IMO when there are 2 reputable parties arguing and both believe they are 100% correct... its hard to know who is genunine and who is bullshitting. But usually the bullshitter is the one with the most to loose....
IMO when there are 2 reputable parties arguing and both believe they are 100% correct... its hard to know who is genunine and who is bullshitting. But usually the bullshitter is the one with the most to loose....
cheers anyway mate
Update Guys
My little problem with boost not holding after 5500RPM is now fixed and **** yeah its nice to drive now :)
Installed a new GCG 8 pound actuator and she holds boost all the way to red line no problems at all :thumbsup: also make my idle far smoother.
I went from 11psi to about 8psi but shes now noticeable quicker.. can't wait for 10psi once my head gasket is fixed in two weeks...
$130 bucks well spent
glad to hear its goin great now :D
Hey Guys
I'm about to get my new HG installed but I not 100% sure torque setting..
ARP list 60 ftlbs
http://www.d-series.org/forums/showt...t=78591&page=2
Recommend 70 ftlbs
Guys on here say 75 ftlbs to 85 ftlbs
??????
So are you using the ARP Head studs or OEM bolts?
Because that would make a difference as to how much torque you apply
i'd go with manufacturer's specs. They made them i'm sure they know how much they should be torqued to
You can't have studs AND bolts; dumb ass it's either one or the other
When using ARP fasteners you should use ARP torque settings... Seriously just go read the FAQ on ARP website -_-
Studs and nuts
https://www.jacksonautomachine.com/i...ExStudsMit.jpg
Bolts
http://www.boltdepot.com/images/Chro...-hex-bolts.jpg
Learn the difference