ah k, my bad. i assumed b18c wld be around the $2.5k - $3k mark.. didnt kno they can be had for only that much
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ah k, my bad. i assumed b18c wld be around the $2.5k - $3k mark.. didnt kno they can be had for only that much
yeah a bottom block is about $500 or so
B20 Kit about $300
SO if you do all the work could be had for less than $1k
if he is asking this q's i highly doubt he can do the labour himselfQuote:
Originally Posted by Limbo
and tuning cost too
have you thought about turbo?
wow complete b18c for 800-1000 bux? were? ill start to question the condition at those prices...
LSVTEC then.... with B16a pistons, that would be torquey
yerr ls/vtec..
b18b block 100-300buxs
ls/vtec kit 200-300buxs
use your b16a head, cams, gears, valves blahblahblahb
use your box aswell add lsd
big tube headers 800-1k
and your set
to the OP: i presume this is your daily driver?
back wen i had a DA9 i was kicking around the idea of LSVTEC. i didnt go thru with it becos there were numerous concerns i had:
- the rod to stroke ratio on a b18a/b block is not suitable for the revv's that a b16a head can reach
- no oil squirters on b18a/b blocks
i dont kno much about the oil squirters, but its something along the lines of the b18c block has an upward facing nozzle under each piston that sprays oil onto the underside of the piston. it assits with keeping the piston cool or something like that..
Rod Stroke ratio is for a B20/LSVTEC is 1.54:1 , a B18C is 1.58:1 there isnt that great of a difference.... again people are fed poo by the internet... tell me this.... how come no one ever talks about the K24 Engine and how shit the rod/stroke ratio is?... because they have the same 1.54:1
what do u mean by the Revs a B16a head can reach lol?
Run a PCV breather system your frank conversion will be fine.
I think the BYP B20 have shown how reliable/quick a Frank engine can be
LS/Vtec are a sweet engine make nice torque and are very cheap to buy and as Zeforce has listed you can use any of the B16a/B18c style pistons
Rough Comp Ratio's
PR3 Piston in 81mm has 11.9 to 1
P73 JDM Piston in 81mm has 12.2 to 1 these will give you the best quench
P30 JDM Piston in 81mm has 12.2 to 1
P72 Piston in 81mm has 10.5
All you need is a set of ARP rod bolts the B20/LS/Vtec conversion kit just use a B18B as most of the B18a engines will need a bore which adds to the cost
and the pistons listed you can land from an Ebay seller for around $200-240aud.Gsi-Psi Zeforce are all on the right track dont listen to most of the crap on the net
about oil squirters and rod/stroke ratio keep revs to around 8200-8400 and you will have an engine that gives you alot of fun and lives
I think there is a little more than just a quick slap together than most of you are mentioning.
There is a lack of a few things from a quick browse of the thread, a tune, a chipped ecu, new clutch, machining work, head servicing if need be, gasket kit, fluids, misc work for install, breather setup, etc
What is with the internet nowdays and talk of rod ratios? I always see this come up. Yes it matters, are we circuit racing? no, is it going to make much of a difference if you drive like you should and maintain your car? no. When your building a motor with high goals for power, then come talk about rod ratio's and its effect on engine longevity and power.
Piston squirters - I dont run them, I don't see a point unless the car is seeing extended RPM's for a long time. Even then, in a motor with that purpose, it will have forged pistons which can handle the heat and abuses of such work.
I think best option is find a B18 and rebuild the bottom to freshen it up.
In my opinion it's hardly worth the hassle. If you want power when you're lugging around passengers it's probably best to just upgrade to either 6 or 8 cylinders.
The most fun in your car is probably had with just yourself or one passenger anyway, right?