Sump Gasket Problems...

hey adrian, thanks for your input. :)

thats the manual/instructions I followed last time, the order of tightening was fine but it was the 12NM amount of torque that distorted the gasket. :S

hmmm carby cleaner or brake cleaner, thats good as I have both here at home! I'll make sure it's extra clean.

oh well I think a little bit of sealant wouldn't hurt it, would it? this stuff is a gasket bonder/maker so it becomes very rubbery when dried properly and is sensor safe. I was thinking if I let it vulcanize under just enough torque to pinch it in place, then it wouldn't distort out as much when I do the final tweak?

although my idea is just a theory so if you really think it's a bad idea I guess I'll go without sealant and see what happens.

ahh man I'm not too sure now :S

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Benson

Are you sure its still leaking from the sump? I had a similar problem happen to me before on my old motor and it turn out to be slight crack in the block (where the oil runs close to the alternator)

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Yeah man definitely the sump, I checked for cracks when I cleaned the bottom of the block last time.

a friend of mine recommended that I use a low-strength threadlocker on the bolts so they don't loosen up while driving as they are a low torque application. apparently the bolts loosening off just the tiniest bit caused a similar problem for him. anyone know if this is a bad idea?

so I pulled the sump off tonight, and whaddaya know it was warped. don't know how I didn't see it last time, but it is warped around most of the bolt holes which had caused the gasket to break in three places! that would be why I am going through gaskets so quickly.

will be calling up JDM Yard to order a new sump, and will hopefully receive it on friday.

this time I won't be using sealant, as adrian suggested, I will just clean the hell out of the blocks surface for the new gasket and pan.

would still appreciate some advice on using very mild threadlocker on the bolts to eliminate the possibility of them coming even a bit loose under the low torque.

I personally can't see what would be bad about using it as it is only a low strength under a low torque, but it would make me more confident in using or not using it with some advice.

thanks everyone you've all been a great help so far in solving this annoying issue. :)

Imo a thread locker would be beneficial.

Glad you found the culprit, but sorry it's the more expensive option.

Didn't you also have a stuffed main relay last time?

You can use thread locker if you like but there's no requirement for it, just super clean & correct torque.
Good to hear you found the issue.

sealer is good if you know the correct amount to apply.

yeah I'm relieved I found out what it was. and yeah about a year ago I had an issue with a main relay dougie.

ok cool i think i will put a tiny bit of threadlocker on the bolts if it can't hurt. would like to be extra safe this time, getting pretty tired of removing the oil pan haha

I would put on 4 small dots. 2 where the oil pump meets the block and 2 where the clutch housing meet the block, then smear it.

I also apply a thin bead around the whole gasket, pretty much as thin as humanly possible.

Cleaned all surfaces with acetone.

Can't remember sealer brand I used, but it's very common in our auto shops, it said for high temp oil seal.

I've only done one on a Honda, but its been perfect.

thanks bludger :)

yeah I had read some threads on honda-tech about just putting dots in 2 or 4 places, but that was on a civic D-series which has a different sump. what honda did you change the gasket on?

b18c.