Oh yeah - has anyone in an euro installed those LED lights yet?
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Oh yeah - has anyone in an euro installed those LED lights yet?
If by not cold enough you mean not cold at all, yes. compressor seized, not uncommon unfortunately and when it dies it likes to make a mess...Quote:
Originally Posted by sceuro
You're going to need a handful of t10 and festoon 30mm , 2 7watt cree led t20.
And 4 vanity led, check Size first though
Royal purple, people eiter hate it or love it. I haven't used it myself tho. so i cant comment on it.Quote:
Fredroops - had i heard from you sooner I wouldn't have bought myself Castrol Titanium 5W-30 and Narva 120%+ globes...cause looking at the oils i would have gone redline from that performance website, and the injector cleaaner product. Currently I have royal purple in the system, I've used Castrol Edge Sport, RP, Penzoil, Honda FEO Ultra....all good, i tried RP 10W-30 however driving performance felt a bit more numb (remember could be my brain as well)...
Castrol titantium should be fine to use.
Another I'd recommend you to look at is Mobil One High Milage oil (M1HM) gllubricants sell them in sydney.
Narva is repackaged Osram, they're the same thing i rememberedQuote:
Narva 120 Plus lights well they are excellent, i can see easily the side of houses without being directly in front of them, from what i can see the light spread is nearly 180 degrees so if i were driving in the middle of a 4-way highway the lights would spead over 4 lanes, obviously the light is stronger directly in front. White colour light, couldn't see much yellow which is good. The only thing i would say is the distance forward of the light is not as great but far better than the conventional globes. Not sure about HID but this is close. It's bright without being blinding to motorists - I heard Philips/Osram is like having high beems on so i have to try that out! The price you gave me from your power bulb and performancelubes is 48 dollars which is REALLY GOOD. My globes were 78 in supercheap.
Narva/Osram blinds other people as well. just so you know :-)
- There are subtle differences, M1 is my preference since they have a range of M1 products that suits specific applications M1EP for longer drain and cleaning, M1HM for high milage engines, M1ESP for better gas milage.Quote:
I bought the castrol edge titanium 5W-30 for $49.95 at Supercheap so will use it at my 193000 drain interval - 500km left so next week. When i reach early 200,000km's I will switch to Redline OR Mobil 1 Extended Drain and will report the difference. Haven't tried the new titanium one, but i think it's more of a marketing hype.
Not necessarilly, most people use Koni because it's good quality and is adjustable from soft to hard.Quote:
Keni Shocks 150 per shock? how much cost to install them? I struggled with light globes so don't expect me to do it. Also I don't want a sports feel, i want COMFORT, will Koni be hardher in terms of the ride quality? And will they work with existing springs (not willing to change them)...Just want not such a thumping ride.
and they all work with stock springs
You could also have KYB shocks which are OEM grade for about $100 a corner, I think labour is around $250
he dont need 30 litres, a 4x4 only uses 15-16 litres that gives you 95% new fluid.Quote:
Unfortunately, I only have ATF-Z1...and i've only ever drained the system every 20,000km's so the 2.8L's worth. Right now ATF is at higher levels than the second dot on the dipstick so it's good im going to see Southwest Automatics at Liverpool - they said they will drive it around and determine if i require a flush. He said it's $150 for a service of the transmission and $350-400 for a full flush as he'll need 20-30L of genuine oil. I won't do a full flush but let him do a service first then ill follow this 3x3 drain and drive for 10mins in between tactic.
and dont just drive for 10min, you need to engage all gears in that 10 min, you'd find 10 min turns into 15 every time around.
do a fuel injector and throttlebody clean, it may be throttle relatedQuote:
The ECU reset thing seemed to work a bit, my car stopped the revs being so high before a gear change, it seemed to have shifted nicer. But i haven't tackled the mountain drive yet so will let ya know.
a few years back no one had honda atf grade oil hence the "ONLY USE HONDA" sloganQuote:
Ok - as for ATF oil, well, I read on here some use redline, some use Armoil, is the RP stuff good? I also read that NO ONE should use anything except genuine eeven from this popular dude called aarong... if that's the case maybe ill try and use ATF-DW1 but where do i get it? I only bought my trans oil a few months ago and it was still the D1 stuff. I am in the Newcastle region so...
DO you mean DW1? or Z1. Z1's.... not ideal if you dont change it frequently. DW1 is fine.
Now days since the whole honda auto tranny problem came out (I have a thread on this) people started to branch out.
Redline D1 and Amoils multi-vehicle ATF are Honda OEM grade (and better) so you should be fine useing any. Not sure about RP tho.
It's in the service/log book for what to do after the 200k km i thinkQuote:
Oh yeah and after 200,000km's should i restart the log book process again?
Fred saves the days...again
Hi All,
Was wondering if the Mugen looking weathershields from Shift performance will look good on a standard accord euro - everything is standard even the wheels? Does anyone have a pic of a standard euro with weathershields
Done 235,000 KM's.
Just had my power steering pump internal o-ring seal fail (not the hoses that were replaced in the recall, but the actual pump itself) - leaking fluid everywhere. It has since been repaired.
Other things of note (that have been resolved) include door actuator (x2), warped discs, weak AC. Otherwise has been a very trouble-free run for me.
Currently having the issue of rough idling. Cleaned throttle body, may need to look into injector cleaning. Any recommendations?
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Rain-Viso...item3368179b7fQuote:
Originally Posted by sceuro
http://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot...57162266_n.jpg
unless youre on the auseuro fb already
subaru sells magical lubricants that can really clean the throttle body i think but double check with FREDOOPSQuote:
Originally Posted by Cranial
^^^ that's the Subaru upper engine cleaner. Good stuff
Thanks for that, I'll give that a try. Did you empty the entire can, and did you do it through the throttle body whilst revving the engine, or while switched off?Quote:
Originally Posted by Fredoops
Thanks again.
There's actually a few ways you could do it:Quote:
Originally Posted by Cranial
http://offroadsubarus.com/showthread.php?t=3128
Oh btw... Put a Snoop Dogg CD on while doing it... PUFF PUFF PASS