WTF, who did your alignment?
Firstly, they can't find your car.
Secondly your toe is off, your camber at the front is un even
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WTF, who did your alignment?
Firstly, they can't find your car.
Secondly your toe is off, your camber at the front is un even
Shouldn't camber be less negative on the drivers side compared to the passenger at the front?
Seems to be opposite. :/
Who did that alignment? Lol
With the camber plates, they should of got the even camber settings.
epvtir
Even camber settings only ideal when they do the alignment with a person in the drivers seat.
Usually the front drivers wheel has less camber than the passenger, to account for the weight in drivers seat.
Once you sit in car camber should be almost even.
But hes got more camber on the drivers side compared to the left side. So I'm a bit confused..
God damn.. Seems they did a shit job aye. Can u guys tell me what I should be looking for then? Might go back or go to someone else...
Here are my old results with the RPF1s 17*9+22 and + 35
https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.n...18453743_n.jpg
17 x 7 +24 and kumho ku31 215/45/17
My older settings for my 17*7+30 and 215/40/17 were:
Height: Saggy Tein S-Tech Springs (Slammed)
Front Camber: -1.5
Front Toe: +0.21
Rear Camber: -3 (not ideal, I reckon -2.5 was enough)
Rear Toe: +0.5
Rear bumper remained unmolested until i got the 9 inch wheels in
stanceworks bro you wouldnt understand
http://img9.imageshack.us/img9/1945/oeme.jpg
Honda: Civic / Ballade / CR-X : EP3
wat
Peter pls y u photoshop name
anyone had a 100cel hi-flo metal cat added to the test pipe on a set of plm headers? just after cost from those who have done it before
That's with the hi flow cat as well, not just labour
I think you mix up Type M with Type Z?
Yeah dislike DS2500, did not like them at all -_-
For bias towards track, I'm assuming you'll be using tyres with grip levels like KU36, AD08, RE11, etc...
Use pads like Endless MX72/MX72RS where the operating temp can be a little higher than 0 with friction coefficients can go towards 0.50µ. To use these type of pads, ensure you have good rotors [Preferably heat treated to withstand the additional abrasive nature of these type of pads.] and tyres [Especially if you disable your ABS].
Type M on rear at most if tracking, NG for track at the front...
I figured it would be easier to hack up the test pipe for the flanges and bung since I wouldn't risk running the tp anyway
Ahhhh might work, depends on your CAT, may have to shorten/weld ends to meet :p
yeah i figured something like this would fit within a chopped up TP
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2-5-VENOM...b8fc0b4&_uhb=1
http://www.listingfactoryhost.com/us...8360_thumb.jpg
No one keen for todds tie rods? :(
$357 if buy 1
$330 if 2
$315 if 3
any recommendations on coilovers for street use (sydney roads :s). mainly just getting want it a bit lower than stock height and more comfy. was weighing up buddyclub n+ which is around $1500, bc racing $1200, neomax $1300. max i want to spend is $1500. but if say the bc racing ones are similar in quality to buddyclub, then id go bc racing.
coilovers wont be more comfy thats for sure
stock is hella soft
I found stock suspension quite hard on the ep3. My <1500 coils are fine but im used to bumpy rides anyway
Silverneos are horrible. They don't fit the stock tie rods properly since it is not tapered and poorly designed.
Hi everyone,
I want to get my major service out of the way for my JDM EP3R. It's a little over 70000km at the moment and IMG told me they only replaced the fluids when importing.
So my question is - which parts should I get replaced and what are their part numbers? The Honda dealer in Darwin (yes, we only have one Honda shop :( ) isn't very knowledgeable when it comes to the imports so would just like to go in there and get them to order parts without much fuss.
