EF? get a spoon B16A......thats all done and can rav safely till 9000rpm:D
But yeah.....u need to brake the engine up and swap all the cams valve and everythings.......either way is expensive job:o
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EF? get a spoon B16A......thats all done and can rav safely till 9000rpm:D
But yeah.....u need to brake the engine up and swap all the cams valve and everythings.......either way is expensive job:o
ahh ok cool, coz i know power = torque x rpm so the more rpm usually the more power you can extract with the right tuning
obviously strong internals. short stroke. strong valve springs (to avoid valve bounce). cams. good bearings all around......good ecu......like someone mentioned before, well balanced bottom end.....I think the rest is just power. I.e. when the engines reving so high, it's sucking air in so quickly obviously you need an awesome intake setup unless your turbo of course. Just on short stroke you should see the crank on an F1 engine it looks like less than a 60 mm stroke from the pic I saw in this mag (comparo the m5 v10 hits peak at 8250, it's got a 75mm stroke)
rev'n at 10,000 puts soo much strain on the engine... if u're gonna do that, u'll probably need new internals with it
My motor (currently being built) will rev up to 8500, 9000 rpm (hasnt been tested yet) i've got a jdm ecu and new jdm internals bigger fule pump and injectors and bigger oil pump, bigger manafold and throttle body and full port and polish but to make it all 100% you gotta get the motor blue printed which blances and tests everything back to the original specs, as well as that i got a blockguard (got pic but dunno how to insert them here only new) got one of ebay it sits in your block and reinforces the piston sleaves.
you just need to re-balance your crank, change to a H or I beam Conrods, a Type R Oil pump, bosch Fuel pump, Fuel press Reg, 290-330cc injectors, Type R Valves, port and polish your cilinder head (Air flow test) + balance it, change to the B16b cams (or higher spec) + TI retainers + high rated valve springs + adj cam gears...and Power FC...you also might consider a bigger outlet of extractor and a 2.5inch piping catback + spoon N1 moffler...B16 can rev higher than B18's...shorter stroke = less friction = less stress to the engine...hmm..not to forget...your TB to be bored up + intake manifold as well...
is not easy to reach 10k rpm (or more)....needs quite abit of money dude...so..keep it at 9,400rpm...you might save alot more...
pgclee wot about pistons?|
use the JDM or Spoon over size piston will do...or if you want to spend more money, then get Toda, and if you are richer, get Jun (Cosworth piston) or if you are too rich..send the whole car to Cosworth...may be they can help u...hehehe..
high RPM kills engine, even if you manage to get the engine to do that kind or RPM it will need regular rebuilds to keep it doing those rpm. That's why race car engines get rebuilt every race.
I know i had my 20v reving at 9k with aftermarket computer and it needed a rebuild after 1 yr.
have to do a major engine rebuilt
engine rebuild with forgys, new cams, rods, cylinders, injectors, bearings....the whole lot basically + an aftermarket ecu will set u in good stride to rev at least till 9k :D
put a rotor in it :p