by dnapol

I'm running 17x8.5+30 right now. I use a 224/45/17 tyre all round. I have BC BR coilovers and dont have much of a wheel gap. I run -3.5 front and -2.5 rear camber setups and it sits very very nice.

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Sexy thanks man... How much modification work did you have to do?

Would you have a picture by any chance? =)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Symphorced

215/45 on 9" rim is considerably stretched lol. Not to mentikn that amount of negative camber he had to run at that height haha!

That's 17x9 +18 though....

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Lol 215/45 on 9 inches is not bad! 175/50 on 9 inches is crazy.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tqv1uZqyN-w

Quote:

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Originally Posted by DreadAngel

The EP3 being Macpherson @ the front means its hyper sensitive to suspension changes, the force exerted on the driver is a few times more than that if the car had double wishbone. Coilovers in general tend to run stiff spring rate & the cheaper ones also tend to be underdampened thus the very very harsh ride to the point where its dangerous. Personally I think run softish good quality coilovers [Think like Bilstein for example], couple that with swaybars and suspension bushes. This should provide a comfortable ride while not exhibiting harsh characteristics. This setup has worked on my friend's car a treat, I was able to get the car to ride most of Sydney tarmac special stages without his gf complaining so mission accomplished for me hahaha.



Hey Symphorced! Ahhhh icic! I'm certainty hoping not to go too stretched, defeats the purpose of me making it go faster... White TE37s in 17 x 8.5 on a White EP3R... *drools* I might post up some more stuff about this project EP3R later =) How is it on full lock?



Eeeeee... Munched the guards... Damn...

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Thanks for the reply DreadAngel. Sounds like an expensive and time consuming task. I'll leave it till last along with wheels :)

Want to sort out this wheel hopping annoyance first...

You mean the stuttering? Wouldn't a torque damper help? Or mounts?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by DreadAngel

You mean the stuttering? Wouldn't a torque damper help? Or mounts?

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Yeah that's what the general advice has been other than not launching it too hard haha :)
Any recommendations on brand of mounts and dampers?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by DreadAngel

Hey Symphorced! Ahhhh icic! I'm certainty hoping not to go too stretched, defeats the purpose of me making it go faster... White TE37s in 17 x 8.5 on a White EP3R... *drools* I might post up some more stuff about this project EP3R later =) How is it on full lock?

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Hey mate! Good to see you're still helping your friend perfect his setup. I don't run that tyre/wheel size up front so unsure - highly doubt it would be an issue if he runs 225/45 or 215/45. For my track setup, I run 245/40 on 17x9 +35 and I get scrub on the inside wheel arch on full lock though... :p

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Symphorced

Hey mate! Good to see you're still helping your friend perfect his setup. I don't run that tyre/wheel size up front so unsure - highly doubt it would be an issue if he runs 225/45 or 215/45. For my track setup, I run 245/40 on 17x9 +35 and I get scrub on the inside wheel arch on full lock though... :p

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Hehehe, well he wanted me to be the technical advisor for the project so happy to take up the mantle =D

So far we've got:

Gruppe M Intake
Bilstein B14 PSS [I think it is]
Endless SSS Pads
RDA Rotors [I said DBA...]

Coming Soon:

TODA 4-2-1 Headers
Hi-Flow CAT [Magnaflow]
Custom 70mm Centre Pipe
Kakimoto N1 Axle Back
White TE37 17" x 8.5 +30
Bridgestone RE11 225/45R17

Future well depends how much more he wants after the new setup goes on and where he wants to head to :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by LittleDragon^^

Yeah that's what the general advice has been other than not launching it too hard haha :)
Any recommendations on brand of mounts and dampers?

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Torque Damper most of the JDM brands have it for EP3R off my head? [Spoon, J's, etc]

As for mounts how much comfort you're willing to sacrifice :p

Is your mate named Thomas by any chance? That mod list is very familier

Hahaha, you know him?

Yeah i went on a cruise with him to palm beach. Im mates with the old owner too.

Small world lol

Quote:

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Originally Posted by stienerv2

Yeah i went on a cruise with him to palm beach. Im mates with the old owner too.

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by bluey45

Small world lol

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Small world indeed!

Ah you know was it Nick/Nicholas?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by DreadAngel

Small world indeed!

Ah you know was it Nick/Nicholas?

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It would be Nic it's his mate. I remember buying a tow hook from him when still drove a ep3 before he went to a lotus lol.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by dnapol

I'm running 17x8.5+30 right now. I use a 224/45/17 tyre all round. I have BC BR coilovers and dont have much of a wheel gap. I run -3.5 front and -2.5 rear camber setups and it sits very very nice.

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With 225/45 on 17x8.5 +30, would this still be possible without any camber changes?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Poeter

With 225/45 on 17x8.5 +30, would this still be possible without any camber changes?

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Depends on if you're lowered. Front should be fine. Rear will scrub like mofo if you have passengers or going over bumps in the road. I had -2.5 and still scrubbed with passengers and going over bumps. -3.5 eliminated most of the scrubbing but not ideal for track work so I reverted back to -2.5.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by bluey45

It would be Nic it's his mate. I remember buying a tow hook from him when still drove a ep3 before he went to a lotus lol.

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Crap, I think I might know who he is lol...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Symphorced

Depends on if you're lowered. Front should be fine. Rear will scrub like mofo if you have passengers or going over bumps in the road. I had -2.5 and still scrubbed with passengers and going over bumps. -3.5 eliminated most of the scrubbing but not ideal for track work so I reverted back to -2.5.

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Did the rear receive the lip/roll/nip/tuck/etc Symphorced?

Yeah Nick is my best mate. Tom would have seen my ep with rpf1s.

It's easy to fit those offsets, especially since he has those blistiens lol

OH!!! I think I know which EP3R you are now, saw his photos and EP3 with I think silver RPF1?

lol yep, thats me. Im selling those wheels and got something else

Quote:

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Originally Posted by stienerv2

lol yep, thats me. Im selling those wheels and got something else

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I know what you got victor ;)

You can try hide but grade a will always snap you. But fk gj man your cars progressed alot. Makes me sad i wont be the only guy in syd with an airwalker.ep3:(

Lol Berty was the first one to upload the pic. Came out really good.

Thanks for the compliment.

When are you gonna get the airwalker?