Any help would be greatly appreciated! :)
There wasn't many things to do when I imported my car at 72xxx
Oil
Oil filter
Spark plugs part no. NGK ZFR6FIX-11
Air filter
Cabin filter
Fuel filter part no. 16010-S5A-932
MTF
Coolant
Valve clearances
Obviously check all bushes and items that wear out over time like engine mounts, drive belts, brakes, driveshaft/steering rack boots, tie rod ends
I believe some people also readjust/check the timing chain, tensioner and replace the water pump
Cheapest would be to get your oil from repco sales, oil filter/MTF/coolant from mekong spares, cabin filter from US ebay ($20-25), fuel filter from the UK (~$50), spark plugs from ebay (~$50-60).
You'd be paying a crazy amount on fluids and filters from honda dealer
Thanks CB.
I trust my mechanic and he's very thorough so not too concerned about the bushes and wear and tear parts you mentioned. However, I'll mention them to him before he gets stuck into the job :)
Where would I go to get the water pump? Not too keen on going through Honda...
Does Repco have genuine Honda oils or do you have experience with other oils that make your car perform better?
I just Googled Mekong Spares as I didn't know what you meant. Are you talking about the NSW shop? Do you think it'll be cheaper to buy from there and have it shipped?
Use Penrite 10tenths racing from Repco. Cheap and excellent oil.
MTF go genuine.
I'm after a throttle body gasket for the k20a, anyone have part number? Honda is useless
If you have a PRB/C IM it will be the same gasket.
anyone own the ep3 at wattle grove tonight ?
Let me know if you need any oem EP3 parts ;)
after part number for auxiliary belt. Mine looking abit frayed....
wanna compare number against the belt on 08 ctr
Allo allo Steve
Steve its 7PK1637
Just out of curiosity, has anyone run 215/50/17s? As opposed to 225/45 on 8.5. I want to increase the sidewall but not have tyre that wide cos it'll need more neg camber to fit
I dont understand what you are trying to achieve by doibg this? It will effect your rolling diameter which will throw out your speedo
To reduce wheel gap as I don't want to drop the car too much, as the lip will be sitting too low on the current 215/45. Was just a thought, awkward tyre size
hey guys haven't posted in a while
only things ive changed are new rims Enkei RPF1 Black and a Spoon N1 exhaust enjoy
http://i786.photobucket.com/albums/y...psdbf94b3b.jpg
http://i786.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps999a7abc.jpg
http://i786.photobucket.com/albums/y...pscb121564.jpg
http://i786.photobucket.com/albums/y...psfe32b1d6.jpg
on the ToDo list
BC coilovers
Front camber bolts
headers and high flow cat
Is that 17x9 +22?
Aren't u already lowered? How did u go with it all, any scrub?
Nah on standard springs and shocks at the moment like I said the coilovers are on the todo list and yeah the rear does scrub a little on the inside lip but I'm getting my guards rolled by Nelson at Sydney guard rolling
Is it just me or do a lot of stock EP3s have negative rake? My stupid door closes by itself and have trouble seeing the kerb in front when parking
http://www.vlturbo.com/images/galler...meet-point.jpg
Yeah i think you're right cb, my mates ep3 appears to have that rake.
I notice that too, the door seems heavy to open and just wants to shut on you
the doors closed on my shins so many times....
lmzo... had the door close on me with the key inside while fixing central locking and had the button down. very lucky phone wasnt in the car, called mum to drive over with the spare key. would have cried
damn door troll
I have same problem but only the drivers side.
My driver side recaro seems kinda flimsy.The right side plastic back where your lats rest has a lot of play in it. I can't seem to figure out if anything is loose as everything is just covered in plastic. Anyone's like this? Would like to fix it as it makes the seat feel so cheap
Haha yeap. Same as me. Some plastic circle thing came off on the inner side of the seat and its not as snug as it used to. Passenger seems fine. I just left it.
The plastic circle thing next to the seatbelt, when taken off doesn't even line up with the hole with some weird bolt and star washer its meant to cover. I can push it to where it should be but it just goes back to being way off.. makes a clicking noise sometimes too :(