its on the engine. black follow the top hose. it'll lead you to a metal casing.
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its on the engine. black follow the top hose. it'll lead you to a metal casing.
thought so, thanks.. bloody user manual duznt say where lolQuote:
Originally Posted by SuiJin
its a common honda fault when you dont use honda coolant
and use cheap coolant or water
its you radiator partially blocked
So I need to get it cleaned out?
And where can I grab the coolant from Lan?
cheers
best to buy a new generic new radiator from wreckersQuote:
Originally Posted by Chriskoss
for a price of a clean out
coolant from honda lol
New? from wreckers.. lol riight
Wreckers also order replacement parts. I buy my transmission fluid and coolant from wreckers. They give me new bottles and not stuff that they drain out from the wrecked cars.Quote:
Originally Posted by Chriskoss
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chriskoss
you have much to learn
sometimes asking doesnt hurt you mite find out some thing useful
^ Agreed! It seems some people don't like listening or appreciate other peoples help sometimes.
I wonder why I bother at times...
Not exactly intended towards Chriskoss.
Hahah funny that, I never knew about wreckers doing that sort of stuff!
Thanks all for the lesson and helpful info!
It's not so much the rpm over 100kmh, but that the engine is producimg a sustained power output above Xkw to maintain 100+kmh (i.e. the power required to overcome the aerodynamic drag above 100kmh, mostly). To produce X power will generate Y heat as a 'waste' product (i.e. less power would = less heat, which a marginal cooling system may be able to cope with). If the cooling system is marginal it may have trouble getting rid of this much heat regardless of the rate of airflow passing through the rad core.Quote:
Originally Posted by Chriskoss
In urban driving the engine will also at times be producing more than Xkw but this may not cause overheating because it will only ever be in short bursts, so the heat produced when producing this power will not deposit enough heat into the obviously marginal cooling system to cause a noticable problem.
I'd be placing my money on the radiator being on it's last legs. My advice is to pull the rad out and have a good long look at the core fins, looking for 'fin rot' (or if you're lucky, merely being externally blocked with debris, which will impede airflow and thus heat transfer). While the rad is out reverse flush it with a hose, noting how easily the water passes through it. Better still, have a competant mechanic have a look at it.
When the engine is cold you won't be able to see any coolant flow through the radiator because the thermostat will prevent it until the engine is up to temperature.Quote:
Originally Posted by Chriskoss
To look for coolant flow in the rad, take the cap off when the system is cold, then start the engine and allow it to idle up to temperature while monitoring flow at the filler orifice. Don't take the cap off a hot cooling system...
Also common is 'fin rot', where the copper fins (the fins are what actually dissipate the vast majority of the heat) oxidise over time (accelerated by heat and moisture) and become ineffective. Often the paint acts as a membrane that holds the copper oxide in it's original fin shape, making it look as if the fins are OK, but if you touch them they crumble.Quote:
Originally Posted by teh_mechanic
The fans aren't really dangerous because they are only light plastic blades driven by relatively weak electric motors. In the old days when fans had large / sharp edged stamped metal blades driven directly from the crankshaft they were very dangerous, and could do real damage. Still, be cautious of the electric fans because they could cause minor injury, but not terrified...Quote:
Originally Posted by teh_mechanic