you heated your trailling arms !!!!!!!!!!:eek:Quote:
Originally Posted by EG5[KRT]
OMG, Im never getting in your car..
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you heated your trailling arms !!!!!!!!!!:eek:Quote:
Originally Posted by EG5[KRT]
OMG, Im never getting in your car..
rofl @ John....i agree...heated metal is never the same tensile strength methinks ! Good luck and dont drive too fast lol.
Anyway , John - the handbrake cable only needs to be disconnected from the rear of the caliper yeah ( where there is a small clip) and NOT pulled thru the cabin ?
Good...i mgiht DIY this soon.
thats right Ben, from the caliper or the drum.
no need to do it from the cabin
haha no i didnt heat the arm .. i heated the old bush to get the mounting plate out and all the old rubber from the old mount because u need it with the new bushQuote:
Originally Posted by ECU-MAN
this was a urethane bush not a replacement oem one ...
Hi all,
I found the information listed in this thread useful, but I have some points and corrections that may help any one doing this, particularly those with a disc brake rear (EK Civic GLi).
1. There is no need to remove the disc from the hub. Obviously the caliper and handbrake cable have to come off. This is easy. In fact, the whole job is surprisingly simple. PS Tie the caliper to the spring to keep it out of the way while you work - don't leave it dangling by the brake hydraulic hose.
2. Before you remove the arms, make a note of the toe settings. This is the small arm in front of the big bush that you are trying to replace. You will need to get a wheel alignment, but having the old settings is a good place to start when you put everything back together.
3. Make a note of the depth that the old bushes are pushed into the arm. There is no positive stop, so it is up to you to push them in to the correct depth. Alternatively you could pay a suspension shop to push out your old bushes and put in the new ones.
4. A tape measure wheel alignment is more than enough to get you to the wheel alignment place.
5. A workshop manual is found here: http://www.honda.co.uk/car/owner/workshop.html
It will give you torque settings and so on.
6. Wear gloves when you put everything back together as the stone guard can cut you up real good....
7. In dec 2006, I paid about $85 each for the Honda bushes (ouch), and a 4 wheel alignment cost $77. I was quoted $300 labour + parts from a couple of local mechanics and suspension places. At least one place was going to use a hammer to get the old bushes out (which is why I did it myself)
7. I took my time and spent about 2-3 hours on this job.
8. Strangely the car now takes off more smoothly than it used to, and it obviously corners more confidently.
Hope this helps someone.
Regards,
Nick
(1997 Civic GLi)
Noltec bushes with the pivot style centre are $75 each(if you know the right people ;)) and made from urethane...
I need to have all of the front lower arm bushings replaced.. If I supply bushings.. what do you think is reasonable price for labour ?
I tried to replace the oem bushing with some aftermarket eurethane bushing (blue) but it wasnt the right size and it was a complete pain in the ass plus 4 x nervous breakdowns ;) to remove the old one so I am not goin to do this DIY again.. I'd rather do another engine swap !
Remove the front lower control arms yourself, supply arms and new bushes to a mechanic and it should be no more than 45 minutes of effort required.
this was rear trailing arm bushes
anyway another way of doing it was.. another mechanic at work did my other bush..
smack the crap out of the housing that held the bush in.. drilled a gazillion holes in the bush.. hacksawed the rest out.took the support out and put in new bush and pressed bush into old housing..
no the instruction of the "super pro" bush it says to use an oxy to clean the housing of the old bush.. so thats what i did on my left hand rear.. its much faster but damn alot of smoke and deadly fumes.. so try and wear a mask and proper oxy glasses.
but in the end it has a good feel in the rear .. but makes it a bit stiff so on track it gets a bit of understeer... but that was fixed with a bigger rear sway bar.