shouldnt push your luck buruk213... your doing exactly what the OP was told not to do. no offence just saying.
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shouldnt push your luck buruk213... your doing exactly what the OP was told not to do. no offence just saying.
I think you could too. So if we are thinking about the same place, you would understand that his reputation indicates he wouldn't be getting fake shit. Thats all that needs to be said. If you want to come out and say it, then that's your call. I've done the right thing by him and myself by keeping it anonymous.
At the end of the day the point of this thread was to give people a heads up. All this other talk is getting off topic. You want to talk about who sells fake shit and who doesn't then do it somewhere else. I'm just trying to help people out, as there are a million options for buying parts, so this sort of stuff helps. It wouldve helped me that's for sure.
what part of the exhaust had to be modified?
Could it be because the exhaust was made for jdm cat / de-cat etc. that it didn't fit up properly?
I think Matt is on the ball, im sure u cant fit a jdm
Catback onto audm headers without modification.
I waited until my toda header came in before installing
On my
Catback. There were no dramas at all and it bolted up perfect. Exhaust tip is perfectly under the bumper but not in to much :)
Well if that was the case then wouldnt the length of the exhaust be a problem? Because the tip came out at the right length, it was just the angle didnt line up with the cutout for the exhaust tip in the rear bumper. And the header was designed to be a bolt on replacement for oem jdm headers. Therefore id figure that a jdm catback such as j's racing should bolt straight up shouldnt it?
Either way, the I got the exhaust on eventually. Even if it was a bit of mucking around, im happy with the end result. It looks the goods and sounds great, which it what i was after. The point of this thread was just to try help people out. If anyone wants to ask me anything about it at all, just pm me.
Cheers.
Correct!
I've got a X-Force Catback system, i've been told that the exhaust will need to be cut back to make way for the TODA Headers.
AUDM and JDM Exhaust components don't work together sadly enough.. Custom work is needed.. My Cat is going to welded to my exhaust if i don't change to JDM
Nengun is not the distributor of J's Racing in Australia.
JDM Concept is the distributor and you confirm that on the J's Racing site.
When purchasing through the official distributor, you can be confident that the product is legitimate. If you have any concerns about the authenticity of the product, you can by all means then take it to the Japanese companies themselves.
J's Racing Japan has in the past taken legal action upon one of their distributors in Canada or USA for selling fake J's items . This can be googled for more info.
Regarding the fit of the their products. I bought a J's Racing 60RS Ti last year and had no problems at all fitting it on. It was paired to JDM DC2R cat and J's Racing header. Bear in mind this is for B18C.
Everything fits like OEM.
On the J's Racing website, it states that the C304 stainless steel catback systems are artificailly coloured by hand, which is why you don't get the natural gradation like the titanium burn.
As to why the catback needed to be modified, there could have been several reasons.
Sorry I meant that I contacted jdm concept. However I did contact nengun as well. When you bought your catback how long did it take to arrive? Because I read in another thread about a guy with an s2k who also experienced huge delays with js racing when buying a hardtop for his car.
The bluish purple discolouration does not appear if the conditions are not right. With welds, it tends to be a dull gray, which is nothing like how it looks like on the tip. In fact, 304 stainless steel tends to turn gold/brown instead when heated by heat from the cooler exhaust gases, which is why your welds look brown instead.
What type of welding did your exhaust shop use? Was it TIG or MIG? If it was, these two methods use a shielding gas (usually argon) so that there is no oxygen in the surrounding weld area. As a result, you don't get the bluish tinge which is chromium from the stainless steel reacting with oxygen to give chromium oxide.