instead of getting 2 12" subs get 1 12" type R subs, its always better to have one higher end sub than 2 lower end subs
Printable View
instead of getting 2 12" subs get 1 12" type R subs, its always better to have one higher end sub than 2 lower end subs
sorry to burst your bubble, but if you go ring around and ask you will find that almost all stores offer an installation guarantee for life *providing you are the original owner of the install and the car* :)Quote:
Originally Posted by 2002 TeGgY
I think you'll find ICACHA is implying there's an enormous difference between an install that will work, not damaging anything; and an install done ideally to get the most out of your equipment (ie speakers properly installed, solidly mounted, sound deadening + custom sub box etc)Quote:
Originally Posted by 2002 TeGgY
micka, I wanted him to use his brain in judging who will give him the best install that will make the equipment shine rather than a head ache after hes forked out money and the system doesnt perform to its fullest or even installed correctly as you have stated :)
Thanx a lot dudes, last night i asked around and everyone who had their systems installed by WCR are very happy with their install. so im definately gonna go for the Alpine system. its gettin done on tues. ill tell yous how it went..
are you sure man?? i personally dont think one sub can sound better than two. correct me if im wrong. :DQuote:
Originally Posted by VTECACCORD
From my experience with 2 subs (which isn't much btw), its very loud with pretty unclea bass... I prefer a nice branded 12" or 10" if u cant afford the 12.
It depends what music your into and how loud/clear you like your music. If your after really hard techas/trance, pair of 8-10"s would prob be best, but if your gonna be pumping bassy songs on twin 8/10s id definatly go the single 12"er.
define sounding better?Quote:
Originally Posted by 2002 TeGgY
what is your ultimate goal with the subs?
Have a read of this that I copied and pasted... See if it changes your outlook on subbass :)Quote:
Originally Posted by SiR JDM
TIGHT BASS is sometimes misunderstood...
If your bass is crossed over at a low crossover point the bass from the woofer cannot by itself be TIGHT...
The PERCEPTION OF TIGHTNESS is often governed by how well the other speakers in the car match the levels of the woofers ....
Think about it for a second...
When a drumstick strikes a drum (or even a foot peddle) the initial sound you hear has the tightness of the drum skin or drum surface, which is ACTUALLY HIGHS not lows! The bass that comes with it might be VERY LOW, but what defines the drums tightness is ACTUALLY HIGH FREQUENCY!
Think about this also, or better yet try it yourself, Turn all the amps off except your bass amp and the woofers (only) WILL SOUND MUDDY!
This MUDDYNESS is what woofers DO!
And crossed over like we do in cars MUDDYNESS IS ALL THAT THE WOOFERS CAN DO!
ITS NORMAL!
SO, to make these woofers sound tight, the secret is to make your MIDS and HIGHS mave lots of output just like your woofers do. Then the system makes the woofers SOUND TIGHT!....
Seriously take the TIGHTEST BASS SYSTEM you know and turn off all the amps but the bass amps and I thinkyou will agree with me the bass drivers alone SOUND MUDDY and NOT
TIGHT at alll.....
so basically what your sayin is that to have a nice system you should also have upgraded speakers and an amp for the speakers? if so, then is my system gonna turn out crap?? i only got the factory speakersQuote:
Originally Posted by ICACHA
Q: what does what i quoted about the sound of subbass got to do with speakers?
A: nothing :)
ok so now your saying that your keeping the factory speaker, but the only upgrade your doing is adding a subwoofer or two?
Q: WHY?
A: <insert your answer here> :)
if ur gonna upgrade to subbies, ur more than likely goin to drown out any trebble or midbase produced from the stock speakers. ull just hear base. even the simplest of upgrades to splits or even coax upfront will provide a better difference