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Hmm. Thanks for the input. Doubt I will get strut bars though. Don't see the point in them. Shall try find some mufflers around and also probably springs. I think coils are a little out of my budget though.
JDM does cost a little bit more but at least they are trustworthy. Shall look around in the forums first before deciding.
Cant explain it technically but only through experience.Quote:
Originally Posted by GU357
There might be someone here who can explain it though. I just know that once you put a catback it felt sluggish.
BC coilovers brand new $1150 @ JustJap. Perfect for street.Quote:
Originally Posted by kennethgqr
Bc coil over on 6 clicks are very comfortable on the streetsQuote:
Originally Posted by melvin
Modify your stock air box (cut out the bottom and route a cold air pipe to it) drop in K&N panel filter.
Remover axle back muffler and drive around like one of the other guys on the forum did
How do u not see the point in strut bars?
Big exhaust look stupid?
o.O
am i being trolled?
the exhaust maybe but i mean nothing more then a 3inch.
and ppl say that if u put a larger exhaust on it feels like less torque, its a back pressure thing, and thats a myth anyway, its not like the jazz has carbies
haha i see the point in strut bars but not at this moment I guess? will consider it after the coils. Sorry if you misunderstood me haha.
Yeah I will probably go for something not more than 2 and a half inches.
the Xforce one then is a good start. the canon has a rather modest size tip.
http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/...110524_002.jpg
^ my Old Jazz when it had the muffler on.
u can get a megan one too, the tips arent large but there are 2 of them lol.
much more expensive though: about $400 by the time its here.
and strut bars make alot of difference driving the jazz above now without the struts feels different, like not as sturdy n tight.
maybe its in my head, but when they went on the car felt like a rock
with my exhaust driving in D feels pretty sluggish and especially when getting up to speed from 0 or on a hill.. it felt quicker with the stock exhaust so I guess that is a back pressure thing.. but I always drive on S now and it feels even faster than with the stock exhaust.. so yeh strange :/
ok - if you go bigger in diameter on the pipe from the CAT back, you are increasing the amount of air in the pipes that the engine needs to move when running. This has a quantifiable weight, and doing so will effect low down and in the extreme midrange power. THAT said, it will mean that the there is less restriction, so as the gases start to flow @ upper RPM, you'll gain a more effeceint engine, (effcientcy is how effective it is in turning air/fuel into power, not how little fuel it requires to go)
the trick is getting the right diameter for the flow charateristics of the perfomance and rev ranges you are looking for.
a trick i stumbled on a long time ago is called a venturi, this is petty old school tech, but worked really well in my old SR20 Pulsar. wiki it. But basically, take off the nozzle on your hose @ home, and turn it on. pretty pathetic flow yeah? hold your finger so it cover 1/2 the hose. Water's flowing faster now yeah? that's the venturi effect.
anyway, we ran a 2.25inch cat back exhaust on the pulsat. Just before the cat on the engine side, there was a maybe 10-15mm bit of 1.75inch stock exhuast, that wasn't worth the effort changing. we found that we gained an amount of low-midrange torque over a simular car that had had this little bit of pipe removed when they replaced it's cat.
Infact, the same car later had custom extractors installed and a highflow cat, and my car still managed to get a good 1/2 car length on it @ lights. Dyno'd hos car was making nearly 20kw more than mine, but my torque band was fatter and more usable. he managed to pull in in eventually, but he was always annoyed @ how fast my car was since i'd spent 1/10 the money hed had on his exhaust and CAI setup, (full carbon fibre, and custom tuned length headers, as apposed to stock headers, and a 90degree bend, a pod filter and some silicon hose)
anyway, sorry if that was off topic
AND to SDX, what i'm basically trying to say is, changing you're exhuast completely will push you torque up the rev range. hence it feels like you're "Missing power". it's not missing, it's just moved. In D in the CVT auto, the car will hold an RPM and the gearbox can "infinately" change gear ratio's as the car excelerates. so if the RPM that the gearbox has been programed to has lost some torque, (as in, that band has moved up the ver range), then it will feel slugish
i dont need to explain how S mode works in this box do i?
Hope this explains how you can "lose torque"
BTW, i've just had shipped a set of Ultra racing upper front strut and front fender braces. once i get them, and have time to fit them, i'll let you just how much of a differnce they make :)
OH, and if you ARE going to get a set of springs, PM me
Rotel ur partially right about the air being needing to move and that exhaust diameter is related to desired rev range, but.
The reason u want a thinner exhaust at Low Revs is so the exhaust travels fast enough to create a low pressure drag behind the exhaust pulse.
if u dont have that drag then the engine doesnt really want to rev at that speed (or turn over at all).
I dont think it moves the power range but rather emphasizes and magnifies it in certain ranges.
but all things being equal means you lose it down low or up high.
If u have a high reving engine ie Rotary, then u want a big pipe because u dont want the pipe to be constrictive of the exhaust gas that can be output, so ur pumping more exhaust so u will need a bigger pipe to maintain the same flow rate.
When tuning an exhaust you aim for volumetric efficiency, and 0 back pressure.
the width of the exhaust must be suited for the peak RPM's where you have peak HP but also where you still have torque.
to attain no backpressure u want a straight pipe with no bends or constrictions (ie CATs) thats why u get HFC's n that.
*another good trick to make exhaust move from ur headers is too wrap it in heat wrap! because hot gasses move faster.
-the whole back pressure thing is a misconception because someone that that by putting a big exhaust on his car he wouldhave less backpressure then he drives it n is like this sucks, no backpressure = no torque, rather then saying wider is not better (in this case).
anyway if u turbo the car all exhaust components past the wastegate are useless lol so rotel shouldnt need to worry because after the exhaust is past the turbo it doesnt need to create the low pressure behind the pulse because the engines being fed air like crazy lol, so its home free for the exhaust afterwards.
hope this helps clear it up.
and SDX91 the loss of torque in D is probably more to do with the fact the throttle is less responsive in that mode, so its not gonna open up as much, especially if ur used to driving in S