distributor gone?

sure does sound like your dizzy to me. exact same thing happened to me with my crx. wud start fine but then wud randomly die and not start again. makes sense if your getting no sparks as well. just get a mate or find someone you could borrow there dizzy just to trouble shoot.

That sounds exactly like the ICM - Ignition control Module.They are about $60 and it sits in the dizzy.

thanks for everyones help, really appreciate it.

beeza, was that to me about the ICM?

I took the Dizzy cap off, to test the coil + and -'s ... but annoyingly, cant work out how to loosen / take off the rotor button. according to the service manual, there is a bolt at the bottom pointing upwards, that holds the rotor button in (it definitely feels like something is, as i tried to coax it off otherwise). Any ideas how to remove it? I have to take it out, then the leak cover, to get to those terminals on the coil.

From there there is a couple of things I was going to try (spoke to a family friend who works at RACQ): check 12V is at the + of the + terminal on the coil, check that the -ve terminal is pulsing voltage like an AC signal (when cranking the engine), and then as the s.manual says check the resistances across the + and -, and then the secondary winding and they should be within a certain range.

One thing I did check was that the rotor was actually turning, just in case it could have been a disastrous timing belt issue (tho that was changed only 2 years ago). Can never be too sure.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by MRK20CRX

Don't use second hand dizzy, always best to get brand new, if you have problems with a second hand one, you'll be back to square one, so u can perfect the timing to spec, if I could hear the noise, and if it's similar to the problem that I had, it would definitely be the dizzy, how many kms are on the car

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I agree, a new Dizzy. That's wat i ended up doing also. After messing around with things a new distributor is the way to go. Ebay US has the cheapest and best i've seen.
Distributor king, is where i got mine from also.:thumbsup:

I changed ECU, leads, coil, ignitor, main relay and in the end i just gave up and got a new DIzzy and everything fixed itself.

P.S i checked all the bits individually and they all were working, even the dizzy sensors. I beleive it was the bearing in the dizzy giving out

Anyone know how to get the damn rotor off? The service manual shows a bolt going into it from below, but I can't find a single thing - if I feel at the bottom of the rotor/leak cover all I can feel is wires, no bolt as such. Its driving me mad.... just cant work out how to take it off.

I got the screw holding on the rotor to show now... the only problem is, its SUPER tight. I've tried pretty hard to loosen it, but to no avail (and obviously I don't want to strip the head).

Any ideas how to loosen it? What about gently hitting the screwdriver with a mallet while its in the screw?

U should be able to 'crack it' with a tight fitting screwdriver.One that fits nice and snug in there.It does do up real tight sometimes.

I was talking to Jon about the ICM drew.I dont think your problem is the ICM but it could well be aswell.

Came across this website....

http://techauto.awardspace.com/index.html

Exellent..... I just pulled out my main relay and am going to give it a shot tomorrow...... Lets hope it works. This site should be able to help you.

Great find! I did think of that,damn.

http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthr...n+relay+repair

Ok things have gone from not so bad to much worse.... tried taking the bolt off, and even got an Uncle who works at RACQ's expert help - the bolt head has wasted away enough that it wont grip to loosen. It isnt really THAT wasted, but its worn and being on so super tight (why do they need to make it SO tight), there is no chance of removing the bolt. Uncle even used a special snap on tools screwdriver made just for worn head screws, as well as this other one which had extra fins and is meant to be able to grip, but no luck.

My thought was to break the rotor button, then the screw will come out without a problem and then I can check everything. But, rotor button has to be ordered from Japan ($60) which will take 6 WEEKS!!!! (I didnt actually break it btw).

Any innovative ideas I can try? maybe somehow cut a wide flat head thread into the screw (wider then the original) and then just a flat head... ?

Any ideas?

Need a pic,but it does sound like snappage is in order.Stupid screw!!

But U will be able to get a rotor off here and have it by friday surely!!

Ok great news... got the screw out somehow (minor miracle.. it was so tight it wasnt funny) and took the rotor off. BUT, I checked the ignition coil (checking for resistance as per the service manual).... resistance between A and B should be 0.6-0.8, mine was 0.9.... between secondary winding and +ve should be 12.9-19.8, mine was about 11.3. So pretty close to the set figures... could it be the coil? what sort of tolerance is there for those set figures?

Also tried checking the ICM... as the s/manual said for battery voltage at a couple of points, most that I could check did have it.

Any ideas? thanks for everyone's help.