Didnt win unfortunately but it was fukn mint one grade 4.5 would have been close to18k onroad if i went all out. And now we wait some more :DQuote:
Originally Posted by DreadAngel
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Didnt win unfortunately but it was fukn mint one grade 4.5 would have been close to18k onroad if i went all out. And now we wait some more :DQuote:
Originally Posted by DreadAngel
Damn!!! I know how you feel bro!Quote:
Originally Posted by charliebrown
One very nice AE111, I think they graded it 4? Had full TRD/Tom's Aero, Advan RG, Recaro optional interior, etc... Missed out :(
Haha its all part of the fun. Bzr ae111 rare as shit to come up a nice one . Can imagine youd be much more excited than me when one pops upQuote:
Originally Posted by DreadAngel
Lol, that was 6yrs+ ago bro :p
I haven't hit vtec for 5 months.
Holy **** I think I need to soon
dont do it manQuote:
Originally Posted by butterfingers
will lead to oil starvation
Shit no wonder everyone else's ep3 is breaking down so much, dat vtec oil starvationQuote:
Originally Posted by RenzokukenJ
To be honest and completely serious, when I bought the missus's BB6, I found a reciept from Honda when they took it to service and complained that VTEC didnt work.. Because of no oil... Jesus.Quote:
Originally Posted by butterfingers
That was in 2002, and again in 2003. haha
Just make sure you top it up? Not that hard XD
I do every time I fill up petrol..Quote:
Originally Posted by DreadAngel
But since missus drives it, it never sees vtec ay
Unless I jump in, but I only check it to see if its working ;)
But yeah, it was a little silly, I mean, its like its a difficult and time consuming task...
The previous owner was a clueless guy anyway, car was in terrible shape because he had no idea how to maintain it
No goodo :(
why would you buy your missus a lemon?
idea of her breaking down on a road near wolf creek sound hectic to you ay
lol jk mate
on another note i see plenty of chicks boosting and vtecing, around the south-west
was 2k for ATTS model, with shit loads of modsQuote:
Originally Posted by butterfingers
was goot wun
fixed it now, pretty much with all shit fixed it cost her 4k including rego (was unregoed)
has anyone in victoria gone to have a look at this ep3 yet?
http://www.carsales.com.au/private/d...-2181995/?Cr=7
any feed back on it?
got some new stoptech pads and hel braided brake lines with fresh brake & clutch fluid. First time i braked from 80-60kph, the car jerked lol, the pedal feel and bite was a huge difference! stopping from 100kph to 0 for a traffic light feels alot more confident and positive.
pretty cheap SSR's looks like 16'sQuote:
Originally Posted by flop101
recently I purchased some plug leads from ebay for an evo 1 and from FITZRACEQuote:
Originally Posted by brody
the leads appear to be a knock off and are made by Arospeed{not AEROSPEED} and dont have the right angle plug end at the coil pack end as the genuine lead does. even though the ones on the ebay picture did...so because the wire is pointing vertical when plugged into the coil pack, the lead hits the bonett BEFORE it closes. The pressure applied from the fully closed bonett will eventually crack the insulation and the lead will short out.
Whilst after some days of pictures and emails I was offered a refund by the seller FITZRACE. I am just annoyed enough by the crap that transpired to refused the 83 bucks and keep the leads to show people how badly they fit.
yes this is a rant...but since the seller implies mine is the only sent that they have sold where he has had a complaint. I am guessing there wont be a design change.
got some pics?Quote:
Originally Posted by bmgtz
aye viett you running the discontinued toda racing catback? came with car?
yes I do...trying figure out how to attach..Quote:
Originally Posted by mocchi
Use http://postimage.org to upload the photo.Quote:
Originally Posted by bmgtz
Then place the link to the image in the image code.
Eg. [IMG"]http://postimage.org/image.jpg[/IMG] (remove the quote in the first bracket)
Quote:
Originally Posted by lolmclol
[IMG]<a href='http://postimg.org/image/p8ab9ladj/' target='_blank'><img src='http://s23.postimg.org/p8ab9ladj/lead_comparision.jpg' border='0' alt="lead comparision" /></a>[/IMG]
http://s23.postimg.org/m1frpypxm/lead_comparision.jpgQuote:
Originally Posted by bmgtz
anyone tried the hybrid racing bushings at either shifter end or transmission end? not sure if i should get some from the group buy
Make sure it fits our cars.
