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Yeah ill check the adjustments when i do the top end seals.
Not alot happened this weekend just pulled and tested fuel sender unit took the thermostat gasket back because it was the wrong one also found my thermostat is a 68oC one instead of the 78oC
Also got my front cam and crank seals
And heres a pic of the engine bay partially disassembled
Got abit done this weekend this included finding and sealing 5 coolant leaks by pressure testing the system i left it pressurised for 2 hours and it only dropped off 1/2 a psi so im happy with that now. Also found several vacuum leaks and opened the FITV and found it wound out all the way so i screwed it back in hopefully itll run and idle alot better now.
Also pulled apart most of the interior and began tidying it up which included removing the horrid stickerbomb wrap.
Hopefully tomorrow i can do the compression test and start it up fingers crossed it runs good and i can get into doing seals and belts etc.
Is the bike yours too?
Yeah, bought that with the intention of getting my bike license and club reging it but ive decided to sell it and put the money into the crx to get it upto spec and club reg that instead
Small update for this week, did the compression test came up good.
cyl1 cyl2 cyl3 cyl4
210 215 215 215
Also ordered a new fuel filter, an inner CV boot and steering rack boot to replace the torn ones.
Pulled the injectors to clean and test them and found the injector in cylinder1 had a cracked tip. Ive seen a few posts of this happening and people saying its fine, but i might check the wreckers for a replacement.
Great find and Good numbers,must be a relief!
If you have any plans to go to Winton,make sure you let me know so I can see if I can get there.I reckon we would be close racing,mad fun :)
B18/20 CRX vs B18cR EKSedan :)
Yeah happy with not having to do a headgasket. Got abit of a list of todo.
Replace rocker cover seal and front oil seals
Replace inner CV boot and steering rack boot
Change leaky P/S hose
Get stock suspension to replace the super lows
Do brake pads/fluid
Get replacement injector and change filter
Change grobt sway link bushes
New tyres
Reseal sump
Incorperate a catch can into the pcv system
Secure the battery
Fix the intake pipe and make a box to cover the pod filter
General oil flush with new oil/filter
Check and adjust valves
Timing belt change
Likely come across more.
Probably wont be taking the crx until next year sometime but i may take the evo out later in the year
The 1:45 time at winton U mentioned before,was that in the evo?
I'm running this air box,love it,it's perfect,takes the normal pod filter.Great design.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Universal...kAAOSw0HVWEPon
https://honda-tech.com/g/picture/7422882
Seafoam is the best stuff.In this ad,there is a great description of how to use.Brilliant product.Do the upper head (clean gunk where valves seat/seal),fuel system AND bottom end!!
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2-x-tins-...4AAOSwt0FZCVj5
What is "front oil seals",crank pulley seal? Is that one leaking,it can tear and dump all the oil...happened to me,then spun a main bearing,bye bye the d16y4.
Messy job changing a cv boot..$200 for 2 new driveshafts off ebay.
Remember to clean and lubricate the sliding pins in the brake calipers,very important so they work properly.A 1" brake booster/mc was all I needed for great braking when I put in the b18c7.Awesome upgrade,plus I don't have the extra weight and rotational weight.
Is the rear main seal leaking? It's normal for it to drop a few drops a day due to always being installed incorrectly.It needs to be flush with the outer mating surface of the block,where as it is normally hit in 2-3mm more so the seal on the inside is up against the block.THAT'S what causes the constant dribble.
Front seals are cam and front main. Ive done a dozen cv boots before i know they are messy but a $16 boot kit vs $200 ill do it myself everytime. Doesnt seem to be any major leak on the rear seal so itll stay until i change the box way later down the track. (Open diff box at the moment) :(
Got abit done this weekend, ended up getting a new pintle cap for the injector so that was fitted and they were put back in.
I removed the battery tray from the car because it was rusty and gross looking so its been sanded and is soaking in some WD40 to break down the left over rust then ill give it a quick coat of black to make it look less crap, I also got a battery clamp so i can fix the battery down now.
I tracked down some stock suspension and pulled the driverside apart and degreased all the grease that had sprayed in the engine bay and wheel well from the split CV boot which must have been like that for a while because when i pulled it out to clean and fit the boots i found alot of metal shavings :/ so hopefully i can get a good 2nd hand one tomorrow from the wrecker.
I also found the LCA bush that holds the strut was stuffed so i ordered some Superpro ones and burned the old one out with a propane torch (so satisfying)
Also have some Nolathane sway link bushes sitting there to go in once it goes back together then ill do the passenger side.
I found the brake pads have enough on them to last a while so thats one less thing i need to worry about.
Sounds Awesome man, ive only just started to build an EK for track work myself. Although im running only a D16.
Had an EVO VII GSR which I ran around winton and managed a 1:38.9 so would be keen to see what your evo does with new tyres.