Do you REALLY have to strip out the radio to change the fuel filter?

Hi Philip. Hope this bit of info is not too late for you.

I replaced my '05 Jazz filter at 115,000 km last October. Yes it was fiddly but I won't have to do it for another 100,000 km.
I was advised by a competent mechanic to leave it alone if my Jazz was not playing up (which it wasn't).
But the hypochondriac in me decided to go ahead with it. Yes it's located under the plastic consul very close
to the handbrake. Removing the front passenger seat (4 bolts only) makes removing the consul easier.
Make sure you disconnect battery (or remove fuse) and release the fuel tank pressure first !!
Silly me... when I disconnected the fuel hose... the petrol kept coming and I kept mopping ...
until it dawn on me about releasing the pressure in the fuel tank by undoing the fuel cap.
Sourcing the fuel tank cover removing tool was expansive and difficult, instead I used 2 large
and long screw drivers to leverage it off. An extra pair of hands to remove the cover certainly helps.
With your approach, do be careful with tapping the cover off in case you damage it.
Worth your while to take photos before you dismantle the fuel filter & pump assembly.
Having said that, I did not have a camera handy on that day - I wasted an hour figuring
how to reassemble the lot ! :(
Oh, the whole contraption is spring loaded. When I tried to put it back the assembly
was standing 50mm higher above the cover. Drrrr.. Just push it down carefully and tighten
the cover over it. Reconnect hoses and double check everything's in place and cover is tight.

It took me 3 hours because I made mistakes plus it being the first time I was extra careful.
Next time it'd probably take only 1.5 hours.

Having said all of the above, I take no responsibility if you have any problems.
PM me if you need any assistance on this matter.
Good luck.

Thanks very much for that.
So I take it you did NOT have to remove the radio area, but just remove the console by popping out the plastic thingos at the front and whatever screws there are hidden around the place eg at the back.
Regards Philip A

You are correct. Definitely not the radio. When you remove the plastic consul (2 front screws,
2 at rear), unscrew the gear knob (for manual, for auto refer workshop manual for auto),
lift up the plastic consul (may have to put the gear lever in 1st or 4th gear to make removal easier),
disconnect the cigarette lighter wire and juggle the consul out. You'll see a panel with 3 or 4 screws.
Remove the the screws and panel and you'll see the black cover to the fuel filter.
Disconnect the wires and hose. (make sure you have some rags and have all your doors
open).

p/s I'm referring to a manual Jazz. With auto, once you've disconnected the battery,
you will have to reset the CVT (refer to forum postings for how to).

Good luck.

great stuff - doing this next week - where'd you get the filter assy from? Honda? or aftermarket?

I would think they would only be available from Honda.

Be Careful with the plastic grommets at the front sides of the console. The centres push in to remove them and they break if you think they are just pull out ones. Ask me how I know.
Regards Philip A

Thanks for the Info Jazcivic. I need to have a go at this soon, your post has given me the confidence to have a go. Will be doing the valve clearances in the next few weeks as well, as well as swapping a warped front disc..

Quote:

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Originally Posted by fundies

Thanks for the Info Jazcivic. I need to have a go at this soon, your post has given me the confidence to have a go. Will be doing the valve clearances in the next few weeks as well, as well as swapping a warped front disc..

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You're most welcome fundies. Give us a write up on how you did the tappets ?
I've yet to look at mine. I still have the same plugs after 119,000 kms. My disk pads
lasted 101,000 km before I replaced them with Bendix Ceramic ones ($72) !
The new pads have a better bite and pulls the car up better. I don't know the long term
effect on the disk by these Bendix Ceramics.
Any comments by other forumers who'se used the Bendix Ceramic pads ??
I love the engine. No timing belt to deal with every 100,000 kms. No oil leaks yet and still
running well. And so easy to maintain.
I did have the rear wheel bearing letting go at 85,000kms and Nordic Honda kindly replaced
both under warranty (my car was 3.5 years old then - wheel bearings were warrantied for 5 years).
They cost around $370 each !

Would be exciting if the latest Jazz i-Vtec engine could be slipped in to the 1st Gen Jazz chassis(GD2).

Happy and Safe Motoring to Everyone. :))

Hi

What was the condition of the filter , did you blow thru it was it blocked or restricted more than the new one , its just that a blocked filter makes the fuel pump work harder

I would have thought unless there is a pressure relief valve at the pump and this causes a lot of wear on the commutator of the motor , dropping a lot of copper fillings into the fuel filter

I had a badly worn commutator on one fuel pump on another car and it had worn about 3mm of copper off, the commutator, and dropped it in the fuel,system

Quote:

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Originally Posted by NX-687

Hi

What was the condition of the filter , did you blow thru it was it blocked or restricted more than the new one , its just that a blocked filter makes the fuel pump work harder

I would have thought unless there is a pressure relief valve at the pump and this causes a lot of wear on the commutator of the motor , dropping a lot of copper fillings into the fuel filter

I had a badly worn commutator on one fuel pump on another car and it had worn about 3mm of copper off, the commutator, and dropped it in the fuel,system

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Hi NX,
Sorry for the late response.I've been repairing my flooded home unit in Brisbane.
It's less fun than tinkering with the Jazz.

With an overworked fuel pump (due to blocked filter), second-hand replacement pump are expansive - over $100. (I had to replace the pump [my old '94 Accord] some years ago due to too many occasions letting the fuel tank run too low - I think). I think the damage was due to lack of cooling effect when the fuel level in the tank is extremely low.

The filter pad was not too dirty (having done 115,000 km).
I think the dirtiest part on my filter assembly was the filter pad located at the base of the assembly. This is the part that I swished around in petrol to get dirt out.
Then using compressed air to help clear more dirt from it. It seems to be the only part
that require thorough cleaning. Then reassemble and put everything back.

The replacement part I purchased from Honda, did not come with the filter pouch.
Knowing what I know now, I would have cleaned the old filter assembly plus extra effort
to thoroughly clean the filter pouch. Put the whole assembly back and call it job done.
(someone may have a different opinion about this, hope they can add to this tread).

Seems to me that the pouch is the part that does the primary filtration.
The replacement assembly is not required unless the original assembly is faulty.

I wonder if this filter pouch is available as a replacement part.

Good luck.

make sure EVERY o ring goes back the way it came out. theres one bit where i kept putting the oring in the hole first, then pushing the peice into it... you have to put the oring onto the peice then insert the lot into the hole.

4 times i pulled it all out and put it back together to find this out... took me forever, mongrel job!!!

Thanks for that 08ESE. Now that you mentioned it, I did have similar difficulty. It was frustrating
trying to get the o-ring in properly .. after doing it 3 times, it did dawn on me to try a different
approach like yours. Drrrr.. One of the reasons why it took me 3 hours !! I did not want
to break any item. Good one you point that out.

not sure if it was the best idea, but i just bought this one for 27 bucks:

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI....=STRK:MEWNX:IT

i will report back if it fits...