have i distorted my sump gasket.. or is it ok? [pic]

a day or so
maybe 18 hours

long enough seeming though ppl have success when basically using 0 sealant

could it be that my sump is warped or something
like it seemed as though my gasket was redone in the past.. a lot of red sealant on it..
has a minor dent in it too

but there are a shit load of bolts and the gasket is rubber and the sumpe seemed fine..
bla

How long does it say the sealant will dry on that tube?

Did you degrease both surfaces before sealing it?
I'm guessing there was excess oil on the gasket which may have caused a bad seal.
3.5L of gravity pressure would have easily seeped through if the oil stopped the sealant from making a good bond to both surfaces.

Personally I would use another brand and ensure both surfaces are completely dry.
And maybe place the sump on a flat surface with a torch inside, and check for inconsistancies, then lightly hammer it to make it completely flat.

sump seems fine.. yeah will prob use a different brand..
the selleys seems too kinda smooth for a good seal..


anyone have some recommendations?


+ i am still thinking maybe the crank seal is doing this? possible? and just running along the gasket??
errrrr

i use loctite silicon based.

9ftlbs torque on the pan bolts/nuts. 12.9Nm

Converter

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Originally Posted by Dxs

Do u normally get oil on the timing belt if the crank pulley gasket is leaking?
yes
also there is oily residue around further down the car.. would that just be oil blown there?
yes

might get a new gasket and different gasket sealant and maybe try tinkerbell's technique.. so tink did u put alot of gasket on and on both sides of the gasket?

no hardly any, like lightly buttered toast, very little sealant was squeezed out when i torqued it.

what brand gasket sealant u use too..

no *brand* - just "RTV (room temperature vulcanizing) silicone sealant"

estimate of torque?

"screwdriver tight" is what i used - i.e. i used a 10mm socet on the end of a screwdriver... then a 1/4 turn with 15cm long ring spanner...

and other feedback?

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i would find the exact source of the leak first, then solve it...

ok thanks tink.. i will try your method.. i purchased some new sealant and ordered a new gasket ($$$$ :( ) also gonna wrap my exhaust with heat wrap where the sump is... might help oil temps etc as well

this is ****en pissing me off..

i have tried it once using the honda workshop method... no luck
then i tried a hybrid method and used a lot of sealant... no luck

so took it to the local mech..
he tried it without sealant.. no luck
then he tried it with some 'gasket maker' that is meant for gearboxes or something that he says never fails.. he said it was ok.. i took it for a spin and it is back.. no luck

he said the sump is a little warped.. but it should still be fine..
so now he is going to try and source a new/2nd hand sump for a b16..

do b16a2 sumps fit b16a's? i would presume so.. i have heard b18's being used..


anyone have ideas.. u reckon the mech is incompetent? They said it wasnt the crank seal and the leak is coming from the passenger side..


bla

Quote:

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i would find the exact source of the leak first, then solve it...

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check all engine seals,

check under rocker cover, around the cam gears for signs of oil.
could be a cam seal thats leakin between the block and inner timing cover.

mech says no to cam seal
:/

also anyone know if a b18 sump will fit?

yes but will hang slightly lower