Difference is that f1 brakes are carbon carbon...
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I assume Dread is talking about hairline cracks on the holes,maybe he can confirm?
http://s29.postimg.org/4kvtpwaiv/att...1355351934.jpg
its interdasting though,majority of the big name brake makers use slots or crossdrill
Endless ProjectMu AP etc. etc. so makes you wonder is it marketing or based on r&d results
also I think the main goal is the pad staying within its heat range regardless of rotor design
since youre comparing F1 with honda civics,may as well throw in that nearly all sport bikes use drilled rotors too,even with such a thin disc :p
very true... hmm the more i read the more im inclined to belive it just bling though
Lol not that, usually I have to run off do something else so drop a hint, other times can sit down and type out an answer hehehe :)
BUT yes you all gotta earn the knowledge... :p
Indeed I am! Hairline cracks that start from the holes as very very miniature cracks on the circumference of the hole then stretching across the diameter of the disc then kaput. Its not only Skyline GT-Rs that have this issue, numerous other manufacturers and aftermarket ones have this issue to varying degrees too. To check, just google your brand and cross drilled and cracking to see first if its a common theme, remember to check what conditions they're being used under too. Many people have the combination completely wrong [Underspec'd Disc + Highly Abrasive Pads = Dead Disc] so obviously ignore these ones. Also note the country they're used in, some countries that experience more varied/extreme temp changes to Australia may also have different issues.
Endless, Project Mu, AP, etc. From what I've seen have not had issues when matched up correctly [I've not googled this so don't take my word, only from my own projects and others I've worked on], perhaps a little of marketing, afterall many people [Myself included] love the looks of slots and or cross drilled. They do have disclaimers iirc regarding their use too :)
On a side note, more and more companies are using 'dimple' or a special form of dimple like Endless E-Slits [Which is a combination of Slots and Dimple]. These work in similar fashion as the cross drilled except without drilled all the way through so the disc's integrity remains more intact than being drilled :)
The way I usually select it:
NB - This selection is usually for mild to moderate applications without looking at BBKs, etc.
#1 - Application - Street, Street + Spirited, Semi-Race, Race, etc
#2 - Tyres - With so many cars with ABS/EBC/etc this is a little more obscure but if you're like me and usually don't run ABS then its quite important to match up your tyres and braking power. Locking up because brakes too powerful or inadequate braking technique isn't going to do you any good.
#3 - Pads - Next on the list is pads, this way I know what temperatures and μ the disc can expect.
#4 - Disc - Now I can select the disc, afterall the disc are there to withstand the temperatures and pressures so its best to leave them till last. Select the disc made from material right for your application [Cast to Aircraft Material/Ceramic/Carbon/etc] with the right treatment [Heat Treated, Zinc Coated, etc] and face type [Plain/Blank, Slotted, Cross Drilled, Dimpled, Combination].
I might be making a Tech writeup for brakes, but gotta finish suspension first XD