after you rest the ecu it is very imortant to start the car with the key, turn off all the electrical items, and let the engine idle till it warms up.
car must learn its own idling load of the altenator.
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after you rest the ecu it is very imortant to start the car with the key, turn off all the electrical items, and let the engine idle till it warms up.
car must learn its own idling load of the altenator.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ECU-MAN
Yeah thats what I thought - 10 minutes seemed too long. 30sec sounds right.
There is an ECU fuse? I thought the backup fuse was the ECU fuse...
@hayashi, you should start/idle the car normally so u dont confuse the ECU. Next time u start the car it may idle at 100rpm lol
yeah the back up fuse is the reset fuse for the ecu,Quote:
Originally Posted by EuroDude
it also has a few other fuses. but its best to use the backup fuse.
phew! Thanks for clearing that up for me! :D I'll know to remove the backup fuse next time instead of unbolting the negative terminal nut all the time.
Cheerz fellaz! Probz (hopefully) solved :D I'll keep it posted on how it goes.
Ok, so i left it overnight, then turned it on by key...had all the electrics off aside from the handbrake light. It sat there idling stone cold for around 8-10 mins, then it sorta shat itself (it went VROOOM VRUM VROOOOM VRUM etc.) so i said: "Shit maybe i need to drive it around for a bit" so i did, and everytime i stepped on the clutch into neutral it does the same sorta stuff. After a short drive on the freeway and onto blackburn road, it seemed to have gotten better (its now idling at 1.35k rpm, which is still too high) but every so often it'll start shitting itself over and over.
So, i don't know what to do now and am really getting worried that i might've damaged something without knowing it.
If anyone has even a single clue on how to fix it, please tell me! :(
Thanks again guys!
I dont know much about ECU's but thinking logically - the way I see it is that the ECU was compensating for something else that was out of tune, and now since u have reset the ECU, it has gone back to learning mode.
So the ECU may just need time to relearn to compensate.
IMO you should look into what else could be causing it such as:
Dirty IACV
Dirty FITV (If its a D series)
Dirty Fuel or Air filter.
Dirty Fuel injectors.
Or maybe even a Tappet adjustment may help.
Ok ok, so i checked all those...now...none of those were dirty...so now i'm convinced its the vtec solenoid. Well its what a mate of mine said when he came over.Quote:
Originally Posted by EuroDude
The tappet adjustment will come later on.
Whats your take on this fellaz??
Cheerz!
Heres and update on whats happened so far. I recently tried cleaning out the IACV (and the vtec solenoid while I was at it) and it proved no results. So I reset the ECU again...this time, the air con compressor is spewing out air from the two hose connection points on the compressor (although the AC isn't even connected). The ac switch inside the car is off, and the heater isn't even on. So i'm like: "WTF is going on now...". I seriously don't know whats happening guys, the car's just acting like a little bitch now.
Idling is still jumping up and down between 1k and 1.5k. I went to the wreckers to get some answers and they're convinced that the IACV is faulty, resulting in the whack idling pattern. Next Tuesday, I'm gonna pick one up and fit it to see whether they're right or not...otherwise, I might just have to buy a new one or remap and tune the current ECU.
I'm outta ideas...hopefully someone can shed some light on this situation...I'm seriously getting fed up.
Oh I just remembered something. When I use to start the car with the remote start, and I'd put the key in and turn it to ignition, the AC would make a whistling/gurgling noise and would stop straight away after the remote start was disengaged. It makes the same noise continuously non-stop now.
Could it have something to do with the whole remote start system since its linked to my ECU?
Thanks fellaz.
I really really doubt the ECU is at fault. If all else fails, get a pro mech to look into what the cause is.
There is a possiblity that when u cleaned the Throttle Body, some gunk may have flowed into who-knows-where and caused problems.
Maybe you should try re-cleaning it, and spray cleaner in the side pipes within the TB.
What TB cleaner did you use? Some can damage sensors, so you should test the functionality of the TB sensors.
ps. When you short the ECU diagnostics connector, do you get any ECU codes?
whistling/gurgling noise? You mean a high pitched squeel noise?Quote:
Originally Posted by hayashi_1986
Maybe the AC belt needs tensioning.
U can do this urself as its not hard to do.
Do u still hear the noise if AC is ON?
Well I'm using the Nulon brand TB cleaner atm. It hasn't damaged any sensors and the car hasn't been throwing CEL's. I'm not sure if it'll happen if I use the ECU test method through the plug lead under the passenger dash, since nothing is showing up on the dash when driving.
I've tried replacing the map sensor with no luck.
I'll keep trying to see what happens.
Thanks
Its not a high pitched squeeling, other it would've been the belt. But the belts fine. It's actually coming from the two small holes where the AC pipes go. It's blowing air out from the two holes and making a seriously f'd up noise.Quote:
Originally Posted by EuroDude
Like i said, it use to make this noise when i turned the key after i use the remote start, but only for a brief moment and it would stop.