I bought a white 2002 EP3 today...magnificent car to drive. Couldn't wipe the smile from my face cornering while throwing it back into 2nd around corners.
Had a 1995 FTO GPX for 10 years prior.
congrads mate where did you purchase the car private or from importer?Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackBird
Thanks Perry, I bought it through an importer.
I've got solid (aluminum) shifter cable bushings and they made shifting feel more positive and solid. They aren't hybrid racing but pretty much the same thing. I didn't really notice a difference with the shifter cable bushings tho, unless your oem ones are all worn out.Quote:
Originally Posted by charliebrown
So after school on my birthday I was walking to my car thinking where the eff my friends went and why they ditched me after school. As I got to my car I saw this.
http://i1334.photobucket.com/albums/...ps1e747134.jpg
http://i1334.photobucket.com/albums/...ps6aaa9f4f.jpg
http://i1334.photobucket.com/albums/...psb36d7449.jpg
Then they surprised me with this!
http://i1334.photobucket.com/albums/...psee95953d.jpg
Nice:thumbup:Quote:
Originally Posted by viett
baller high school friends
Nah, the dude is baller, his friends are just good friends lolQuote:
Originally Posted by RenzokukenJ
ShiiiiQuote:
Originally Posted by DreadAngel
Wtb baller self
$$$ono!Quote:
Originally Posted by RenzokukenJ
Just got a CEL for a failing primary o2 sensor. ordered a new one, Denso part no. 234-9005. Just wondering, does a CEL cause the car to run differently?
Car will probably run rich.Quote:
Originally Posted by UNA91
Well, the main purpose of the oxygen sensor is work out the air-to fuel ratio. In effect the ECU uses that ratio to determine the amount fuel trim required to maintain a ratio that provides good power, fuel economy and allow the cat to work properly for clean emissions.Quote:
Originally Posted by UNA91
What happens when this no longer work? The ecu is not able to determine accurately what fuel trim is required, so on the safe side the ECU will most likely provide a richer fuel mixture than it normally does and hence poor fuel economy and dirty emissions due to high count of carbon.
When cruising on constant speed or driving on light acceleration, you may feel very subtle judder with your car. That's because the ECU is trying operate in a closed loop state which means it is tapping into the oxygen sensor that has failed.
However, on hard acceleration or WOT (wide open throttle), a failed oxygen sensor is irrelevant because the ECU ignores the sensor by default relies a pre-programmed fuel map to manage the fuel on your car.
In my opinion if you want the best fuel economy, I would to use the original Honda part rather than sourcing a denso one. Reason is because you're not 100% sure if the sensor response characteristics is identical to that of the Honda sensor. Yes the Honda sensor maybe made from the same manufacturer and Denso is good enough get rid of the CEL based on reports from people already using the aftermarket denso sensor. However, based on that you can't accurately conclude it will perform the same as the Honda sensor.
I think the only accurate way to determine if they are same part is to hook the sensors up to an oscilloscope, blast the sensor with metered oxygen gas and compare the voltage curve to each other. Or if a Honda engineer can formally confirm that they
use exact same sensor as the aftermarket denso sensor.
Hope this helps.
Would it be possible for a O2 sensor to be broken without the ECU throwing codes?
Thanks, my car did feel like it's going to stall for a sec when I come to a stop or in stop and go traffic but this was before the cel came on, tho I had always thought it had to do with the idle air control sensor. I don't see a difference in fuel economy or performance tho. Installed the new denso sensor and cel is now gone :) both oem and denso look very identical, incl the wire colorsQuote:
Originally Posted by Poeter
yeah i am, wassup? sorry for late reply first time seeing thisQuote:
Originally Posted by charliebrown
anyone else get dat centerlink bonus for car parts?
hey guys.. my induction hose on my EP3 has a big ass split on it... anyone here know where i can get a new one...
?
SFS induction hose on ebay. $110 ishQuote:
Originally Posted by kenny07
OEM honda hose is a bit cheaper but might as well get another one cos the stock one might just split again
ohh... sorry.. but forgot to mention.. i already knew what to search for .. but i was wondering is there any shops that would sell the SFS induction hoseQuote:
Originally Posted by charliebrown
email jay at xposed
can i get his details please?Quote:
Originally Posted by charliebrown
actually marcus at jdmaccessories should have tegiwa induction hose in stock. i think its 120.
