Amp and Sub in stock Euro audio system

Me three - HU+front splits done at GL Pro, and I'm very happy with their work.

A lot of people seem to have achieved good results by using the LOC. From memory GL Pro sell a 4-ch Stinger LOC which I've heard good things about. The advice I had (before I decided to get a HU instead) was to make sure you get a good LOC, or you'll end up poor sound quality, engine noise, or both.

You can get a single DIN custom mount to replace the centre pocket, also from Stinger, for about $50. Looks great, matches up with the interior nicely.

Good luck!

Stinger LOC's

Peripheral LOC's

Peripheral is what we used as entry level products all the way to full out show cars. Most of the time we didn't use the Stinger LOC's unless it was all we had or the customer wanted it. They tend to be a little more costly as they are more high end and don't come in a cheap model. Peripheral has many levels, from high end to low end and many inbetween.

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Originally Posted by kleung

Me three - HU+front splits done at GL Pro, and I'm very happy with their work.

A lot of people seem to have achieved good results by using the LOC. From memory GL Pro sell a 4-ch Stinger LOC which I've heard good things about. The advice I had (before I decided to get a HU instead) was to make sure you get a good LOC, or you'll end up poor sound quality, engine noise, or both.

You can get a single DIN custom mount to replace the centre pocket, also from Stinger, for about $50. Looks great, matches up with the interior nicely.

Good luck!

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where about I can get a custom mount done?
GL Pro as well?

GL pro sound can source it for you.

GL Pro sound can even do their own custom mount I'm pretty sure.

Yep, definitely GL Pro can get it for you. They are a full service shop, so if you prefer they can make up a custom mount for you. But if all you want to do is fit a HU, this mounting kit does the job nicely, and matches the existing plastics very well.

This is what it looks like installed.

http://www.users.on.net/~kennethleung/OzHonda/Img_1145_small2.jpg

Excuse the rubber mats. :p

Apparently they didn't know about it until I told them. Anthony (the owner) told me that if he had known about that mounting kit earlier he probably would have bought a Euro instead of his current car. :D

Ken

that mount kit looks good. how much is it?
however i got a ques.... if once I installed an aftermarket HU, can I still use my stock headunit at all(not at the same time for sure)

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Originally Posted by kleung

You can get a single DIN custom mount to replace the centre pocket, also from Stinger, for about $50. Looks great, matches up with the interior nicely.

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Whether or not you can still use your factory HU depends on how you install your aftermarket HU. My original HU is still 'active' in that I can choose radio stations, manipulate the CD stacker etc, but it produces no sound because it's not connected to any speakers. The whole unit has to remain powered because it's integrated with the climate control.

I suppose if you really wanted to you could leave say, the rear speakers connected to your factory HU and run your front speakers & sub from your aftermarket HU. Or, you could get a LOC and connect the factory HU output to a line-in on your aftermarket HU, but then the question would be...why? The only reason I can think of is if you wanted to keep using the CD stacker. Some people on here who have replaced their factory HU just use the stacker for CD storage. :)

so you guys do all the wiring yourself? is it hard to reach the wires at all? Any DIY diagram or sth teaching how to remove the panels?

btw, where is GL Pro?

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Originally Posted by Peekay34

Just run it off your front speakers from .

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If the amp and sub are going in the boot them why wouldn't you take the signal from the rear speakers. It would be less hassle to tap into the wires. All you need to do is get power to the amp from the front.

Does anyone have any suggestions for mounting the sub so that it does not hinder the rear seat access to the boot?

TypeG: No, my install was done completely by GL Pro. They are in North Essendon (Keilor Rd), opposite Preston Holden. Look for the purple building. :) Watching the professionals do the install looked easy, but then again if you know what you're doing it probably IS easy.

Hoffy: What about the recessed bit at the corners of the boot near the tail lights? Maybe you could build an enclosure around that? The only problem then I guess is access to the tail light bulbs when they need to be replaced. Or maybe you could mount the sub enclosure to one side of the rear-seat opening so you can still access the other side?

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Originally Posted by Hoffy

If the amp and sub are going in the boot them why wouldn't you take the signal from the rear speakers. It would be less hassle to tap into the wires. All you need to do is get power to the amp from the front.

Does anyone have any suggestions for mounting the sub so that it does not hinder the rear seat access to the boot?

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Because if you want to install a Bass Level COntroller (volume control) you would not run from the back of the car to the front to the back again. Also it gives you a option to fade out your rear 6x9's so you get less rattle.