Buddyclub Spec III+ CAMS in a B16A.

If you don't get it with headwork, change the final drive - you'll have a ball.

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Originally Posted by beeza

Headwork isn't a must is it? That's what the OP wants to know.

Can he reach his goals of 105-110kw's without the headwork or should he do the headwork anyways?

:)

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Mate, you got it in one :)

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Originally Posted by fatboyz39

Leave the retainers OEM. They can handle 9000rpm.

Upgrade the springs. You power goals will be achieve easily.

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Thanks.

So you would agree that head work won't be necessary?

I can simply drop in the cams + springs and be done with it.

Might also upgrade the intake manifold and throttle body.

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Originally Posted by Chr1s

If you don't get it with headwork, change the final drive - you'll have a ball.

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Sweet.. As i'm running a 4.9FD.

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Originally Posted by DD2

Mate, you got it in one :)

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Thanks mate,I got a knack for that sorta thing ;)

I remember being told,'think of the final drive as a torque multiplier' :thumbsup:

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Originally Posted by DD2

Thanks.

So you would agree that head work won't be necessary?

I can simply drop in the cams + springs and be done with it.

Might also upgrade the intake manifold and throttle body.

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What kind of headwork? A good service and valve job should do the job just fine.

Bigger t/b and intake manifold will help.

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Originally Posted by fatboyz39

What kind of headwork? A good service and valve job should do the job just fine.

Bigger t/b and intake manifold will help.

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Any kind I guess, unless it was going to make a day & night difference with performance.

Based on what i've discovered these cams should yield some noticeable gains and still remain fairly reliable and close to stock driveability. They're only slightly more agressive than CTR.

My plan now is to install the cams with the springs, some adjustable cam gears, an ITR intake manifold & throttle body and then tune.

My goal of 105-110kw peak with more midrange, the 4.9FD and in the light EG shell...... should be happy days.

Well here's hoping anyway :)

Similar setup when we had b16a. Fun car to drive with the b16a. Dont be scare to rev it. We had it turned over 9200rpm with standard rods.

I don't think you'll need a new TB or IM, they will breathe fine if you give them a hard clean with some Suburu engine cleaner, will breathe like a new car.

As for head work it's not necessary but I think the whole idea lots of people have is that if you're going inside the head you may as well do everything at once. Especially if you're going to mod it again, because you may as well get it tune'd once it's all done inside, rather than going piece by piece.

- Clean
- Valves
- Valve springs
- Retainers
- Cam shafts
- Cam gears
- ? Port job

Wish you the best with this project mate. Show us how it comes out :)

Hmm.. I just googled the Subaru engine cleaner... looks interesting. Where would one buy such a thing?

In terms of the headwork, I’m thinking the head won't need to come off if I’m just replacing the cams & springs. With the right tools they can be installed as is from what I understand. Should be relatively cheap labour wise (I hope).

I'm still gathering parts, so will be a short while before I have them installed.

But I’ll be sure to post my results.

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Originally Posted by fatboyz39

Similar setup when we had b16a. Fun car to drive with the b16a. Dont be scare to rev it. We had it turned over 9200rpm with standard rods.

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9200rpm.. WOW.. would have loved to hear that.

From memory the factory B16A ECU will cut out at 8700.

What's normally the easiest way to increase this?

Would a stock ITR ECU slot right in?

if your going to do all that work \\you should buy a tuneable ecu