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He has clearly stated that he has purchased an active subwoofer with inbuilt amp, if he had more than 1 it would of said a pair or set of subwoofers. Even if the amp is 2ch it should be run bridged thus still only needing 1 rca input
why would u pay for an Active sub/amp combo and pay for 1 subs seperately or if it did come with 2 subs? - this is just wrong. - hence why they call it a Active Sub/Amp combo priced as a total package.
Never seen an Active sub using a 2xchannel AMP to run 1 sub. - this is just plain stupid for the manufacturers to even promote to sell. - they will loose money as its not profitable.
Yet again - all this can change if the store has decided to "modifiy" the combo to customer specific requirements. :) :thumbsup:
you will still need to hook up both L/R RCA's to be in bridge mode. or else only half of the signal/ output voltage power will be experienced. - I.E 5V preout will be half to 2.5V.Quote:
Even if the amp is 2ch it should be run bridged thus still only needing 1 rca input
was meant to say pair not paid, have edited.
If you refer back to my last post i was trying to point out the he said he got "an active subwoofer" not a pair or set of subs which would imply more than 1 woofer.
Its quite common to use a 2 ch amp to power a sub and run it in bridge.
In my experience you only need to use 1 rca for bridging 2ch together, i currently have a eclipse PA5422 in my civic and it makes no difference weather i hook up both or only left, if you were correct i would have to basicly half my gain if i plugged in the second one, which is not the case, have also installed some kicker and apline amps with the same effect. If you could give an example of a car amp(2 ch in bridge or 4 ch running 1 side bridge) that does require both inputs i would be interested as ive never seen that.
My home sub also works the same, has 2 inputs but if i use a y splitter it has no difference to just using the white/L input.
It seems like this thread has turned into a mess of debates, I have read through it all and each post has contributed to my understanding on car audio.
Also to clear things up i added a link to the active subwoofer i purchased.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/BLITZ-AUD...item1c206dfdae
Thanks for the help guys !
Sorry for the mess in your thread but if i see someone giving incorrect info ill call them on it.
Thanks for posting up the active sub, confirms that i was correct that its a single sub using a 2 channel amp, unless its been setup to run a channel to each coil then you will only need the 1 sub output from the headunit connected to the white/L channel of the amp. no need for y splitter.
If it has been setup to use a channel each coil then you would need a y splitter but i have never seen this done and it would be illogical of manufactures to run it in stereo when your using a mono/non fader input. Would explain why but i think there has been enough in this thread.
To answer your original questions,
Yes the sub and headunit will be compatible
You will be able to use the stock speakers and power them by the headunits internal amp
Taken from http://www.crutchfield.com/S-AZcrmDN...fo#details-tab
"Steering Wheel Remote Compatibility: The headunit features an OEM steering wheel remote control input on the rear of the unit to allow you to keep your vehicle's radio steering wheel remote controls when used with the optional PAC SWI-PS Steering Wheel Control Interface Adapter (127SWIPS, sold separately); or the optional Metra ASWC Steering Wheel Control Interface Adapter (120ASWC, sold separately)."
Search those model numbers to see if your car is compatable
Havent installed a stereo in an fd2 so i dont know how the aux is set-up so i dont know if you can or cant reuse aux port sorry.
Hope that helps.
Honestly, I would just put both on there.. as the other dude said, it'd half the voltage output from the headunit if you only put one on.. and the chance of it being one channel per coil is pretty high... I'd just not risk it and put a Y splitter.. it's only like 5 dollars extra.. Not really that big a deal is it? just y split at the back of the headunit (pretty messy, but you don't have speaker amp yet, so it should be fine) and then normal rca out from there.
I'm more of a 'why not spend the extra dosh if it'll make it sound better, or reduce the chance of it sounding like ass' or something along those lines.
Better to have spent the extra money on the y splitters than to have not and been disappointed with it... Imo, i would do it anyway.
Good thinking bud - an easy fix for guarantee that your expandables are kept to working order and warranty retained. (not voided).
u can try it out and see if there are any difference in the sound/quality/power/distortion.
would be nice to see if there was actual differences of just having 1 RCA compared to 2 RCA splitted into Y.
let us know how u go bud.
P.S - make sure you got a good ground for your amp - seeing that your going to install this under your seat?
Enjoy pumpin the bass!! -
I would like to know how its halving the voltage? The Hu in question only has 1 output so if your splitting that your not doubling your voltage. the amp will still be recieving the rated output weather its recieving a single or split rca.
Why do you think the chance would be high that its got a channel going to each coil? It would present problems if your running a set of rca's(L and R) because when you have low end playing on 1 channel and not the other you will only be driving one of the coils where as if you have it bridged it will run both. Setting it up in bridge makes it more flexable interms of how its used so i dont know why they wouldnt do it.
I know its not much but i didnt see the point in buying one if its not nessicary. now that the sub model has been posted up ive had a bit of a search(BZ 100) and its not clear on weather its running in bridge or 2ch so he would either have to verify with the seller how its setup or buy a y splitter and test too see himself. Im quite sure it will be bridged tho.