B16a- Stroker kit vs B18?

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24-06-2009, 12:37 PM
ZeForce

I have always thought a LSVTEC with B16a pistons would make for a nice street setup. Deck the block 20 thou, ARP rod bolts and head studs, new rings and bearings, etc, etc shouldnt cost too much and will give you enough compression to use a decent sized cam. Add the usual I/H/E + IM/TB + tuning and I reckon you would have yourself a decent NA setup.
24-06-2009, 01:01 PM
90LAN

whats your budget
are you doing it yourself
or paying someone ?
24-06-2009, 01:14 PM
CRXer

Quote:

Originally Posted by reedyek4

i dont know what the weight difference is between a b16 and a b18 but surely stroking the b16 must be lighter then the b18? could be wrong

9-10mm worth of alloy on top of the block,9-10mm lower centre of gravity.............
meh,i'll take the longer rods option thanx.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Benson

You can tell the difference between a b16a and b18c block

I know proconcept is running a stroked B16a to stay in their class

is there some sort of readily visual external ID(besides engine#) without measuring?

how would u tell at the track,besides pulling a random dyno run on the class & inspecting all the sus figures?

despise class cheats,they are the ones that get more enjoyment out of proving themselves better than others,rather than just enjoying driving for the sake of it.
driver skill>class cheats
24-06-2009, 01:25 PM
e240

Quote:

Originally Posted by CRXer

ahh yes,the ol' sneaky engine number trick
i wonder if many people try it on in class racing?

Quote:

Originally Posted by CRXer

despise class cheats,they are the ones that get more enjoyment out of proving themselves better than others,rather than just enjoying driving for the sake of it.
driver skill>class cheats

No point actually - If you look at IPRA, its "Under 2 litres" or "Over 2 litres"
So even if you bored up a 1.6 to 1.8 or even 2, you're still within the class - Thats not cheating.

It only matters if you have a 2litre B16 and you enter in under 1600 category (CAMS Supersprints), but as far as I know, one competitor ran a B16 in 1601 to 2000, but that not cheating either - Well within the rules. :wave:

Well, at the grass roots level - alot is taken on good faith - but seriously, there's no point cheating anyway, I mean, its only bragging rights you win..LOL

Quote:

Originally Posted by Benson

I know proconcept is running a stroked B16a to stay in their class

Proconcept ran the B16 block not so much to stay in class but to counter weight penalties. Had they ran a different block compared to what the car came with, IPRA rules states they will have to meet a minimum weight requirement.

Similar with Supersprints, which technically should comply with 3J rules (IPRA).
24-06-2009, 01:44 PM
CRXer

yeh,i got no idea of class rules leo,i'll prob never be fortunate enough to even go class racing lol.

just dont like the people abusing the "good faith" leaving the other drivers doubting their own skill.i can think of one person illegally using slicks in his grass roots class & bragging all over another forum right at this very moment.........
24-06-2009, 02:16 PM
Benson

Quote:

Originally Posted by CRXer

9-10mm worth of alloy on top of the block,9-10mm lower centre of gravity.............
meh,i'll take the longer rods option thanx.

is there some sort of readily visual external ID(besides engine#) without measuring?

how would u tell at the track,besides pulling a random dyno run on the class & inspecting all the sus figures?

despise class cheats,they are the ones that get more enjoyment out of proving themselves better than others,rather than just enjoying driving for the sake of it.
driver skill>class cheats

There is a little trick to know if its a b16a or b18c block.. i think is checking the water port outlet or something along those lines
24-06-2009, 02:16 PM
Benson

Quote:

Originally Posted by ZeForce

I have always thought a LSVTEC with B16a pistons would make for a nice street setup. Deck the block 20 thou, ARP rod bolts and head studs, new rings and bearings, etc, etc shouldnt cost too much and will give you enough compression to use a decent sized cam. Add the usual I/H/E + IM/TB + tuning and I reckon you would have yourself a decent NA setup.

:thumbsup:

My mate had a similar set-up which made decent power for the money spent :)
24-06-2009, 03:11 PM
CRXer

Quote:

Originally Posted by Benson

There is a little trick to know if its a b16a or b18c block.. i think is checking the water port outlet or something along those lines

your thinking of the water outlet on the head
pr3-intake side
p72-exhaust side
24-06-2009, 04:21 PM
Benson

i mean the distance of the water port to the gearbox or the block(i think)
24-06-2009, 04:55 PM
Limbo

there's a bleeder valve for the radiator near the water port your looking at for a b18 & b16 doesn't have one
24-06-2009, 05:43 PM
CRXer

Quote:

Originally Posted by Benson

i mean the distance of the water port to the gearbox or the block(i think)

oh ok,yeh that makes sense,i suppose if uve seen enough of them it would be easy to spot evrything moved up or down 10mm or so.
24-06-2009, 07:36 PM
TODA AU

Quote:

Originally Posted by Benson

i mean the distance of the water port to the gearbox or the block(i think)

B16A base of the cyl head is level with top of gearbox...
B16B~B18C~b18A~B20B the base of the cyl head is 7mm above the top of the box

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