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cheers weq.. i might pm you in the near future..
i will give it a clean tomoz and recheck all the wires..
just wondering if anyone knows if the wire setup is correct how it is.. or has the previous owner modded it as well..
i installed some heat wrap on the header around the sump to make the oil a little cooler hopefully.. hasnt changed anything.. but this is to be expected
Here's a pic of my setup, and no it's not the green thing..that's a sensor. it's the thing that has black wire with a white plug on the end coming from it.. next to the cam end plug.
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d3...c/P1010140.jpg
thanks mate.. so it is the metal cyclinder thing..
i will give it a clean tomoz and see how i go
the wiring looks the same compairing our pics too
removed it today to have a look inside..
and noticed that there is sealant as well as the gasket.. and the gasket looks/is a bit warped/damaged..
so i am guessing it was leaking previously and someone fixed the leak by using sealant.. because i removed the sealant and cleaned it up but it would leak.. so now i used new sealant..
also the mesh was pretty clean so no worries with that
also the metal cyclinder with the hole.. was a little popped up and i could push it down a little.. and there was dry sealing around its edges..
anyone know if i should be able to push it down? and silcone gasket isnt normally needed is it?
i will try to get a new gasket soon and see how i go..
as always a pic:
http://i2.tinypic.com/qqpqq1.jpg
There are another 3x10mm bolts holding it to the head with another gasket in between, take the whole thing off and give it a good cleanout with carby clean, the dry sealing around the edges of the metal cylinder is oil, the metal cylinder should move freely.
Part numbers for the 2 gaskets> 15825-pr3-005, 36172-pr3-005.
cheers mate.. will give this a shot in the near future.. i still have a badish oil leak that is hard to source so it is going to a mech before i finalise this issue..
obviously someone has been tinkering with the switch in the past.. seeming though there isnt supposed to be sealant in there.. so i guess it has had issues before.
also ordered the gasket for a gen3 crx.. see if that fits too
anyway i will post if i have success
ok.. so i believe the switch IS the green thing as i said earlier by looking at an EPC..
does anyone think i need to replace that? any ideas on new cost?
have you considered bypassing it?
explain?Quote:
Originally Posted by EGB16A
well i had a vtec controller.. but i want to keep that out (gets annoying if u accident hit it.. and it is pointless)
so what is the point of the switch if u can bypass it?
the switch (green plug) does not allow VTEC to engage if there is not enough oil pressure.
you MUST check you have correct oil pressure before even considering bypassing it... (get a oil pressure gauge and connect to the back of the block where the OEM oil pressure sensor is)
to TEST the switch - borrow one from a friendly Ozhonda member in your area - any volunteers???
thanks tinkerbell.. just the info i was after
maybe i will get an aftermarket one and see how i go.. fun fun :/
do you know what the oil pressure should be? My bodgy oil pressure guage reads about 50 psi on idle about 60 at mid range and about 80 (from memory) on top end.Quote:
Originally Posted by tinkerbell
is that about right?