Printable View
Do not use injector cleaner! Just put in a full tank of 98 RON and see if it stops the vibration. If it does, then it is most likely a fuel issue with the 91 RON that you are using and I'd advise to try another petrol station.Quote:
Originally Posted by noel
A full tank of 98 RON is cheaper than a full tank of 95 RON and a bottle of injector cleaner.
I think he already did it.
HI All
Yes, the injector cleaner has been added. Reason: Cleaner should go in before filling tank, and I like to top-up from about half-full. It's an old practice from the days when petrol wasn't available 24/7 and the car may have been needed for an out of hours trip.
My EL Falcon suffered from cold stumble from new (in a 35 grand car, yet) but improved after a bottle of cleaner. The later Avalon loved a bottle after each oil change.
However, I can see where you're coming from; I should have given it more thought before bunging in the injector cleaner.
CHEERS
NOEL
Hi Again, All
Well, the car has had two tanks of 98, with more power, but almost no improvement in the vibration stakes.
An independent Honda specialist drove the car and said "it's not right". You should have heard the racket when he ran the motor at 3,000rpm with the air on and transmission in neutral.
On a bad day, the vibration comes in at 2,500 revs and is heavy at 3,000, Mainly in the lower gears. The vibration remains if the throttle is closed and the revs run back, or as it swaps cogs. It can be felt through the passenger-side floor.
Honda customer "care" does a lovely piece of duck-shoving. You'd know the line -"go back to your dealer, he's the expert". They say there's an independent guru in the area, but how is he/she accessed?
BTW, the other problem with my car - a fault in the paintwork - was referred to our local dealer, who took pix and sent off their quote to Honda. That was on 15 December, but as yet, there's been no word on whether they'll honour the warranty claim - seven weeks later. I'd hate to have the car off the road, waiting for a new motor, or whatever!
CHEERS
NOEL
legal advice ? You've got an independent Honda specialist to back you up and evidence; threaten them
Greetings
A funny thing happened on the way to the forum. Yesterday I sought the views of a second Honda dealer - and history repeated itself.
When I first went to a dealer - and there was very little vibration - I'd checked the tyre pressures, restoring them from 32 to 34psi. Prior to yesterday's visit, I'd done the tyres and you guessed it, there was little vibration. I didn't tumble to the coincidence until yesterday.
But wait, there's more. Yesterday's dealer is 40 k's away, and halfway home, the vibration came back, but not as bad as before. So, could there be a link between cold tyres at 34psi, with minimal vibration, then warming up and still ok, but further driving and increased pressure bringing our old enemy back?
The tryes are Dunlop Sport 300's.
The weather also comes into the picture. Today was hot, steamy and very overcast; the car was even smoother than yesterday morning.
The upshot is that the latest dealer was only too happy to look at the car in coming days, so perhaps a session on his hoist and a test drive, will help.
Let you know how it pans out.
CHEERS
NOEL
HI Again, All
An update on my previous: The Maitland dealer's "head technician" drove the car and ran a computer check, only to pronounce it ok; no vibration, yet it did the usual vibration thingo, between 2,500 and 3,000rpm, on the way out there and coming home. The strange thing is that no dealer has actually put the bloody car on a hoist to check for possible causes of the vibration.
So, to date, two Honda bods say no vibration and one private Honda specialist says there is inappropriate vibration. As they say in the Armed Forces, "Beats the s**t outa me, Lieutenant!"
Today, I've found that if the pedal is pressed enough to get the car rolling, then increased further, then further still, in small doses, it will pass through 2.5 and 3,000rpm with minimal vibration. In other words, push the pedal a little, then wait for the motor to rev up, before doing that all over again.
One option is to make it change before 2,500; we all know it's an auto box, right? And for sure, we all know how hard it is to stop these motors revving a little.
The car hit 5,000 kilometres today, so perhaps things will improve when it's fully run in?
CHEERS
NOEL
Just a quick update - I threw a tizz at the need to have the car off the road, because faulty paintwork got right through the system without being picked-up, and wrote to Honda Japan about it.
And, guess what - they duck-shoved it back to Oz, saying that Honda Australia was responsible for handling such issues; however, they regretted that I had had to write to the firm re issues. Yeah, right, having worked in PR for a lotta years, I know that line only too well.
Their letter was dated 22 March and so far, there's been no response from the local guys. Time will tell. Meantime, the vibration persists, but has lessened after a couple of tanks of E10 95. The car has done 6,000k's and is due for its first 10,000k/12month service this month. Perhaps, as I'm paying for it, they'll put it on a hoist and look for rub marks from the dreaded vibration. Receently, whilst backing out of our carport, up a hill, I'd swear there was bottom-end rumble.
CHEERS
NOEL
I also have a vibration around 3000 RPM, although mine suonds like a screw's loose.
No seat covers - however u can do a fabric change if you're hardcore.
The speedo always reads a bit high, so that you can't ever file a lawsuit against honda for giving dodgy speedo readings (and getting too many fines)
Greetings, All
The saga is nearing an end. As previously mentioned, I fired off a missive to Japan, and a copy to Honda OZ, all of which ended up with a local dealer.
It's been said that Japan was displeased and got on the horn to Thailand (for letting faulty paintwork through), and OZ, who let the local guy know I was coming in for a service and to go for a test ride with me. And, of course, today the vibration was almost non-existent (that bloody "dealer sensor", as my brother calls it), so nothing could be done. They did a good job with the service.
However, I'm finding that the vibration is now down to an acceptable level because, I reckon, the motor is loosening up and it's been run on E10 for about 1,000k's.
I find E10 is less powerful than 98, so I'll go back to filling from half a tank, E10 one time and 98 the next and see how that goes.
Many thanks for your input on this issue.
CHEERS
NOEL
FINAL UPDATE (fingers crossed) Following its first 10,000k service (at 6,400 k's) the vibration is now almost non-existent, so it seems that it was a case of running-in that did the trick. The dealer also did a thorough check during the service, so could have found something they didn't tell me. Perhaps, too, going to a regular grade of oil, from the 5-30 original, played its part.
BTW, I've recently sourced an under-bonnet sound insulation pad and fitted it; nice result, unless you like to hear the sound of VTEC woriking.