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Yeh mate, that was the only issue with large 0 gauge. Was a little tight in some spots but still manageable. Also remember to run a separate Positive feed for your fuse box which links up with your alternator. Or you could piggy back the fusebox feed from the termination point on your starter motor.
Bump.
What are you bumping? What else do you need to know?
What battery to use, I've got no idea on what specs to look at other than cca
the standard battery. (go to the shop and ask for a battery that suits your vehicle)
be careful of fuse selection. When you turn that key, you're unloading full power to that starter via the fuse,.
depends how you do it, but if you just have the +ve running to the starter motor & leave all the existing wiring there, everything will work fine.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sexc86
From what I understand if the battery is mounted in the cabin or even in the boot it needs to be a dry cell so I cant use the standard battery.
Do as you like, it seems you already know what battery you need, no need to ask.
I've had boot relocation's and only ever used standard batteries.
I'm just clarifying the law. Let me know if I'm wrong but either way I'm not keen on breathing in any fumes coming out of a wet cell battery. Even mounted in a sealed box with a vent hose to outside I'd still rather a dry sell which as far as I can tell all odyssey batteries are. What I'd like to know is what odyssey battery to use
where abouts are you mounting in the boot?? I got the wire, now all i need is time and a box
Between strut brace and back seat. Less length on cable, less volt drop, and possibly better weight distribution too as opposed to further towards rear of car
oddessy pc680 is the best batt for its size
for a 5 second draw it will put out over 400 amps which you will never ever even come close to using, its just the nature of the agm dry cell, super high and fast current draw. this is why its hard to get cca ratings on them because they just dont behave like normal wet plate batteries.
4 guage is plenty big, dont know what everone else is saying, like you trying to start a truck motor or something. 4 guage cable is rated at like 120 amp continus draw so a 3 second start at like 60 amps at the most is a walk in the park.
as long as you use good quality cable you wont have any problems, audio power cable is pretty good just make sure its well protected in engine bay and from rubbing as the cable cover tends to be not as durable as proper battery cable.
the audio cable is also good cause they have a high strand count as you sparkys should know. the more strands, the more surface area, the more electrical current it can handle. its basic electrical theory. just the same case that 1.5mm flex is rated for the same amperage as standard 2.5mm twin and earth cause the flex has more strands and more surface area for the current to flow on.
also one good ground in the boot is more than enough, just make sure you sand down the area where the bolt is for best connection. as for ring termals easyest is standard gold plated audio terminals, just crimp them with proper battery lug crimper (not a hex crimper) or fold one side under the other with pliers or multigrips, then use a gas torch and add solder to the exposed cable on the ring side of the terminal, after that it will never come loose.
also dont forget to run the main power cable from the main battery point on the starter motor to the main fuse box in engine bay. for that 8 guage cable is fine.