i had redline D4, had to get it in from AMAZON usa.
now using valvoline maxlife.
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i had redline D4, had to get it in from AMAZON usa.
now using valvoline maxlife.
http://www.performancelub.com/Redline%20pricelist.htm
http://www.gllubricants.com/index.ph...=list&gnfid=21
Both are in Australia.
Like I said, a bit expensive but at $89 a gallon it's a lower price by quite a bit compared to Redline Australia.
When I got mine form amazon it turned out to be $17 a quart shipped, cheaper than local suppliers
Thanks a lot, and just wonder how much litre should I get?Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeCl
http://www.valvoline.com.au/explore-...-synthetic-atfQuote:
Originally Posted by Fredoops
do you mean this one? does 4L enough for change, thanks
Yes that's compatible with ATF Z1 used in the CL9, 4L is enough for a single drain and fillQuote:
Originally Posted by fqyyy
CU2 use a slightly different fluid
great post, thank you
Hey Guys, My 05 AT Lux CL9 has just ticked over 30,000k. It has a full service history and i believe the ATF was changed around 16,000k according to the logbook. Anything besides an Oil/Filter change i should do? Last service was at 22,000K when i bought it.
Cheers
Just what the owners manual suggests
Also
There is an inline transmission filter - ask about part
Just an update for all Manual CL9 owners. The gearbox in the CL9 like the thinner 75w80 oil, and most brands such as Amsoil and Redline as well as OEM is 75W80. If you want smooth gear changes, it's best to stick with this. Recently, I had my gearbox oil changed by OTR Clayton, who use only Motul oil. Now while Motul oil is great, unfortunately they make only 75W90 oil, which is way too thick. The result is the syncros, especially in first and second where there are multiple syncros, don't work as well, resulting in the gearbox not wanting to move out of 1st, or go into 1st or 2nd on a fair few occasions (due to ratios not matching at the point of time). Of course, the argument (by OTR and Motul) would be that the thicker oil provides more 'protection' to the gears and syncros, especially when thrashed or tracked, but for for daily driving, it's more of an annoyance than anything.
Brake fluid is probably one of the most neglected fluid to be changed. Bleeding the fluid is not easy, the fluid is corrosive and the system tend to work for a long time.Quote:
Originally Posted by Fredoops
I am assuming that the problem with brake fluid is the moisture absorbed to the fluid causing corrosion to the brake system.
For the DIYers, would it be better/ easier to test the moisture content of the fluid (say every 2 years)? A tester is about $25 plus shipping.
http://www.amazon.com/Powerbuilt-647...e+fluid+tester
I would personally reduce it to 2 years for brake fluid now days....
PS: I just did a power steering fluid flush following this method:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B4lKhX2rUmw
I had 3 bottles and i think its not quite enough..... you'll want 4 bottles/litres for a complete flush