Cpl racing are the company to contact for anything for a EP3
what does it mean if the seller states the car is listed on PPRS? im assuming it means its got money owing on it?
anything else to look out for with cars listed on PPRS?
I think it means its been written offQuote:
Originally Posted by flop101
PPRS is either encumbered or major accident/written off =)
Quote:
Originally Posted by PPSR Check
How much does a mugen rep lip in CW go for approx?
Ok guys what is the max rear sway bar size we could use on our ep3?
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2002-2003...94f93bd&_uhb=1Quote:
Originally Posted by charliebrown
$320 for a brand new one shipped unpainted, probably $400 - $450 all together painted.
I wouldn't pay more than $300 for a used one.
has anyone bough from JDMaccessories?Quote:
Originally Posted by charliebrown
are they reliable? as in, if i do purchase anything from them online, will i get my product?
just want to make sure, as i normally dont purchase products online, i like to do pick up
and JDMaccessories are saying they are moving their stocks around and pick up wont be available until all stocks are re-arrange
can anyone vouch for them?
i just wnat to know before i do make my purchase
thanks
Yeah that's what I was thinking. Found one but he wants $360 and it's not in the best conditionQuote:
Originally Posted by viett
I can vouch for them. I didn't have any issues with my purchase, I bought my ASR brace from them when I had my EP3. I think the guy is called Marcus, very easy to deal with.Quote:
Originally Posted by kenny07
oh okies.... cool.. thanksQuote:
Originally Posted by bluey45
anyone else can vouch for them?
What sort of paint job do you expect for $80? Rattle can? lolQuote:
Originally Posted by viett
Haha reasonable paint job would be like 120-150? I've never actually seen a good colour matched CW lip. always look more whiteQuote:
Originally Posted by Symphorced
I can, you can pick up the stuff from his house too, to save on shippingQuote:
Originally Posted by kenny07
got my oem dc2r lip matched and painted for 150
looks grouce
Don't think you'd be able to get a Mugen EP3 lip painted for that price though. Requires a lot more paint than regular lips due to the undertray. Though most replicas don't have the undertray.Quote:
Originally Posted by charliebrown
also, if its fibreglass like the original, painting prices tend to be a little more :\
Went for an oil change and found that 5L bottle of oil didn't even fill the dip stick halfway. I thought the engine oil capacity was a little less than 5L? Car is not leaking or burning oil at all, he said it might be the way my car is lowered, making it drain out more oil each change..
^ Engine oil capacity with stock sump should be 4.7l to 5l. Make sure your car is leveled when your filling engine oil
My friend is a panel beater and I worked for him for a while so price for it sprayed doesn't concern me at all, but should be around $120 for it sprayed.Quote:
Originally Posted by Symphorced
fuark 5L not enough? good to know... i was gonna go with a 5quart or a 5L bottle.
well apparently 5l is meant to be more than enough, just not sure why my dip stick is reading just under half way. This was all done in my mechanic's workshop flat ground and all
do you have an oil cooler?Quote:
Originally Posted by UNA91
i use just over 4 littres on my k20.
on my old b18c7 i used an extra lt because of oil cooler
Manual says that capacity should be 4.7L
Can vouch for marcus @ jdmaccessories, have bought my tegiwa 4-2-1 headers and shifter extender from him. Nice guy and easy to communicate with!Quote:
Originally Posted by kenny07
Nope, no oil cooler, but speaking of oil capacity, how much oil comes out when I remove the oil filter? Need to replace my oil pressure sender and install oil temp gauge on the sandwich plate. If it's too much, I might just do it in my next service since it could get messy as the filter is fairly confined.
Anyone run a short antenna?
hmm maybe its because i run a baffled sumpQuote:
Originally Posted by Symphorced
Filter takes roughly 200mL, if anyone uses a short antenna let me know brand/where you got it/size
I ran a spoon short antenna when I had my EP3. I think symphorced runs the same one.Quote:
Originally Posted by greenek
You mean J's Racing. :pQuote:
Originally Posted by bluey45
Hasn't been long enough for you to forget already!
They're about $100 aye? Is it worth it? Anyone try the eBay ones like this http://pages.ebay.com/motors/link/?n...d=360223429927Quote:
Originally Posted by Symphorced