gearing for 130kw integra vtir

truee at the expense of a couple thousand haha.. my job underpays me too :(
anyways thanks for your help

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Originally Posted by Jccck

As if, you haven't lived til you've done 250km/h+ on public roads.

Sure you'll have better acceleration with the shorter gears, but you have to factor in gear shifts too.
If you're shifting all the time, you're losing power/time each time you do.

You're better off having more power, so that more of your rev range is usable.

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please dont encourage ozhonda members to do this.
you fcukwit.

From what I remember type r with 4.7 final drive does

Just under or exactly 100 in 2nd
136-8kph in 3rd and about
I forgot 4th but it would be about 190ish

Have you driven a 4.7fd ?
Im never looking back man, it feels good. Especially if it was for city driving. Short ratios, fast pick up. Ive you have the money, get it. There is no way you're gonna be dissapointed.

Track application wise, the basis of gearing selection is to match it with your engine's power/torque band and the track. A technical track with lots of corners, lower average speed with an engine with a 'peaky' [Narrow] powerband would go for shorter ratio and more gears to select from usually at the cost of top end. Visa versa. Very general but gives you an idea.

Now there are problems such as having too short and too many gears meaning more time lost due to the amount of gear shifts made. Too long and/or too little gears [Think like older cars with the traditional 4spd Auto or older Australian/American cars] means that the car relies on its mid range torque to pull it through, troublesome if you don't have a big donk powering you along.

That's all well and good in absolute terms [Racing] but what about street?

It depends on what you personally have, want and can put up with. Shorter the ratio will keep your car on the boil as everyone has alluded yes, if you don't mind shifting more, having a car that's not relaxing to drive, higher rpm doing 100kph on the motorway/freeway therefore more noise etc etc. Factor that in too...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Jccck

As if, you haven't lived til you've done 250km/h+ on public roads.

Sure you'll have better acceleration with the shorter gears, but you have to factor in gear shifts too.
If you're shifting all the time, you're losing power/time each time you do.

You're better off having more power, so that more of your rev range is usable.

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please, tell us more about this feat of yours

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Originally Posted by curtis265

please, tell us more about this feat of yours

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+1...

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Originally Posted by curtis265

please, tell us more about this feat of yours

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You can look up the gear ratios/final drive/redline of an F22A9 w/ 5sp Gearbox.. On 215/40R17's.
It's impossible to do 250.
And no i didn't find that out from experience, i used math.. Lovely math.

I just thought it'd stir you kids up, you need a bit of excitement in your lives.. Haha.

But ontopic;
I know on a Dirtbike you can spend a few dollars and a bit of time dialing in your sprocket ratios to suit your riding style/locations.
But this would be a very very expensive and time consuming exercise for a car.
Perhaps you could calculate what RPM you will be at in various gears and various speeds.. And see if it 'sounds' better than your current setup?

Is it just me or is everyone missing the point here? Torque is what is required to improve daily driving, not power. The higher ratio is a torque multiplier so it can definitely help, however it may not be necessary.

The 130kw figure means nothing really. OP, how did you get to this power figure? What mods?

Sometimes a retune with a different set of headers will improve mid range torque and response

I'd rather just get the ITR 4.7FD + LSD box rather than go chasing 130kw.

But if you already have the power the 4.7 box will give you the best acceleration. Obviously the lower the FD the better for cruising at high speeds.

i actually do quite abit of highway driving but i guess the extra 500 rpm increase at highway speeds would be bearable for now haha
130kw was just a ball park figure, honestly cant remember why i used that in the first place..

At the moment my mind is more set on installing a ITR 4.4fd + LSD, using highways to whatever destination i need to go to puts me off the 4.7 Fd actually.

One more thing im curious about, in a dc2 vtir with i/h/e and the ITR gearbox, would tuning with a standalone ecu be required? or maybe a reflash would be sufficient? i was under the assumption that a change in gearing would decrease the performance of the car unless properly tuned, or is tuning only required and beneficial when internal work has been done, thanks again !

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Originally Posted by adrianf72

One more thing im curious about, in a dc2 vtir with i/h/e and the ITR gearbox, would tuning with a standalone ecu be required? or maybe a reflash would be sufficient? i was under the assumption that a change in gearing would decrease the performance of the car unless properly tuned, or is tuning only required and beneficial when internal work has been done, thanks again !

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please do some reading on this forum, you'll be amazed with the information you'll find.