What mods to start with, CL9

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Originally Posted by integral90

Yeah, the car comes stock with both front and rear anti-swaybars. But by changing to a bigger, thicker rear one the car is much better to drive. The stock rear I measured to be just shy of 13mm - while the generic aftermarket thickness is 18mm, or you can run an even thicker one (like I am) @ 22mm.

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Can you recommend any good brands ?

Or doesn't really matter ...

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Originally Posted by elitee

Can you recommend any good brands ?

Or doesn't really matter ...

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Mine's a Comptech (now known as CT-Engineering or something) and is the only 22mm RSB I know of. There's also Whiteline and Neuspeed. I'd check Heel'n'Toe to see what brands they list

Quote:

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Originally Posted by integral90

Mine's a Comptech (now known as CT-Engineering or something) and is the only 22mm RSB I know of. There's also Whiteline and Neuspeed. I'd check Heel'n'Toe to see what brands they list

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Yeah i was looking at the comptech one on heal n toe, Will properly purchase it !

Quote:

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Originally Posted by integral90

Yeah, the car comes stock with both front and rear anti-swaybars. But by changing to a bigger, thicker rear one the car is much better to drive. The stock rear I measured to be just shy of 13mm - while the generic aftermarket thickness is 18mm, or you can run an even thicker one (like I am) @ 22mm.

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22mm sounds good, but have you had any issues with ripping your end links or anything else out?

Whiteline is good for a RSB (rear sway bar). bang for your buck.
If you want JDM, try and source SWIFT RSB. Rarer, and $$$$ but its a solid sway bar, compared to whiteline which I think is hollow? Cant remember...Comptech (CT engineering or whatever theyre called now) made some good RSB's too...dunno if they still sell them?

Im assuming that you have a CUSCO FRONT strut bar and CUSCO LOWER ARM bar? Euros dont have REAR STRUT Bars.

Adding an intake will give you a growl every time you rev it at WOT (wide open throttle).....it will definately sound nice, but in terms of performance, prob next to none if you dont have complimenting mods, such as a 4-2-1 header, high flow cat and a catback exhaust........but even THEN, performance wont be that great.

fact to the matter is, to get power from the NA block costs a lot of $$$$ if you're doing normal NA mods to it. the gains wont be as much compared to the amount of money you'll be spending.

In my opinion, if you're happy with the looks of the car (exterior, i.e bodykit) and the stance (how it sits currently with the springs), then just get a rear sway bar first. Get the suspension right first before you look at power. You'll get more bang for your buck tryin to get the cars handling right than trying to extract power from the K24 engine.

See if you can try and find out what springs you have and if theyre currently on stock shock absorbers. Because if you just upgrade the springs and leave the shocks as OEM, the stock shocks wear out quicker. Thats why when people upgrade their suspension, they either go for a good spring/shock combo like for e.g koni adjustable shocks + eibach lowering springs. Or if they can afford coilovers, they go with something like TEINS.

But before ANY of this, work out your budget and how much you have to play with. That way, you have a better idea as to what mods are feasible and which mods arent.

And remember, modding is about doing things right the first time around. Thats what I believe anyway. So if you're on a budget, work out what that budget is and work out what mods you want on the car. If the mod you want is expensive, look for another good quality alternative but dont skimp on the quality of the mod. For e.g, if you want, say, a fujitsubo catback exhaust, then save up for it and get it once, rather than buying a cheap alternative and buying the real thing later. u waste more money that way.

my 2c

Quote:

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Originally Posted by SL8512

Whiteline is good for a RSB (rear sway bar). bang for your buck.
If you want JDM, try and source SWIFT RSB. Rarer, and $$$$ but its a solid sway bar, compared to whiteline which I think is hollow? Cant remember...Comptech (CT engineering or whatever theyre called now) made some good RSB's too...dunno if they still sell them?

Im assuming that you have a CUSCO FRONT strut bar and CUSCO LOWER ARM bar? Euros dont have REAR STRUT Bars.

Adding an intake will give you a growl every time you rev it at WOT (wide open throttle).....it will definately sound nice, but in terms of performance, prob next to none if you dont have complimenting mods, such as a 4-2-1 header, high flow cat and a catback exhaust........but even THEN, performance wont be that great.

fact to the matter is, to get power from the NA block costs a lot of $$$$ if you're doing normal NA mods to it. the gains wont be as much compared to the amount of money you'll be spending.

In my opinion, if you're happy with the looks of the car (exterior, i.e bodykit) and the stance (how it sits currently with the springs), then just get a rear sway bar first. Get the suspension right first before you look at power. You'll get more bang for your buck tryin to get the cars handling right than trying to extract power from the K24 engine.

See if you can try and find out what springs you have and if theyre currently on stock shock absorbers. Because if you just upgrade the springs and leave the shocks as OEM, the stock shocks wear out quicker. Thats why when people upgrade their suspension, they either go for a good spring/shock combo like for e.g koni adjustable shocks + eibach lowering springs. Or if they can afford coilovers, they go with something like TEINS.

But before ANY of this, work out your budget and how much you have to play with. That way, you have a better idea as to what mods are feasible and which mods arent.

And remember, modding is about doing things right the first time around. Thats what I believe anyway. So if you're on a budget, work out what that budget is and work out what mods you want on the car. If the mod you want is expensive, look for another good quality alternative but dont skimp on the quality of the mod. For e.g, if you want, say, a fujitsubo catback exhaust, then save up for it and get it once, rather than buying a cheap alternative and buying the real thing later. u waste more money that way.

my 2c

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strongly agree, sounds like you hv got a bit of handling mod, one of the best mod to start will prob b a mp3/bluethooth headunit